Fastest DSM with Stock Exhaust

[talonawd94tsi]

I was wondering what is the fastest reported time with stock exhaust. Its not really a big deal just one of them things that I would like to know.

 

[philipkrotch]

my best run was a 13.98@103 with the only bolt on mod being an o2 dump. i had free mods and balance shafts removed, but reagrdless, the only bolt on was an o2 dump. im also FWD.

 

[Phil1320]

My old Laser RS went 14.00@102 with a K&N, 19psi, and a hollow cat, blowing through stock exhaust. Mid 13's are no problem in the AWD's with stock exhaust.


Phil1320

 

[BrnOutKing]

My friend John Dyno'd 516whp with Stock Exhaust (well besides the 3" cut out that opens under WOT)

 

[oldmopwater]

8.65 k&n mbc at 17psi 2g mas 255 fuel pump stock exhaust no gutted cat no dump just the way it came from mitsu

 

[TheTSiGuy]

what is the stock exhaust size on 1g's and 2'gs? 2 inches? 2.25?

 

[Phil1320]

..it is actually around 1 7/8" in alot of places...the HKS system is 2 3/8" the old school dynomax was 2.25"



Phil1320

 

[pneumo]

Stock exhaust is 2" at best. It's pressbent, so it necks down to 1.8" at the bends.

I managed 13.8 with stock exhaust, KN ($40), MBC ($65) at 16 psi, and free mods. Pretty cheap, eh?

Everytime I went WOT the exhaust hissed like high pressure compressed air coming out of a hose.

 

[mitgsx]

Posted by Greg Horn on Midwest Club DSM

As an intro to my level of competence on these subjects let me state the following: I've ran my 92 AWD TSI over 175 times at the track, testing EVERY mod for effectivness. I do ALL of my own work on the car, porting, you name it. For $85 in mods I ran a 14.0@95, for $375 a 13.5@100, and for $1200 STILL on the stock issue 14b turbo I've run a 12.4@110. I think my credentials speak for themselves. Freebies/cheapies: Block the EGR & throttle body coolant lines. this WILL give a much cooler intake charge and lessen detonation. Make a small restrictor to put into the boost control line to the wastegate. I used a natural gas pilot light orifice, in addition to removing the BCS orifice this gave me a steady 17 psi boost without a boost controller. Set your base timing to 8 to 10 degrees. I don't care what anyone else says, it works, I've tested it. The ECU uses that as its reference, and does not always give you enough timing, this will ensure ample advance, and if there is knock, the ecu can roll it back then. Don't do the old cut the air can mod, it lets in too much hot air, rather drill a dozen or so 1/2" holes at the bottom of the can to let in the cooler air, remove the factory snorkle completely and put a 3" flex hose on instead. Remove the fogs lights, sorry folks but it blocks the I/C way too much, then drill a dozen or so 1/2 holes in the back splash guard to let additional air pass through. Next time you change your plugs, get them one step cooler, set gap at .030.

Flush your cooling system and add Water Wetter when refilling along with a 180 thermostat, this will make a huge difference in the head temperatures, reducing knock. If you know how and are able to, port the heck out of the turbine side of the turbo, exhaust mani and O2 housing, don't do more than smooth out the compressor side housing though. Get a test pipe for your cat AND muffler for at the track. Be ready to realize huge spoolup gains, those 2 items are the most restrictive on the stock exhaust. (ps, I ran my 13.5@100 on a totally untouched stock exhaust!) Mod your MAF IF you know how, as well as removing the star silencer, it's a major freebie! If you notice, several of the tips deal with cooler charge & reducing knock, knock will kill the power on these motors as the ECU rolls the timing back. 1/4 mile track tips: Remove all excess weight, spare tire etc. Every 100 pounds is about one tenth in the 1/4 mile. Run with a 1/2 tank of gas, less than a 1/4 tank you may expose the fuel pickup to air, a bad thing.

Let the motor cool! Open the hood, spray your I/C with a spray bottle between rounds. I pull my AC fuse and turn it on, only the fans will run, thus cooling the motor. Set tires to 20 to 23 psi, my 60ft. times on stock tires were 1.72 with 20 psi. Take the right lane if you can. It's easier to see the tree and your tachometer at the same time, as the tach is on the left of the dash, you'll be looking at the tree from that angle. Run 100 octane for 15 psi, 110 for 19 psi, past 19 psi 116 is mandatory for good times. Here's a real secret power adder if you have an upgrade fuel pump and know how to monitor your O2 voltage. Disconnect the BOV, let it vent to outside, get a Chrysler K&N valve cover breather, it fits in the intake side of the BOV hose perfect. This will lean you out, provide way more intake air, and push fuel cut to non existance. One bad side effect, the car will barely idle, but....if you drive it for several minutes the ecu will dial things back in a bit and it will idle somewhat. expect to shave two tenths off with this secret mod alone, it works, I tested it! But as I said you need understanding of monitoring your O2 voltage to minimize leanout risks. Launch tips: The turbo must be lit, bog will cost you dearly, as well as overreving and smoking the clutch! Here's how I get set to run; I do a quick 5500 rpm burnout, not to heat the tires but to heat the clutch, if you have an ACT or Centerforce this will get the disc at its proper working temperature. I then stage as fast as I can, shallow, just tripping the lights. This puts pressure on the other guy to stage too, thus getting the race going sooner keeping the motor cooler. As soon as he stages I bring the rpms up to 5500, at the second to last yellow I very quickly release the clutch and feed it gas, first gear will wind out quick, get ready to hit second by 6500 rpm, third by 6300 and fourth by 6100, unless you're heavily modded, there's very little to be gained shifting at any higher of rpms, and even some loss of power will occur. Speed shift as fast as you can, but let off the gas, bouncing off the rev limiter will cost you more that it will help by trying to keep the boost up by keeping it floored. In fact if you're a little low on boost, you will get a bit more of a push by letting up on the gas when you shift because it always hits higher right after a shift. Plus you will risk less damage to your trans. I know some of this is in general terms, but hey...there's only so much room here to type! Happy boosting.