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Few ?'s About My Laser

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msmytalones

Probationary Member
13
0
Oct 5, 2004
Dunbar, West Virginia
I just picked up my 2nd DSM. It's a 1993 Plymouth Laser 1.8L. Its got 75,200 miles on it. I just want to ask you guys what you think I could do to fix the following problems.

1. It idles around 500 rpm. I was going to try changing the Plugs and wires. Is there anything else I need to do to get the rough idle to go away.

2. When driving the car uphill or under hard acceleration (sp) it sounds like the lifters are ticking. What can I do to the car to get this to go away. When you drive the car normal or at a steady speed on level ground the noise isn't there.

3. It has an auto tranny in it. Sometimes the car will shift very weird. Like going up hill when the rpms get low and it goes to downshift sometimes the car will jerk. Not sure the best way to describe the problem but do you think my tranny is taking a crap on me? Should I try changing out the tranny fluid? If so what kind would you recommend.

Not a bad little car. Only paid $800 for the car. Then had to put a new tire rod end on it, axel, 4 new tires and a state inspection. So far a only got around $1,100 in the car. The body is in great condidtion other than a couple scrapes here and there.

Just please give me opinions on what all I should do to make sure I get the most out of the car as it's my daily driver. When should I change out the timing belt? Those kind of things.

Thanks in advance for the help. Sorry for the long post.

Donovan
 
Try adjusting the idle control screw for you bad idle.

And like bojanglesracing said, replacing the oil should help some with the ticking.
 
Whiplash said:
Try adjusting the idle control screw for you bad idle.

And like bojanglesracing said, replacing the oil should help some with the ticking.


Well the oil was changed like 2 weeks ago. That was the first thing I did when I bought the car. What else could I do to try to get rid of the ticking? What about trying like Lucas Motor Oil or something like that? Any ideas.

Also where is the idle control screw? Can someone show me a picture so I know what I am looking for?

Thanks for the help.

Any idea on the Tranny ?

Donovan
 
bojanglesracing said:
What oil did you put in? And what brand?


I'm not sure man. I just told the shop I normally have change the oil to just change it.

What kind should I use? What brand?

Where can I find the idle control screw?

Thanks,

Donovan
 
msmytalones said:
Well the oil was changed like 2 weeks ago. That was the first thing I did when I bought the car. What else could I do to try to get rid of the ticking?

The lifters might just be dirty. In that case, obviously, the only remedy is to clean them.
 
bojanglesracing said:
I just though you may of used a light weght oil but i would clean the lifters like paul said


What is a good weight oil to use? What brand is a good brand. I used to use Castrol or Valvoline.

I was looking at the TB today. And I noticed that right on top of where you can push the idle under the hood. (I think it is the TB never really messed with it) There was a screw on top and it looked like it had a little spring underneath it. Is that the idle control screw?

Also how do you clean the lifters? Is there any kind of Lube that you can put in the engine to clean them or do you have to pull the valve cover or head not sure which and clean them manually?

Thanks for the imput and all your help.

Donovan
 
Well i run ams oil 20 - 50. it cost little but its good stuff. And they do make stuff to flush your oil right before a change, But i would pull the valve cover and clean them my self if it was me
 
msmytalones said:
I was looking at the TB today. And I noticed that right on top of where you can push the idle under the hood. (I think it is the TB never really messed with it) There was a screw on top and it looked like it had a little spring underneath it. Is that the idle control screw?

Yeah, that's it.
 
msmytalones said:
Also how do you clean the lifters? Is there any kind of Lube that you can put in the engine to clean them or do you have to pull the valve cover or head not sure which and clean them manually?

For the lifters, I'd suggest using "Restore". It come in a little metal can, they have 4 cyl. - 8 cyl. formulas. Obviously, you'll want the 4 cyl. I'd suggest doing that first, it helped me a little with lifter tick. If that doesn't do it, then buy a service manual ( you should have one if you don't anyways ) and read up on how to clean the lifters. It's not too terribly hard, but also not something you want to jump into if you don't know what you're doing.
 
I had the same ticking problem and it only gets louder, for me it was the lash adjusters and its tipical from what I HEAR for them to make the ticking sound, talks about it on www.clubdsm.com I talked to mitsu about they said I had to replace them which may or may not be true I dont know. Try using a mitsu or wix oil filter it seems to help.
 
bojanglesracing said:
Well i run ams oil 20 - 50. it cost little but its good stuff. And they do make stuff to flush your oil right before a change, But i would pull the valve cover and clean them my self if it was me


Cool man thatnks for the help. I figure that the shop just used 10 w 30. So I may have to just buy the oil and change it myself here soon.

