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ECUflash First Flashed DSM ECU! (98/99 Flashing FAQ)

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Take the plastic cover off and look at the board revision and number. If it matches the 98/99 revisions and numbers it will probably work. Part number won't tell you much.

Since your non-US its probably more like the evo5/6 ecu which you can still flash but you'll have to use the appropriate rom and definition from an evo or write a def for your ecu.

It's cool having the ability to mod your code. I use 1G Eprom ecu with my 6-bolt and the Ostrich instead of a chip. So I can upload whatever I want on that thing and do whatever I want to with it. Now I can use TunerPro ($30) to tune it and later this year I will move on to speed density and upload the Jackal (freeware).

And all this for $170 (Ostrich price). No extra sensors (except MAP and IAT), no payments for software upgrades and stuff like that...

So I am looking forward to find a way to reflash my friend's ECU when the supercharger is bolted and tune his ride.



I just got the numbers of my old ECU but it is not as the ones above. How can I find if it is H8 compatible?

md36410
e2t68277
je331b153c
 
I just got the numbers of my old ECU but it is not as the ones above. How can I find if it is H8 compatible?

md36410
e2t68277
je331b153c

The 98 and 99 PCB Numbers are:
JE331B156C
JE331B156D

Yours:
JE331B153C

So its probably not compatible with the DSM rom, and trying to flash a DSM rom to it with probably brick it.

If you can find the Evo5/6 PCB#s, you could check against theirs.


H8s will have MH7202F or MH7203F printed on the CPU.
And are in 1998-2000 ecus.
 
Mine says: MH7202F. What are my options?

Is this from a Euro Spec 98-99 DSM?

If you read the rom off the ecu, I could tell you if its compatible.
 
Is this from a Euro Spec 98-99 DSM?

If you read the ROM off the ecu, I could tell you if its compatible.

Yes It was in my '99 Euro Spec Eclipse (actually produced in July 1998).

VIN: MBMND32AXE000020 :)

Unfortunately I don't know if I will be able to read it any time soon. I have to install it on a running DSM.

I think your missing a digit in the part number.

Oops, sorry. I have indeed :) Here is the right one: MD346010
 
From what I have seen, the 2G non-US Eclipse where routed through Japan.
And come with Japanese Labeling, Electronics, and Tail Lights.

I would be impossible to tell which ecu compatibility you have without the rom.

From what I have seen so far there are two groups of 4 cylinder compatible ecus.

JDM(Evo5/6, JDM Lancer, etc)

and

Export(DSM, Mirage, etc.)
[North and South America]


But either way, you could use the DSM or Evo rom, for a boosted application.

(Don't try to flash a rom from one group to the other or it will brick the ecu)
 
So, with that 2.0 tactrix cable, I would also be able to purchase Evoscan and also use the cable for data logging on my laptop? My tuning experince is limited to a Boondocker Control Box on my snowmobile which I think is similar to a SAFC. So, sorry if my questions are newb-ish.
 
Yes, the Openport 2.0 cable works with both ECUFlash for flashing and EVOSCAN for logging.
 
"Think I'm the first person ever to flash a DSM ECU."
English Racing is doing this, its awesome, my 99 GSX is going in for a flash.
Congrats! Look forward to hearing more!

Hey Ana, just curious how much they are charging for that? Will they be doing it on the dyno?
 
I have a fwd and would like to try and take advantage of the 2 step launch control feature. Is there a method where I can use launch control keeping the gas pedel floored and maintain the boost & rpm defined in the "Antilag Ign Retard" & "Antilag Start RPM" boxes until I exceed the speed defined in the "Rev Limit Switch Speed"? Once the "Switch speed" has been exceeded boost pressure goes to the set maximum.

Ultimately what I want is traction, and I think that by controlling the boost and rpm upto a certain mph (say 40 mph), this could be an effective electronic LSD. :hmm:
 
I was trying to figure out some kind of Traction Control for the FWD guys.

Problem is, as soon as your wheels start slipping the ecu thinks your speed is high and you passed the Speed Switch.

Other cars with Traction Control have 4 wheel speed sensors, we just have the one speed sensor on the tranny.



Once I have Boost Control done you could just set boost low in 1st and 2nd gears.


