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extra vacuum line, cant find where it is needs to be!

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eclipsebandit

Probationary Member
19
0
Oct 5, 2007
Avant, Oklahoma
Ok, im almost done with getting my car back together after 4 years and have had alot of rocky places but have managed to find the answers in the manual! Unfortunatly I cannot find where the big vacuum line goes from the Purge control valve. this is on a 91 eclipse gsx with federal/canada emissions. Any help would greatly be apreciated. :confused:
 
Ok, so I got the motor installed back in the car, its a 4g63t gsx. Finely figured out all the vacuum lines and got the car running, now it’s time for break in. When I pulled the car out of the garage and started driving it I found that under acceleration the car will fall on her face. I have the actuator d/c where I won’t run much boost while I break in the motor but I cannot push on the gas at all or it will almost stall out, but it won’t die! I can accelerate very slowly but I can’t get over 4k rpms at all!! Mabie some bad gas left in the tank or a bad coil pack?? Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks :confused:
 
4 years a long time sitting, definitely drain the tank and fill it up with some premium fuel and replace the fuel filter. Then the first thing is always a boost leak test. Otherwise from the little info that you've given us it could be anything.

Purge control valve... Sounds kind of like the Blow off valve or maybe EGR? I am not sure what the purge valve is. Where is this located in the engine bay?

The Purge Control Valve is not the Blow Off Valve. It is part of the emissions system. It is mounted under the battery, between the charcoal canister and the intake manifold. It is controlled by the Purge Control Solenoid which is part of the solenoid pack (including the Purge Control Solenoid, the Fuel Pressure Solenoid, and on all 1994 cars and any year California cars, the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Solenoid) mounted on the firewall just above the brake master cylinder. Together the solenoid and valve control the release of fuel vapors from the charcoal canister into the intake manifold during certain driving conditions.

Here is the Purge Control Valve showing is installed location:
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This link has a picture along with more info on the solenoid pack: http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/solenoids.htm

It is also shown on the vacuum diagram that knochgoon24 posted:
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Off topic but I hope it helps anyway. OP, update us when you have some new, clean fuel and a new filter.
 

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Ok, I have new gas put in the car, new fuel filter, timing has been checked. BLT has been done. The intercooler was crushed so i put a new intercooler on and redone a BLT and every thing checks out. The car still looses power around 3500 rps, i took it out on the highway and got it up to 60 in 5th gear but would not exceed 60. I had someone tell me the injectors could be cloged so i pulled the fuel rail and bumped the key to watch the injectors spray and it was very attomized and would spit a little bit when i let off the key. they dont look like the pictures of what you see injectors spraying like when they are clean, so could the injectors be clogged really bad to where when i push on the gas the ecu cant get enough gas to mix with the air and thats why it bogs down??:confused::confused:

the list of my mods is on my profile
 
Bad MAF?

Edit:
If your running stock fuel with those cams and stroker your probably not getting anywhere near enough fuel. Your going definently max stock fuel with that setup. If you had dirty/clogged injectors, a bad maf, the stock 1g maf, and no fuel tuning then thats probably where your issue is.

Also check base timing. And if your still running the stock intercooler on a 2.3 stroker with a b16g thats another chokepoint in the system. You are probably heat soaking the stock intercooler.

But if its stalling and nearly dieing as soon as you put your foot down, thats a bad maf/bad injectors. Point blank period your not getting enough fuel.

so in short based on your mods list :
Rewire and upgrade fuel pump to 190 lph
FMIC or bigger SMIC
New injectors
SAFC or some form of fuel tuning.
 
i have the actuater unhooked from the turbo because im still trying to break in the motor. i just installed the motor in may and have not been able to drive it because of this problem. So another question is how can i check the maf? and i have a 255 fuel pump but i havent put it on yet because i dont have a way to regulate the fuel so i havent got new injectors yet either. i was wanting to break in the motor before i throw alot more things on it and do it slow so when i do have a problem i wont have such a big elimination problem. im wanting to go with dsmlink and prob 100cc injectors with a gm maf and eventually a 20g turbo.
 
i have the actuater unhooked from the turbo because im still trying to break in the motor. i just installed the motor in may and have not been able to drive it because of this problem. So another question is how can i check the maf? and i have a 255 fuel pump but i havent put it on yet because i dont have a way to regulate the fuel so i havent got new injectors yet either. i was wanting to break in the motor before i throw alot more things on it and do it slow so when i do have a problem i wont have such a big elimination problem. im wanting to go with dsmlink and prob 100cc injectors with a gm maf and eventually a 20g turbo.

