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I’m guessing your mfi relay was not engaged with the ecu disconnected.
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- okay so i have tested the mfi relay looks like it comes back good
-12volts to mfi relay thats good
- tested power to injector pack on firewall good 12volts
- ohmed out the actual pack looks like it was also good, swapped it for a known good one same thing
-brand new battery
- i started doing the continuity test on the injector wires but i ran out of time, i do not know which pins exactly the negatives for the injectors go tho, so i could only test the positives right now til i figure that out,

- okay so you told me to test power at the ecu pins with the ignition on (ecu disconnected) for the fuel injectors and that seems to be dead for all of them. now that makes it seem like a wire issue but on all 4 injectors at once?
@justindubois

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- okay so i have tested the mfi relay looks like it comes back good
-12volts to mfi relay thats good
- tested power to injector pack on firewall good 12volts
- ohmed out the actual pack looks like it was also good, swapped it for a known good one same thing
-brand new battery
- i started doing the continuity test on the injector wires but i ran out of time, i do not know which pins exactly the negatives for the injectors go tho, so i could only test the positives right now til i figure that out,

- okay so you told me to test power at the ecu pins with the ignition on (ecu disconnected) for the fuel injectors and that seems to be dead for all of them. now that makes it seem like a wire issue but on all 4 injectors at once?
@justindubois

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OK - good! If you have +power to the injectors, but no +power at the ECU, then you need to check the coils in each injector. The +voltage you read on one of the injector harness pins, then goes through the injector coil and out the other injector harness pin to the ECU. So - if the coils in the injector have continuity - but the pins at the ECU are dead, then that indicates a "trigger" wire break between the injector and the ECU in the harness.

What kind of injectors do you have?
 
OK - good! If you have +power to the injectors, but no +power at the ECU, then you need to check the coils in each injector. The +voltage you read on one of the injector harness pins, then goes through the injector coil and out the other injector harness pin to the ECU. So - if the coils in the injector have continuity - but the pins at the ECU are dead, then that indicates a "trigger" wire break between the injector and the ECU in the harness.What kind of injectors do you have?

i have a set of denso 660’s in there.now i already ohmed out my injectors in my first post about this, the screenshot and denso’s website both were around 2-3ohms
i got 2.1 for 3 and 2.2 for the last one
also will note that my injectors dont tick tick tick.
 
welp bad news and good news, found the problem, bad news gotta dig into the whole damn harness.
in my continuity test on the G/R wire on pin 15 has none
i do tho have continuity on the G/Y wire on pin 2
Y/B to pin 14 i have continuity
G to pin 1 i have no continuity
also if only 2 didnt have continuity why do none of the pins at the ecu have 12volts? shouldnt 2 have volts?

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welp bad news and good news, found the problem, bad news gotta dig into the whole damn harness.
in my continuity test on the G/R wire on pin 15 has none
i do tho have continuity on the G/Y wire on pin 2
Y/B to pin 14 i have continuity
G to pin 1 i have no continuity
also if only 2 didnt have continuity why do none of the pins at the ecu have 12volts? shouldnt 2 have volts?

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Good job digging in with the diag and figuring it out. I'm sorry I am unable to answer why the other don't have voltage. I'm sure someone will chime in and let you know. Sucks, but you're that much closer now!
 
Good job digging in with the diag and figuring it out. I'm sorry I am unable to answer why the other don't have voltage. I'm sure someone will chime in and let you know. Sucks, but you're that much closer now!

hell yeah i appreciate you man! we have a car show called automotion in may 17-19 that im trying to make with this car so actually really bummed its still broke not to much longer gotta get this thing up and running! im going to dig into the harness today
 
and here we go going to rip this thing apart and hopefully i find something quick. hey justin? did you read my last post? do you know why i only have continuty on 2 why dont i have power for the other 2 since they were good in the continuity test?

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well this happened, well after ripping the harness apart i went to plug everything back in and it wouldnt crank, only 10volts to the starter signal wire, hot wired it and it did this.
 


we’ll figure it out, shes back up and running, i think my ignition switch got shorted out from whatever i had to run a new wire from pin 5 on the ignition switch to get it to fire, i only have 10 volts on the oem signal wire for the starter, and now my coolant temp sensor reads 380 degrees in ecmlink
 
Finding a continuity break is progress.
A bummer, but at least you are finding a real issue.
What caused the break? Where was the break? Rodent? Hack Job from previous work?

Sounds like you need to check the coolant sensor wires too
 
Finding a continuity break is progress.
A bummer, but at least you are finding a real issue.
What caused the break? Where was the break? Rodent? Hack Job from previous work?

Sounds like you need to check the coolant sensor wires too

2 wires were pinched together from previous work in the 4th injector harness. ill have to take it more careful with the wiring, going to figure out why it says 380 for coolant temp now 😂🤦🏻‍♂️
 
If your harness is totally dragged, here's one that just came up for sale;
2G Manual/Turbo Engine Harness $200 + shipping and paypal fees* removed from a 2GB 98 GSX, there are no spliced or cut wires and all plugs are intact* Please only message me for this item, if you’re ready to buy this particular item https://www.dsmtuners.com/marketplace/2g-manual-turbo-engine-harness.6886/
 
well nothing is going to stop me, IM GOING TO DRIVE THIS CAR.

didnt want to deal with the short problems in the harness after i finally got it running.
-coolant temp sensor was dead
-02 showed 0.0volts in ecmlink
-car wouldnt start unless i backprobed the ignition with a new signal wire
- my wideband stopped reading its stuck on “sensor”
so i removed the harness, new one should be here tuesday.
also had a weird oil leak coming from the tensioner hopped on some forums bamm bottom bolt needed rtv.
getting everything tidied up for tuesday going to throw the harness in and HOPEFULLY I CAN TAKE IT ON A NICE DRIVE AND DO SOME PULLS
welcome to dsm life 🤝🏼

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Careful with the length of oil pan bolt - the one directly under the timing belt gear is shorter than the others. Its a 6-bolt thing. The 7-bolt's have a valley in the gasket flange to match the 7-bolt front case where this interference was addressed.
 
Careful with the length of oil pan bolt - the one directly under the timing belt gear is shorter than the others. Its a 6-bolt thing. The 7-bolt's have a valley in the gasket flange to match the 7-bolt front case where this interference was addressed.

will check it out when i get to the shop thanks man!
 
new harness got here i immediately got to work as i knew this was going to be pretty long.
i wanted the tucked harness so i
moved the injector box inside
moved the power transistor inside
moved the black and blue connector inside also
i took all the tape and plastic loom off
i got rid of all the connectors i didnt need
i put it in the car to see which connectors i had to shorten or lengthen and it was about all of em 😂
got them all done,
plugged everything in and no ecu light turns on, go thru the ringer of all the testing again and im getting low voltage to the mpi relay and i have the harness all apart so i can check wires easily, test pins test this test that, come to find out i had the harness switch over plug and the auto shift selector switch plugs swapped around 🤦🏻‍♂️
get 12 volts every where i should and still no cel light on acc again, so i ground pin 38 and it works and it runs, i did a continuity test on that wire and it checked out. so am i right to assume one of the drivers in the ecu isnt grounding pin 38?
all the harness grounds are clean and where swapped around no change, after all that i took the harness out banking on its a bad ecu or a mpi relay and i wrapped it up with some nice non plastic shit🤟🏼 hopefully i can get it going so i can tune her now, i also got my oil pressure gauge to work.
when i did have it running i was able to log into ecmlink and all my sensors were working finally 😩😩

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