Exhaust in intake

[megadan]

I'm feed up with my car. I repair a problem and another one arise.

This time, it seems like the motor exhaust in intake. It is like I'm hearing air back in intake when I give a shot at the throttle.

-I also just install an exhaust temp gauge and when I guns it it climb to 1600F and I let it got before I melt something.

-I also have no power up 5000RPM.

-My o2 front is showing 0v-0.02v (lean or oxygen in exhaust) all the time exept when I give a shot at the pedal, it climbs to past 0.7 and falls down to 0V.

-I have no boost leak (I tested it).

-My car stalls if I put my idle at 750RPM and give some gas and release it. If I put it higher, it will fall down, almost stall and climb up to 1200 where I put it.

-I swapped ISC with no change.

It is a 6 bolts stroker.

Compression is 165 165 165 170.

I have own the car for 2 years now and he nver run right.
I'M TOTALLY OUT OF IDEAS AND FEED UP WITH MY CAR.
Please help or I'll have to sell the car.
Thanks

 

[UMR98GSX]

Your front O2 sensor is bad if it is reading .02v the whole time unless you gas it. Mine was doing the exact same thing. It should oscillate the entire time so the heating element in yours is shot and needs to be replaced. That should help steady your idle.

Make sure your egt gauge is reading in *F and not *C. 1600 *F is only 871*C and is perfectly fine, nothing to worry about. If it is 1600 *C you should be worried and you are right for easing up on it.

Update your mods profile too so it is easier to see what youa re tuning with and suggest some possible solutions.

 

[UMR98GSX]

About the air in your intake. I know you said you did a boost leak test but make sure that your BOV is not leaking. That could be what you are hearing.

 

[megadan]

Thanks for the fast reply. youre sure about the temperature of the exhaust? That would be 2912F. My gauge stops at 2500F. For my O2, I thought the same thing as you so I changed it a while ago and there were no change. Maybe to new O2 wasn't good. So the next step according to you would be to buy another O2? Anyone has the same conclusion as those suckers cost 80$

 

[megadan]

And for the BOV, I know it is leaking a bit at 25 psi but down to 15 psi it is ok. I'm sure it is not the BOV, it is coming from the intake near motor.

 

[UMR98GSX]

My bad on the temperature, I had it backwards, it's been a long day and I am having car problems too If you have a buddy with an O2 that you know is working see if they will lend it to you. If it fixes the problem then the one you just replaced is bad too and unfortunately you need to drop another 80 bones on a new one.

 

[megadan]

Yes the O2 swap is a good idea but I have no friends No seriously Talon or Eclipse are very rare. Any other ideas before I buy a new O2?

 

[redeclipse7782]

Do you have your EGR blocked off? If not that is the only way I can think of on how exhaust would get into the intake. If its not blocked off then remove it and block it off.

 

[megadan]

It is already blocked off. It seems to be coming from the valves.

 

[megadan]

I build the motor myself and I know that the valve timing is ok.

 

[slipstream808]

Shoot your timing and see if it's correct. If you have any datalogging equipment, check your fuel trims. If you don't have a datalogger or DSMLink... get one!!

Pull your spark plugs and see how they look.

Do you have any cams?

 

[megadan]

Here is a DSMLink log I took. There is only short pull and normal driving because I didn't want to go to the highway and blow the engine there.

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Use DSMLINK to check my timing. At the same time you can check the funky O2 reading.

No the cams are stock.

The 2 plugs in the center looks fine (brownish) and the 2 on the sides look a light brown.

I pulled all the wire one by one while the car was running and the spark was jumping on the block, the spark was strong.

 

[Rob10_99]

how does DSMlink know that the physical base timing is right?

unless you "physically" set the base timing, how do you know for sure?

CAS, does it look to be in good shape?

 

[megadan]

for the base timing, I adjusted it with a timing light on 5 degree at idle. For the CAS, that is a good question. How do I test it.

 

[Rob10_99]

search for how to test it, I had one that got all oily and stopped working on me.

if you buy a new one, make sure it works fror your year car/ecu

I remember what you need is an ohmmeter and I think thats it,

 

[97gstnick]

did you ground timing in dsmlink when setting your base timing?