I would hook the turbo waste gate actuator back up. The vacuum on decel will really seat the rings very nicely.

Just don't stomp on it, get it up to speed using steady acceleration, then coast down to 25-30, then steady accel to 60, repeat.

Easiest way to check a maf is to switch it with another one. Any check engine codes?

But your symptons describe to me classic vacuum/boost leak and/or bad MAF. A car will idle fine with a bad MAF, but it won't really make any power, and doesnt want to go at all.
 
no check engine codes comin on, ill check with a buddy and see if i can borrow his maf and see if that does ne thing too. everyone has told me boost leak test and i have been and the only one i could find was the intercooler and i have a new one now but that didnt really help any thing. i wish i knew someone that lived around here close that new these cars that could help me with it. i dont have a lot of money to go and buy new things all at once, i have been building this car for the past 5 years and just now got the motor back in it! im ready to do some driving in it
 
Ok, I have new gas put in the car, new fuel filter, timing has been checked. BLT has been done. The intercooler was crushed so i put a new intercooler on and redone a BLT and every thing checks out. The car still looses power around 3500 rps, i took it out on the highway and got it up to 60 in 5th gear but would not exceed 60. I had someone tell me the injectors could be cloged so i pulled the fuel rail and bumped the key to watch the injectors spray and it was very attomized and would spit a little bit when i let off the key. they dont look like the pictures of what you see injectors spraying like when they are clean, so could the injectors be clogged really bad to where when i push on the gas the ecu cant get enough gas to mix with the air and thats why it bogs down??:confused::confused:

the list of my mods is on my profile

Fuel Injector Clinic will clean and flow test injectors for $20 an injector. Or if you are using the stock 450's you can get another set for pretty cheap. I know I recently sold a set for cheap.

What kind of plugs and wires are you using? Make sure you have a good set of stock NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at .28. A new set is less then $15. Also make sure you coil pack is firing on all 4 cylinders.

You said that you have the wastegate unhooked. I don't know why but unless it is plugged, that is a boost leak in and of itself. I would hook that back up, just accelerate slowly and stay out of the boost for the first 1,000 miles.

It definitely could be a bad MAS, let us know after you switch with your buddy.
 
Fuel Injector Clinic will clean and flow test injectors for $20 an injector. Or if you are using the stock 450's you can get another set for pretty cheap. I know I recently sold a set for cheap.

What kind of plugs and wires are you using? Make sure you have a good set of stock NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at .28. A new set is less then $15. Also make sure you coil pack is firing on all 4 cylinders.

You said that you have the wastegate unhooked. I don't know why but unless it is plugged, that is a boost leak in and of itself. I would hook that back up, just accelerate slowly and stay out of the boost for the first 1,000 miles.

It definitely could be a bad MAS, let us know after you switch with your buddy.

its gong to be about a week before i can check the MAS but i had the injectors checked and 2 of the injectors are bad, they leak without being pluged into the harness, i have brand new plugs and wires and checked the coil pack and all of that checks out good. so would 2 bad injectors make the car fall on her face around 3500 rpms? or should i keep checking more stuff? i dont remember smelling a rich mixture of gas when drivng and wouldnt the injectors staying open like that make the car flood and idle like crap?:confused:
 
ok, so my whole problem was the ecu! I cleaned the injectors and got everything filter wise replaced and the car runs awsome, now its time for breaking in the motor!! thanks for all of you alls advice!
 
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