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Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

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GreddySpyder

20+ Year Contributor
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Oct 21, 2002
Alabama
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
 
80-85 ft-lbs is the normal torque spec that most run. Remember to do it in steps though. First torque the studs to 58ft-lbs ( shop manual ). Then loosen them completely, in order of course. After you have done this, torque them in 4 steps, starting at 20ft-lbs, then 40ft-lbs and so on to 80ft-lbs. The lube is a must also, as it provides accurate torquing of the studs.
 
There is instructions in the box that comes with the studs that says to torque the studs to 65 ft. lbs. if using the molly that they supply and to torque them to either 80 or 90 ft. lbs if using 30W motor oil (not sure).
 
I just got off the phone with ARP a couple day ago, here's what they said:

#1 -- Torque to 65 ft*lbs using the ARP MOLY LUBE (lubrication is key)
-- Torque to 80 ft*lbs using clean 30W OIL (lubrication is key

** This spec is 75% of the yield strength of the stud. The stud, like most fastners, has an elastic region where a pulling force can be applied to it and once released, the stud will spring back to its original length. If you go OVER this region, you will have over-stretched the stud and it will have lost some if not all of its elasticity. You also run the risk of twisting the stud. **

#2 -- Torque the nuts down in the proper order (see DSM Manual) & then fully back them off in order (see DSM Manual) 2-3 times.

#3 -- After you finally get everything torqued down properly, take it out for an easy test drive to warm everything up.

#4 -- Let the engine cool overnight and check that the nuts are still torqued to the proper spec. (Make sure to use the same torque wrench as before)

As a side note, if you are using the ARP Moly Lube, you should torque it down ABSOLUTELY NO MORE than 81 ft*lbs. More than that and you will probably start stretching & twisting stuff.

Hope this helps :thumb:
 
Search doesn't seem to be working right...

I just need to know what to torque the flywheel bolts to on my 6-bolt motor, I am using a alum. fidanza flywheel. Thanks guys.

Scott
 
Well, I am finally getting the engine back together for my 93 awd dd but have run into a slight problem. I am ready to torque the head on the new engine but Im not sure what the torque specs are. Ive researched and found 3 or 4 different specs and not sure which to go by. Does anyone have a factory service manual for a 93-94 that could tell me? I would appreciate any answers I could get because I would love to drop the engine back in tomorrow if possible. Thanks in advance.
 
Depends on the head bolts you are using. If they are the stock ones, I hope you got new stock ones and aren't re-using the old ones. Although, it is possible that the old ones will work, it really isn't worth the risk. If you are going with ARP (suggested), then 85 ft. lbs. is the magic number.
 
92awddsm said:
Does anyone have a factory service manual for a 93-94 that could tell me?


Did you read this part? Just by this statement, you should know I am using oe headbolts. Besides, you are a little late in replying. The engine has been in the car and running now.
 
Just trying to be helpful. Sorry that I didn't research your current status and find out that your car is already running. Sorry for providing a little bit more information than only exactly what you asked for. I mean, what are the chances that someone else might actually read this thread and have ARP headbolts?
 
92awddsm said:
Did you read this part? Just by this statement, you should know I am using oe headbolts. Besides, you are a little late in replying. The engine has been in the car and running now.
Yeah, catbox 95! How dare you?! :mad: You should have read this guys mind!
Man, ya try to help someone out ..... :rolleyes:

Don't let this wanna be flamer bug ya. Just continue to give help and let the attitude be their problem.
MB
 
bullettdsm said:
Yeah, catbox 95! How dare you?! :mad: You should have read this guys mind!
Man, ya try to help someone out ..... :rolleyes:

Don't let this wanna be flamer bug ya. Just continue to give help and let the attitude be their problem.
MB

No one had to read my mind. It was clearly in my post that I need the stock head bolt torque from a factory manual. And if anyone needed the specs on arp studs, they can look at the specs on the paper that came in the box with them.

I just asked a direct clear question over a week ago. I didnt need all the extra useless info that I got.
 
does anyone know how many ft lbs of torque the stock 2g fwd flywheel is suppose to have also the pattern in which your suppose to bolt it down?
 
The flywheel should be tightened down to 100 ft/lbs of torque (98 ft/lbs to be exact, but who's counting?). It's a good idea to put some high-temp loctite on the bolts to keep it in place. When your tightening them, tighten them in a star pattern as you would tighten your lug nuts on your wheels (Finger tight at first, then tighten each one in a star pattern a little at a time making sure not to tighten any one bolt all the way down right away, as that may cause warpage of your flywheel). Good luck :thumb:
 
What is the head bolt torque setting for new OEM bolts? All of my pages in my book got ripped out of my manual and i did a search for a while and could not find it on here. It is on a 1995 Eclipse GST.
Thanks Nick
 
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