I have a fwd and would like to try and take advantage of the 2 step launch control feature. Is there a method where I can use launch control keeping the gas pedel floored and maintain the boost & rpm defined in the "Antilag Ign Retard" & "Antilag Start RPM" boxes until I exceed the speed defined in the "Rev Limit Switch Speed"? Once the "Switch speed" has been exceeded boost pressure goes to the set maximum.

Ultimately what I want is traction, and I think that by controlling the boost and rpm upto a certain mph (say 40 mph), this could be an effective electronic LSD. :hmm:
 
It is. It made my fwd much less of a handful and a lot more fun to drive. It also allows me to crank up the boost in the middle gears where I'm not flowing as much as the higher gears to keep me moving the most air possible for my fuel setup.
 
I would love to see some video's of how your fwd launches. :rocks:

Aren't you on an Evo 8 ECU? How similar is the coding to the H8?
 
Coding? That has a number of connotations. The code for the ecu is very similar in terms of disassembly which makes it easier to find some things in the H8 code. The tuning is identical except for the names of tables and some of the options. It sounds like the H8 ecu handles boost control differently than the evo8 ecu and therefore Ceddy has to do considerable work to implement a system for controlling boost with BCSs capable of holding greater than stock boost.

You wont get a video of me launching any time soon because the car is stored for the winter. I can launch hard enough to beat other fwds but it isn't crazy. What is much nicer is being able to floor it and knowing that I'm at the edge of traction all the way through second without breaking loose and that I can punch it from a roll and actually take off instead of just making smoke. I still break loose for just a bit when the car shifts to 3rd but its minor and by then I'm going fast enough that it fixes itself.
 
Hopefully this isn't too off topic but I have a wideband question. Is there any way to wire in a wideband sensor in place of one of the narrowband ones and use Evoscan to log the data? I have searched and found little info. If I can't, I have a new LM-1 setup sitting in a car that hasn't moved for 2 years so I can pull that out of there and weld on a bung to my exhaust. I'm just hoping not to have to do that.

Hopefully my 2.0 cable will be here by the weekend so I can start logging! I can't wait!
 
There are two ways to log wideband with evoscan. The first is to use the analog output of your wideband and place it into an input on the ecu then find the conversion formula for your wideband and add that function to evoscan. The second way (my preferred method) works with the AEM UEGO and involves using the digital output and wiring it into a serial cable which you can then plug into your laptop and read with evoscan.
 
EvoScan can log the LM-1s serial output.

This gives a 100% accurate reading since the data is digital, and a faster sample rate.

Some people wire in to the Rear O2 Sensor, but I like the above method a lot more.
 
I was trying to figure out some kind of Traction Control for the FWD guys.

Problem is, as soon as your wheels start slipping the ecu thinks your speed is high and you passed the Speed Switch.

Other cars with Traction Control have 4 wheel speed sensors, we just have the one speed sensor on the tranny.



Once I have Boost Control done you could just set boost low in 1st and 2nd gears.

great :hellyeah: u can try take signal from abs sensors or maybe instal one on rear wheel and 2nd on front wheel :aha: just for traction control.
german cars take signal from abs sensors .
 
I think that will envolve some additional hadrware since ABS has its own ECU and that is not the point...

i think for use abs sensor just for send signal (pulse) smilar like speed sensor , eliminate orginal speed sensor and recalibrate ecu for corect read signal from abs sensor and instal just on rear wheel when front wheels start slipping rpm going up ecu read difference betwen rpm and speed .
 
i think for use abs sensor just for send signal (pulse) smilar like speed sensor , eliminate orginal speed sensor and recalibrate ecu for corect read signal from abs sensor and instal just on rear wheel when front wheels start slipping rpm going up ecu read difference betwen rpm and speed .

The sensor signal goes to the ABS ECU. You will need to run some (maybe 4) wires to some unused pins of the MPI ECU and I am not sure if it will work. Let's see what the masterminds will say :)

Also there are cars hat don't have ABS and they will need to get the rings (~$22 each) and the sensors (~$105 each) which will be a lot of investment :)
 
A few silly questions.

1. In order to increase the boost pressure obtained during anti-lag do we go neg (-) or pos (+)? I'm assuming neg, but at -7 I can't build more than 1-2 psi.

2. I have knock set to 5 counts, but everytime I hit 15 psi the CEL flashes. Is this because of boost limit, or actual knock? I have boost limit set to 250. If it is the boost limit setting, then what does it need to be set to in order to run 20 psi?

I'm using 20550011-mod-V8b1
 
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