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Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

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GreddySpyder

20+ Year Contributor
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Oct 21, 2002
Alabama
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
 
Sorry to hi-jack the thread...where can one get a manual with all the torque specs and what not?
 
Originally posted by Rogue_Ant
Are you using ARP lube or motor oil, because ARP gave me two different torque specs.

Rogue

I used the ARP lube that came with the kit
 
Either one is fine. I use a air gun to put mine on with the 3rd setting till the damn bolts are nice and snug. Just make sure you don't tighten it down at that setting the first time. Personally its gonna take alot of arm strenth to get it that tight so good luck. Use a start pattern tightening each bolt down a litlle at a time.
 
Call ARP at 800-826-3045 or 805.339.2200 and they will be able to give you the exact torque.
and I agree with what 4wd-Eclipse did. Use a step up set of torque so there is a more even torque load. Also you should retorque the head as he did. But ARP told me that you don't have to break the car in, you can just let the car run until it has competely warmed up (fan turned on a few times), then let it cool down completely, like overnight, then you can retorque the head.
 
Two things, for the archives:

ALWAYS use ARP moly lube. Oil isn't nearly as good a lubricant, so you will get the wrong torque numbers, and they can be inconsistient.

Whatever your final torque is, you want to toruq the head down in STEPS. If you're going for 90 ft-lbs, I would do something like 20-50-70-90.
 
If I were you, I would never use an air gun when torque figures are important. Mistu engineers stated a torque figure for a reason and those should be followed, especially on something as important as a flywheel.
 
Agreed. If your going to be doing any engine work on your car, then invest in a torque wrench. Using an air wrench on something critical like a flywheel bolt is not a smart idea.
 
Alright then I assume none of you have torqued down 140 NM of torque. Pretty tight stuff. I've done about 8 clutch change outs and used airguns on everyone of them. The bolts are grade 10 bolts which are pretty hard to twist off with an air gun, nearly impossible with 80lbs of air on a #3 setting. Torque specs are important but to someone assembling something that can't hold the counter force you don't have a choice. I'm not saying its right, but it does get the job done with out much effort. I know a car on stands with the tranny out and the motor being held by one engine mount in the bay won't react to well to alot of jerking on the flywheel, its pretty scary thats why I switched to an air gun. When I did my 2 new motors and they were on the hoist I had to use an air gun for the flywheel. Give me a situation where the wrench can be used with that much force with out some kind of counter action either from the car or item holding the motor and I'll change my ways. Till then hand me the air gun please.

I'm speaking from pure experience guys. I always use torque specs on super important items such as engine internals but a flywheel needs to be bolted down tight and an airgun will do the job fine. I own four torque wrenches and I use them when I can. I'm sure most of you will nod your head and give me the :thumbdown but wait till your in that situation as described above you'll be like damn I wish I had an air gun. I'm out.
 
Well, I just did my flywheel with a 1/2 drive torque wrench with my friend locking out the crank on the other side. I weigh 130 pounds and am anything from a hulk. I managed fine though without jerking. Sorry.
 
Right on man, you had a lockout tool I don't. I'm not looking to get into a pissing match about it. I guess I should have said the right thing instead of giving the half ass answer and the route I took. I'm done with this discussion.
 
Originally posted by Cablefed
Right on man, you had a lockout tool I don't. I'm not looking to get into a pissing match about it. I guess I should have said the right thing instead of giving the half ass answer and the route I took. I'm done with this discussion.

"lockout tool"? Its just a 1/2" drive socket wrench with extension on the other side. Nothing fancy:confused:
 
Ya you dont have to be a Unhuman to be able to put some muscle into them :) Thats why the torque wrench is long, for leverage ;)
 
Originally posted by Cablefed
Right on man, you had a lockout tool I don't. I'm not looking to get into a pissing match about it. I guess I should have said the right thing instead of giving the half ass answer and the route I took. I'm done with this discussion.

It's not too hard to have someone stick a screwdriver in somewhere to hold it in place.
 
Originally posted by kpt4321
Two things, for the archives:

ALWAYS use ARP moly lube. Oil isn't nearly as good a lubricant, so you will get the wrong torque numbers, and they can be inconsistient.

Whatever your final torque is, you want to toruq the head down in STEPS. If you're going for 90 ft-lbs, I would do something like 20-50-70-90.

Agreed!!! :thumb:
:dsm:
 
ARP Moly lube or can it be any moly lube??? i mean all moly lube is assembly lube, i have some but it isnt ARP. Also will Advance Carry Arp Lube?????
 
Straight From Chilton


a. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 58ft . lbs
b. Loosen the bolts completely in the reverse order.
c. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 15ft lbs.
d. Make a pintmark on the bolthead and on the cylinder head at
the same spot.Tighten the bolt 90dgrs from the mark.
e. Tighten the bolt an additional 90dgrs so the mark on the bolt is on
opposite side of the mark on the cylinder head.
 
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