Explain this.

[BlackMount]

O.k my DSM is still having issues, and I wasn't going to post about it for awhile about it and just try to fix it myself. until tonight...Coming home from local car meet I was accelerating from a stop sign and all the sudden...The car just came alive on me and tire spin like no ones business....it went all the way up to 5k RPM's so I shifted 2nd...Spin still shifted to 3rd @ 5k again...spun a little still. (Keep in mind it was very wet + slick out that's why so much tirespin.) Then came to a stop light all excited I was going to try and see if it would do it again, and when it turned green it just did what it usually does.....

usually what my car does regardless if I'm at 1\4 throttle, 1\2 throttle or Full WOT. Is it will accel...then slugs down but boost builds rapidly but lacks power, and about 2.5-3k rpm's right about to take off, and it cut's\Misses...Sometimes it sounds like a miss but will not go higher then X rpm's no matter how hard I try, and other times It's just a Massive Jerk like hitting a rock wall.

Someone Explain why my car worked perfectly for 30 seconds?

Things Done trying to fix this.

Replaced:
*MAF
*ECU
*O2
*Cam-AS
*Spark Plugs
*Coil Packs

Did This:
*Re-did timing twice. it's dead on now, I've checked it 3 times today now.
*Played with the CAS and it doesn't do much. if I retard it all the way, the idle drops down and sometimes dies from getting to low.

I know I've posted alot about this same problem but I need your guy's help. This is what the forums are for are they not?

Post Video of what Happens later tonight....

 

[BlackMount]

looks like as boost leak with your stock guage pegging around 2k rpm. do you have a mech guage as that would be helpful in diagnosing this concern (stock guage is a calculation of airflow through the maf so if the stock guage is high the mech is low you have a boost leak and need to do a blt).

i had a co worker that had about the same problem his would run great till it warmed up then he would have the same problem. he had a bad ecu (leaking caps)


but since yours is so intermittent check all your wiring connectors on your maf and ecu for corrosion or pushed out terminals.

deffinantly do a blt and check the wiring for damage and positive engagement

My Aftermarket Gauge Usually Reads about 5-10psi by the time It starts to cut.

 

[KKneipper]

When you get your new plug wires, make sure you have them hooked up to the right cylinders. You may have them hooked up wrong now, but I'm guessing that it's just something as simple as bad plug wires. I had the same problem, and never had the wires arc. But replaced the wires and that fixed the problem right away.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

[BlackMount]

When you get your new plug wires, make sure you have them hooked up to the right cylinders. You may have them hooked up wrong now, but I'm guessing that it's just something as simple as bad plug wires. I had the same problem, and never had the wires arc. But replaced the wires and that fixed the problem right away.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Plug wires are hooked up right. I've triple checked my Manual. and It runs on all 4 cylinders. The car is running better, more often now. I can finally pull through the gears with out getting fuel cut...when I do a pull, I get a little quick cut then it accels right back again.

I tried wrapping my Wires with Electrical Type because I heard of someone doing that before to prevent or at least help cut back any leaking spark. didn't seem to make much of a difference, but then again. Maybe it did.

I'm picking up some regular OEM ones for free tomorrow So I will try those.

 

[ColonelOdem]

My car did the exact same thing, one minute it ran like the wind, another (but most of the time) it fell on it's face under boost. This problem happened after going through a HUGE water puddle (a flooded intersection). it would kill over at around 6000 rpm, but some times did the exact same thing yours is doing in the video. I did not have any boost leaks what-so-ever. I never did fix the problem because she blew before I could fix it. However, the one thing that stuck out in my mind was the Power Transistor, this is the electrical unit before the coil pack. If it is this, you will need a new one. Depending on where you get it, it could cost as much as $150, unless you want to stomach ebay, then of course you could cut that price into 1/4 of that. I don't recommend this, but you never really do know.

 

[BlackMount]

My car did the exact same thing, one minute it ran like the wind, another (but most of the time) it fell on it's face under boost. This problem happened after going through a HUGE water puddle (a flooded intersection). it would kill over at around 6000 rpm, but some times did the exact same thing yours is doing in the video. I did not have any boost leaks what-so-ever. I never did fix the problem because she blew before I could fix it. However, the one thing that stuck out in my mind was the Power Transistor, this is the electrical unit before the coil pack. If it is this, you will need a new one. Depending on where you get it, it could cost as much as $150, unless you want to stomach ebay, then of course you could cut that price into 1/4 of that. I don't recommend this, but you never really do know.

Well I changed my Plug wires. Made a big difference. CEL came on tonight. So I'm going to pull codes. But yesterday I was messing with stuff, and the idle was kinda choppy, then i just tapped my power transistor harness, and my idle smoothed out. I'm gonna maybe go through the harness and replace it.... My friend has a bunch of 91-94 Transistors, maybe a 1990. but if he doesn't have a 1990 is it possible to use the 91-94 transistor if I re wire the harness like the 91-94 ECU in a 1990 VFAQ right up??

EDIT: Is there adifference between the Turbo Power TR and the N\T Power TR?

 

[bmob01]

Check for vacuum leaks at the throttle body and intake manifold. Maybe your gaskets are work and there is a leak there (this happened to mine and it did exactly what yours is doing)