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extractor broke in cambearing cap bolt need help!

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Brian O Conner

15+ Year Contributor
333
35
May 8, 2011
Sheridan, Indiana
Well, I done it this time. I really need you guys more than ever now. After trying to tighten down the cambearing cap bolts(the 10mm ones) on the 420a(4g63 guys can relate to this I need everybody!) I some how broke the 10mm socket. Then I got another one , problem was the bolt was stripped. Then I drilled a hole in the bolt and put an extractor in it. Then it snapped, not only that but I got metal dust on the left part of the valvetrain(I tried to cover it but it did not work). Now, I am having trouble trying to drill a new hole were the extractor was at. I am guessing it is a stronger grade of metal than the drills I got. Is there any tricks with extractors? Any ideas for trying to take this bolt out another way? Also, if I clean and blow out as much of the metal dust shavings out of the valve train till I cant see any more and during breakin period I change the oil periodically within the first 100 miles(5 different times) will that work? Last but not least is my best bet to take this to the automotive machine shop that I take my engine to?

Guys I appreciate the help through all of this time any advice what so ever would be helpful, Man I am so nervous:hmm: thank you guys.
 
I have broken an extractor in the hole of a tough bolt... turns out the extractor I used was too small, basically you want to drill the largest diamater hole in the bolt without damaging the threads, and use the largest extractor possible... The kind I recommend are tapered and square with sharp corners, you hammer the bit into the hole, the corners lodge into the bolt and you can use a wrench on the bit. The hardware store generic bolt extractors are shit (the kind that look like a reverse screw).

Your best bet is to extract the extractor, start fresh with a larger hole and better quality extractor. use a hard metal. One possible way to do this is to grind away the tip of the bolt around the extractor so you can get a vise grip on it, and reverse it out. Since most extractors are tapered, if you grind away the head of the bolt, the extractor has no contact with the bolt deeper down so it might even fall right out. Has worked for me in the past. A dremal is a good tool for this.

Absolutely don't get metal shavings in ANY part of the engine, cover everything!

Good Luck!
 
Yeah I already got metal dust(smaller than sand size shavings in there). As for taking out the bolt would a flame torch be bad for that aluminum head? So dont use a flame torch or can i use one still? Guys I am really nervous as standing.

I am going to blow the shavings out and have me and my brother clean up the valve train as much as possible and during the first 30 seconds of starting up my car I am going to change the oil and filter. Then restart it and go to a higher rpm than idle than change the oil and filter again. Then rev up higher and etc a following three times. Then during the 500 mile NT break in I am going to change the oil about 2-3 times more to get any thing that me and my brother did not get.
 
So by your fist post, the bolt still has the head on it intact but stripped?
Why not try some sprial/twist sockets to get it out & replace the bolt?

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Alot of shops will not work on a broken bolt with a broken EZ-out or Drill bit lodged in it.
The one that will charge by the hour by shop rate$50-$100+ an Hr.

If the "head gripper" sockets do not work, you may try grinding the head of the bolt off, remove the cam cap, then try to remove the shaft of the bolt.

The cam cap bolts are a 10mm head, but the shaft is a 6mm X 1.0mm
 
Get a small punch and a hammer. You will be able to break the broken part into pieces if you put the punch against it and hit with the hammer. That is about the only way to get those out. You can't just grab on to it with a pair of vice grips? Either than or you can just drill the head of the bolt off, slide the cap off and the rest of the bolt will come out easy.
 
Snap on sells a set of left hand drive cobolt drill bits that can that can drill through the easy out but if you still have the head you should go with the above socket set and do not heat the head
 
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