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Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

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GreddySpyder

20+ Year Contributor
414
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Oct 21, 2002
Alabama
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
 
Originally posted by tanner261
I'd never recomend a Felpro gasket to any DSMer. I blew one on 18 psi with no knock. One thought was that I had too much timing in the midrange, but I blame it on the gasket being inadequate.

I then replaced the Felpro with a mitsu metal and the only mating surface prep I did was gasket remover and a stack of razor blades. I retorqued the ARPs to their recomended specs and that gasket held for over a year at up to 23 psi on a small 16G. I'm surprized I got away with the gasket sealing without having anything decked or using copper spray. I consider myself lucky.

For my new longblock Buschur recommended a factory mitsu composit gasket, and to never use a Felpro. They claim this is what they use on all their cars, plus it put me at a 9:1 compression ratio. I'm pretty sure they O-ring thier setups too, but that is for high boost (25 psi+) and nitrous. I torqued the ARPs to 80 ft. lbs. with their moly lube and I'm expecting it to hold whatever I throw at it, excluding nitrous. I also don't recommend over-torquing ARP studs <-anyone pay attention to how important it is to use a torque plate while boring cylinders? If your block was bored with a plate, and you torqued down your cylinder head tighter than the machine shop, you just negated the benefits of using the plate.

That is the only info I have seen on the Felpro gasket, but it is just one isolated case for now.

I would recommend a factory Mitsu composite Metal HG. Buscher and others ALL recommend it and they know there shit.:thumb:
 
Originally posted by Black95TSIawd
ok i checked vfaq and i did like 3 or 4 searches all coming out with different numbers. The car will be left stock so i have a felpro headgasket and stock head studs, what should i torque the studs to? [/QUOTE


First off it is very foolish to perform a pretty technical repair/mod without a factory service manual which will have all the necessary information, specs, and sequences. Also I believe that the stock head studs are stretchable on 2G's, I don't know if you are trying to reuse them. I can't emphasize enough to have the proper information before trying such a feat.
 
You torque them all to 14.5 ft.lbs., then give them all a 90 degree turn, then give them all another 90 degree turn.

I should have thought that rather self explanatory.
 
yes it worked out well actually. The car is finally back together. I did exactly as what chilton's said. Torqued everything down to 58 ft lbs in the specific order, then completely loosened all the studs in the reverse order, then torqued them down again to 15 ft lbs, 2 90degree turns and bam it was good to go. Car started up nice, idled kinda ruff but it was a boost leak, got that fixed and bam, good as new. It felt so good to drive it after 2 ####in months of being down.
 
Originally posted by Black95TSIawd
yes it worked out well actually. The car is finally back together. I did exactly as what chilton's said. Torqued everything down to 58 ft lbs in the specific order, then completely loosened all the studs in the reverse order, then torqued them down again to 15 ft lbs, 2 90degree turns and bam it was good to go. Car started up nice, idled kinda ruff but it was a boost leak, got that fixed and bam, good as new. It felt so good to drive it after 2 ####in months of being down.

Awesome! Now go kick some butt :cool: :thumb:
 
Originally posted by 98TsiAWD
But the manual says "90 degree turns", plural. so it makes no sense.

So did mine when I did it. Then again, I'm used to torqueing heads to 650 ft. lbs. at work.
 
Originally posted by 98TsiAWD
But the manual says "90 degree turns", plural. so it makes no sense.



ya this means you torque each stud 3 times. first at 15 ft lbs., then i made two marks, one on the stud head and one on the head, a quarter of a full turn of the wratchet on each stud in the correct order then back again another quarter turn, in the end, the 2 marks show be on the opposite sides or 180 degrees from each other. i have no clue how many foot pounds that is though. each quarter turn is 90 degrees.
 
I am installing an SCE copper head gasket on my 98 eclipse GST with ARP head studs. I was told to torque studs to 65 ft. lbs and to not exceed 70 ft. lbs. Are thes torque specs about right? Has any anbody ever used a copper head gasket?
 
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