 

[97gstnick]

if indeed your o2 sensor is good and you are running super lean, this means you are knocking horribly and your ecu is pulling timing drastically. this would explain your no power at 5000rpm. your whole idle problem sounds a bit like an venting bov.

what size injectors do you have? what turbo? and what are your global, dead time and wot settings in dsmlink?

 

[megadan]

Yes the timing was grounded in DSMLink when it was adjusted.
My injector are stock.. well I didn't changed them. I will check if the are 450cc (stock one). If anyone have a pic handy? Or a trick to recognise them.

My turbo is a T-25.

For my global, dead time and wot settings in dsmlink, I left them alone. Has my battery was disconnected for a while, these should be default.

And no I am not venting, I know that is .

Thanks for helping me everybody. You're giving me the hope that maybe, one day, my dsm will be a pleasure to drive... because now it isn't.

 

[andymoraitis]

Dan,

I know you have to be frustrated, but let's not ignore the little things that could be making a huge difference.

An O2 that doesn't cylcle is about to die. As a result, it will read lean and dump tons of fuel to compensate. Performance will suffer and gas mileage will go down as a result. How drastic things become depends on how bad the O2 sensor is, but if you're seeing it go to .70 and then drop to zero, it needs to be replaced. Keep in mind that high EGT's don't necessarily mean that the motor is running lean. If too much fuel is being dumped into the cylinders, the excess actually combusts in the manifold. If your logger is showing you knock and the EGT's are high with a failing O2, you may be encountering rich knock and still pulling timing as a result. Added to this is the fact that on a stock fuel system with untouched deadtime and global numbers (which is correct) your failing O2 may take your already rich 9.5:1 A/F ratio and drop it into the 8:1 range (or thereabouts).

While that will likely cure the sensation of power loss, another problem is that you're running a T25 on a stroker. I ran a 16G on a 2.3 and the power dropped off dramatically at 5500-6000 because the turbo couldn't keep up. Your condition will be much worse since the T25 runs out of air on a 2.0 at 5500-6000. I can't imagine how bad it is on a larger displacement motor. Once you replace the O2, please make sure that you keep the boost levels reasonable on a stock fuel system.

In any event, replace the O2 and take it for another run. A great source for O2 sensors is:

http://www.sparkplugs.com

Their sensors are much less than dealer cost and they are direct plug and play with no wire splicing. In addition, these are Denso sensors that are more resistant to leaded gas.

Fix that and let us know how it goes,

Andy

 

[megadan]

ok I checked my injectors and they are MDL450 so I guess 450cc (stock one). I went for a ride and when I keep a constant speed (around mid throttle), I can't hear like ping metalic sound coming from around exhaust. It seems like DSMlink pick this like it is knocking because my CEL comes... that means 5 deg of retard cause by knocking. Is it what we call pinging

 

[97gstnick]

Im pretty sure you wont hear pinging in your exhaust but please correct me if im wrong. When I would hear knock it would come from under the hood itself and sound like someone was tapping it with a penny. I would definitely check into your o2 sensor being messed up. If you are with stock injectors and stock turbo with low boost, then i find no reason for you to be running out of fuel unless you have a seriously clogged fuel filter or something along that line.

 

[megadan]

ok I bought a O2 from carquest and it is a Bosh. I put it in and write you back to give feedback. It was $109 CND just so you know.

 

[megadan]

The O2 sensor that was there was a Denso 065500 9591. Now carquest gave me a 75-1596 (written on the box). On the sensor, it is written 0258 005 704 5920833 12V. IT DOESN'T FIT

The sensor will srew but the connector won't plug. I had the idea to splice it but if it is not the good one, they won't refund me. Can anyone confirm these numbers?

 

[Eclipsethis90]

Just an idea, cut the old connector off on the busted o2 and attach it to the new one. Just make sure you solder it and wrap up those wires well.

 

[UMR98GSX]

Just an idea, cut the old connector off on the busted o2 and attach it to the new one. Just make sure you solder it and wrap up those wires well.

Exactly, a buddy of mine replaced his a while back and didn't know to specify that he wanted a mitsu clip and was given a generic. Long story short, wires were spliced, the mitsu clip was added and he had a new O2 sensor.