Exhaust in intake

[megadan]

ok I installed the new O2 (denso like the old) and I can clearly see that one works! So that means I got a bad O2 for about 1 year. I bought the old one from oxygensensors.com and it came right to me defect. As he was new, I was pretty sure it was something else that was shooting my O2 sensor to 0.02V.

The moral to keep in mind... A new thing doesn't mean it work!

Now my O2 oscillate but I STILL HAVE MY PROBLEM.

The wot run seems to be fine. But my mid throttle runs make a lot of knock retard around 5 degree.

Here my new logs, you can now see that my o2 is fine compare to the previous runs in the post.

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Just so you know, my spark plugs are BPR6EY.

 

[andymoraitis]

Dan,

I'm glad that at least one program is fixed. I have a Mac and can't read .dat files so is there any way you can copy and paste the log so I can have a look?

Thanks,

Andy

 

[megadan]

I hope this file is going to help. Maybe you could try to plot the graph with any software you got on a MAC.

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Im not able to upload a file with the ext .txt so I'll put it in .doc. If you're unable to, Ill paste it in text.

 

[slipstream808]

OK, Dan. I'm glad the o2 is working.

Looked at your logs. You have what is called "phantom knock".

It's not real. So go under knock sensor in the menu, and set it for 3500RPM's and 70% throttle. that should help there.

Next, I wanna see a log with LTFT's (both mid and lo), and STFT's and selected fuel trim.

 

[megadan]

Ok tomorow I'll take the log you want. I though about phatom knock but the problem is that I hear noise when I get knock. So maybe something is rattling. It is like knoking but only in mid RPM with mid Throttle. I'll investigate a bit more tomorow and I'll set the knock option like you said.

Stay tuned for more adventure with a happy ending I hope.

 

[alex99gst]

ok I installed the new O2 (denso like the old) and I can clearly see that one works! So that means I got a bad O2 for about 1 year. I bought the old one from oxygensensors.com and it came right to me defect. As he was new, I was pretty sure it was something else that was shooting my O2 sensor to 0.02V.

Just to add to this, when my oxygen sensor died I got a new one from somewhere and it worked for a while and then eventually read a constant 0.06. I just purchased one from oxygensensors.com too and now it still reads only 0.06, whereas the first new one atleast cycled for a month or two. I would think that all the denso ones would be the same out of the factory, but maybe we just weren't lucky enough to get a working one.

 

[andymoraitis]

I still don't see anything with the .doc file, but if you're getting phantom knock, the knock sensor needs to be replaced. If it's the original, it's definitely had enough and is giving you flase readings. Since I can't see the log, let me add that PK is usually part throttle knock of up to 43 counts.

Inspect the knock sensor for any black discharge coming out of the back and if there is any, replace it. Make sure that you torque the new one correctly since too much torrque will pick up any noise and think that it's real knock.

 

[megadan]

As the sound I was hearing was like knocking, I droped the oil pan. All bearing are chipped like they missed oil. The thrust bearing is the worst. It destroyed one thrust side of the crank. What happened!!! The crank was walking because of that. When I opened the Main Thrust, the bearings were 1/4 turn off so it is impossible for oil to go by the holes in the bearing. All others bearing were in place but chipped. Now I guess the crank is scrap. I'm going to rebuild it but I want to understant why It happen so it won't occur again. Can anyone help me? Pics will follow later.

 

[Black91TSiAWD]

dude that sucks! sorry to hear that.


Hope the next one goes a little better for ya.

 

[megadan]

Well that was my first rebuild so maybe I did a mistake but I can't find it. I checked all clearance with plastigauge.

I have a 2L Turbo crank spare so maybe I'll put it instead of a 2.4L. That would kill me to spend another 500 on a 2.4L crank and bust it again.

 

[slipstream808]

That would explain... a lot. I'm so sorry to hear that!

Post photos ASAP!

 

[andymoraitis]

Sorry about your misfortune Dan. I went through that earlier this year from oil pressure issues and lack of maintenance from the previous owners.

