1G Fan size help.. my coolant temp is out of control

[enriquez2000]

I dont have an fmic yet.. i have a koyo radiator with some 13" slim fan that was given to me with it.. no idea what cfm its pulling.i still have the ac fan in place so it comes on in an emergency as intended.

I drove home 2 nights ago(97* out) and check engine started going on and off after i got into atop and go traffic. Plugged in lap top and coolant temps were 240. My gauge in car never moved beyond halfway so since i needed to replace it i went ahead and got a new thermostat to put in while coolant was drained.

Well today it was 85... had laptop on the whole drive to monitor. Temps got to 223 once i hit stop and go again.

At this point i feel the fan isnt pulling enough so im wondering what i should get...

There is a 1710 cfm 13" spal, but that leaves little room for a second fan. I saw some 12" spal that are 1200cfm i think. 2 of thise would net me 2400cfm.

Ive heard bad things about the mishimoto kit with shroud but no personal experience.

Basically i want to buy only once and not do the trial and error thing so im looking for solid input. Ideally id like temps no higher than 205 after the fmic goes in. But definitely 240 with no fmic is bad news already.

 

[motomattx]

90 degrees yesterday in NYC. in rush hour stop and go traffic,temperature fluctuated 192 to 203 degrees. This car used to run into the 220's before not anymore. Shes doing well since I did the mods to the front bumper,undertray and ducting. Oh I have my thermostat as well. Car warms up faster ,no waste of fuel nor time for the condensation in the motor to hang around. No fear of thermostat going bad in my case. Out of ALL the cars I have had 3 DSMs,AMG C55,2 BMW M3s all have had thermostats and no overheating issues. Warped heads never a concern. German cars run hot as well.

Your right there! some of the German cars run stupid hot, emissions reasons obviously and they eat head gaskets and crack heads because of it (at least the Audi/VW does), I have several of those as well and the 1.8t in the Audi/VW was super reliable until they started running 230* temps on that engine as "normal" rather than the 190* the engine was originally designed for, the only time I have replaced a 1.8t head for cracking is on the B6 version where it runs stupid hot, the older ones never had a problem, needless to say my personal B6's after replacing the heads never run at 230* ever again I go back to the cooler running setup from the older engine and no problems.

 

[enriquez2000]

One more question.. the 2 fans im going to put in are 20amps each... if i use a 40 amp relay and wire an inline 40amp fuse using 8gauge wire wpuld i be ok running them together or should i use 2x 20amp relays and 2 fuses?

 

[ceedawg]

One more question.. the 2 fans im going to put in are 20amps each... if i use a 40 amp relay and wire an inline 40amp fuse using 8gauge wire wpuld i be ok running them together or should i use
2x 20amp relays and 2 fuses?

I have not changed my wires for the two spals. But wire upgrading would not hurt.

 

[enriquez2000]

The 2 fans

I have not changed my wires for the two spals. But wire upgrading would not hurt.

The 2 fans are 20amp each so wasnt sure stock wires wpuld handle that. Figured a relay couldnt hurt.

 

[enriquez2000]

Oh and update... with ac fan wired to run with the slim fan ill get to 216 even on a 95* day like today. Thats 24* less than without it. Also there is a huge gap with the koyo radiator and stock ac so if its all snugged up my temps should be in check

 

[ceedawg]

Oh and update... with ac fan wired to run with the slim fan ill get to 216 even on a 95* day like today. Thats 24* less than without it. Also there is a huge gap with the koyo radiator and stock ac so if its all snugged up my temps should be in check

216 is still too high!! 240 degrees you'd be at head warp level. You should be looking to stay under 210 degrrees or lower,
Look at the ducting threads man or just build yourself an undertray which is very easy.. And yes sealing the gaps between the ac and radiator will help.

 

[enriquez2000]

216 is still too high!! 240 degrees you'd be at head warp level. You should be looking to stay under 210 degrrees or lower,
Look at the ducting threads man or just build yourself an undertray which is very easy.. And yes sealing the gaps between the ac and radiator will help.

I know im not good yet, but the fact i was able to decrease temps that much means its a fan issue... with the 2 fans im getting they will move over 3300 cfm of air and not have the gaps i do now.

 

[Mishimoto]

Hello

Thank you all for the post.

We have plenty of fan options both vehicle specific and universal. We also have an adjustable fan controller kit that allows you to determine when you would prefer to have the fans turn on. For any additional questions, please contact us directly.

 

[enriquez2000]

Fans installed. Hasnt gone over 213 yet in stop and go. Oddly the fans kick on around 206 to 210... i can tell because the volts drop from 13.9 to 12.5 when they kick on..

Shouldnt the fan sensor in radiator kick on sooner?

 

[ceedawg]

Fans installed. Hasnt gone over 213 yet in stop and go. Oddly the fans kick on around 206 to 210... i can tell because the volts drop from 13.9 to 12.5 when they kick on..

Shouldnt the fan sensor in radiator kick on sooner?

Fan temps stop and go traffic consistently stay under 190 degrees and lower on my car in 98 degree weather with high humidity..

 

[enriquez2000]

Fan temps stop and go traffic consistently stay under 190 degrees and lower on my car in 98 degree weather with high humidity..

I think the fact my fan doesnt kick on til higher temps is part of the problem. Just put a 90amp alternator in so i may try using ac button to turn them on at 190 and see what happens.

 

[EGLTAWLN]

I moved the radiator mounted temperature sensor(the one at the bottom of the rad) to the lower thermostat housing and it threaded into the emissions thermo/vaccum switch hole. This made my rad fan switch on at 91 and switch off at 88.
What this does is it puts the sensor in a hotter part of the system(on the head) vs the stock location which is in the coolest part of the system(post-rad). This makes the fans turn on sooner because the sensor gets hot sooner.
It also frees up the ecmlink outputs for something else.

 

[enriquez2000]

i moved the radiator mounted temperature sensor(the one at the bottom of the rad) to the thermostat housing and it threaded into the lower thermo/vaccum switch hole. this made my rad fan switch on at 91 and switch off at 88.
what this does is puts the sensor in a hotter part of the engine(on the head) vs the stock location which is in the coolest part of the system. this makes the fans turn on sooner because the sensor gets hot sooner.
it also frees up the ecmlink outputs for something else.

Actually a really good idea

 

[enriquez2000]

Update... new thermo sensor and temps never went over 203 on this 100* day... coming on way earlier now and still on when 193 temps... very happy.