What is a good brand of plugs to use on a N/T.
Can someone tell me at what mileage you should have your Timing Belt changed?


Does anyone have any ideas on the Tranny ? I asked?

Thanks,

Donovan
 
SinaiTSi said:
For the lifters, I'd suggest using "Restore". It come in a little metal can, they have 4 cyl. - 8 cyl. formulas. Obviously, you'll want the 4 cyl. I'd suggest doing that first, it helped me a little with lifter tick. If that doesn't do it, then buy a service manual ( you should have one if you don't anyways ) and read up on how to clean the lifters. It's not too terribly hard, but also not something you want to jump into if you don't know what you're doing.


Where can I get a service manual for my car? I would like to get one. Right now I just got the Hayes Manual. How much do they run?

Thanks,

Donovan
 
msmytalones said:
Where can I get a service manual for my car? I would like to get one. Right now I just got the Hayes Manual. How much do they run?

Thanks,

Donovan


Ok got another question. I found the Idle control screw and got the idle in park at around 1000 rpms. However when I put the vehicle in R, D, 2, L the rpms drop down to like 600. How do I fix this? I would like for it to idle around 1000 all the time whether in Park or in gear. Should I go ahead and change out the plugs, wires and maybe even the Distrubitor Cap?

Thanks for the help.

Donovan
 
For your plugs, get NGK. Your timing belt should be changed every 60k miles. As far as your service manual, all I have is a Haynes too and that's all you really need. It's not perfect, and it could be more clear on some things, but it's good. As far as your idle goes, I think I remember my NT doing the same thing, I just raised it enough so that it sat at 1k while it was in drive. I would also recommend that you go ahead and change the distributor cap, wires and plugs while you're at it. Wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and flush the radiator and put new coolant in. Hope that helps.
 
SinaiTSi said:
For your plugs, get NGK. Your timing belt should be changed every 60k miles. As far as your service manual, all I have is a Haynes too and that's all you really need. It's not perfect, and it could be more clear on some things, but it's good. As far as your idle goes, I think I remember my NT doing the same thing, I just raised it enough so that it sat at 1k while it was in drive. I would also recommend that you go ahead and change the distributor cap, wires and plugs while you're at it. Wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and flush the radiator and put new coolant in. Hope that helps.


Hey man...thanks for all the help. How much does it run to get the timing belt changed? Also got another question. The oil was just changed like 2 weeks ago however when the car is warm at idle the oil pressure guage on the dash shows almost on L. Is this normal? Should I get an aftermarket guage? What is a good brand? Where should I get it from? Where can I get a guage pod from?

Thanks,

Donovan
 
msmytalones said:
Hey man...thanks for all the help. How much does it run to get the timing belt changed? Also got another question. The oil was just changed like 2 weeks ago however when the car is warm at idle the oil pressure guage on the dash shows almost on L. Is this normal? Should I get an aftermarket guage? What is a good brand? Where should I get it from? Where can I get a guage pod from?

Thanks,

Donovan

FWIW, I turned the screw (with the spring) that you mentioned till my car was idling @800rpm. That is where my car seemed to be happy at.

You really do not need to pay someone to do your timing belt... The 1.8l is a frigging joke to do one on. It is nowhere near as complicated as the 2.0l is. :thumb:

Once you get everything lined up and the distributor rotor is pointing straight down (with the engine at #1 TDC) you simply drop the rocker shafts back down where they go. I can give you a much better explanation if you need it, This really is an easy job to do.

Fortunately the 1.8l cars are 'non-interference' engines. Even if you get 'off' some the valves are NOT going to smack your pistons. There is no need to be scared to do this job yourself and save those $$$ for other things. If you do do the timing belt yourself you will also be able to clean your lash adjusters yourself easily (I soaked mine in kerosene for a while and then blew them out with air).

Search on some of my posts, I have posted before about oil pressure and the 1.8l timing belts... It may be helpful to you during your project. Sorry that I have NO clue about auto trannies, as I have never owned one before and try to avoid driving a car with one. Gotta love that stick shift! :rocks:

Currently my '90 model (the one with the 1.8l) has 260,000 miles on it and it WILL be taking me to work in the morning... These are very dependable and easy to work on cars. Yours should be getting you around for a while if you take care of it. :cool:

Let me know if I can help any
 
Alright now I got a new problem. The belt sqeaks really bad. Do I just need to change the belt or is there anything else that I need to change. Is the drive belt sqeaking a sign that something else is about to crap out on me.

Thanks for the help.

Donovan
 
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