Since your 95 doesn't have the revised split thrust bearing, I'd consider a 6 bolt rebuild to be safe. I know that's not what you wanted to hear but...

 

[megadan]

Never hear about the revised thrust bearing. Gotta do more search

Pictures are coming at the end of the day. Be patient.

 

[andymoraitis]

Revised split thrust bearing were used on all late '98 and '99 blocks. These are incredibly reliable and highly sought after as far as 7 bolts go.

 

[92awddsm]

Sorry about your misfortune Dan. I went through that earlier this year from oil pressure issues and lack of maintenance from the previous owners.

Since your 95 doesn't have the revised split thrust bearing, I'd consider a 6 bolt rebuild to be safe. I know that's not what you wanted to hear but...

Old age is catching up to you(your 5 yrs older than me) He already has a 6 bolt swap.

I'm feed up with my car. I repair a problem and another one arise.

This time, it seems like the motor exhaust in intake. It is like I'm hearing air back in intake when I give a shot at the throttle.

-I also just install an exhaust temp gauge and when I guns it it climb to 1600F and I let it got before I melt something.

-I also have no power up 5000RPM.

-My o2 front is showing 0v-0.02v (lean or oxygen in exhaust) all the time exept when I give a shot at the pedal, it climbs to past 0.7 and falls down to 0V.

-I have no boost leak (I tested it).

-My car stalls if I put my idle at 750RPM and give some gas and release it. If I put it higher, it will fall down, almost stall and climb up to 1200 where I put it.

-I swapped ISC with no change.

It is a 6 bolts stroker.

Compression is 165 165 165 170.

I have own the car for 2 years now and he nver run right.
I'M TOTALLY OUT OF IDEAS AND FEED UP WITH MY CAR.
Please help or I'll have to sell the car.
Thanks

I had the same problem before. Mine was caused from a piece of casting breaking loose in the front oil galley of the block. I would recheck everything and have the bearings inspected so you can find the cause of the problem. If you reuse the current block, have the mains checked for size and alignment. Align hone if needed or get another block. Also debur all the rough casting inside the block and in the 2 front oil passages.

Check and make sure that the front bs bearings are covering the oil holes if you have a bs removal kit. I have seen a case where the bearings werent installed properly and caused low oil pressure which destroyed the crank and bearings. Better yet, you can tap the two oil holes for the front bs and install screw in plugs using locktite. Then reinstall the bearings to prevent the plugs from backing out. If you need more info on this, pm me and I will explain it in depth.

 

[andymoraitis]

Old age is catching up to you(your 5 yrs older than me) He already has a 6 bolt swap.

Indeed it has. Thanks for catching that Keith...

 

[megadan]

The pics are a bit blur because it was dark outside. If you want other pics to be taken from specific part, just tell me.

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[megadan]

On 1: The front main
On 2: The rear main. You can see a crack.
On 3: You can see the general look of all the bearing. They have small hole or scratch.
On 4: A rod bearing. The oil hole in the bearing is obstructed.
On 5: The top oil line is obstruted too (at the top near the bolt hole)
On 6-7-8-9: The infamous thrust. The most destroyed of all bearings. You can see that the side toward clutch is thinner than the other side. When I found the bearing, They were 1/4 turn off.

Any suggestion why it happened is welcome so I won't do the same mistake.

I'm going to block the oil squirter for sure for the next rebuilt so my oil pressure goes up.

 

[Steve93Talon]

Dan,

I'm glad that at least one program is fixed. I have a Mac and can't read .dat files so is there any way you can copy and paste the log so I can have a look?

Thanks,

Andy

Just download the .jar file from the dsmlink website (http://www.dsmlink.com/dsmlink.jar). Then launch it and click "open" and you can look at DSMlink logs.

 

[megadan]

I checked and the block is no longer good. So I'll have to pull the block again. I don't know if I'm going to buy a short block or rebuild one.