2G Evo 3 16g on near stock setup

[Lyle Corpse]

So I have a rebuilt evo 3 16g with no miles i bought and I was wondering if I'd be able to run it on a pretty much stock set up. I'm getting a set of evo 9 injectors from a buddy of mine and that would be about it. I want to get an evo 9 intercooler that I found local but I'm not sure how to run piping through to make it work or what size pipes I'd need. I do plan on buying a walbro 255, wideband, and other supporting mods but right now I just need to get my gsx running since my daily currently costs more to get running than my gsx.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

And how do you expect to tune all of this? you cannot just throw parts on and expect it to run to then come back last and complain how unreliable the DSM's are!!!

If you want a new turbo or even injectors your going to need an ecu tuning method! search for the upgrade path and follow it closely! jumping the gun on it will create you issues and an unhappy owner who will then complain, do it right the first time and it will reward you much better then half assing it

 

[boostdawd]

The Evo 3 would not be bolt on like your current turbo. You do need to run a 16g conversion kit. The turbo outlet is different and will need a j pipe do make it work. search for 16g conversion kits to get an idea on how to make your own or buy one from the vendors here. Aside from the kit it Wil bolt right up and u can run it at moderate boost with no issues. I would say anywhere from 14-15psi.

 

[gst-turbo]

I would slap it on just be careful and don't run more than 14 psi. Then focus on getting all the supporting mods like ecmlink and fuel.

 

[Lyle Corpse]

And how do you expect to tune all of this? you cannot just throw parts on and expect it to run to then come back last and complain how unreliable the DSM's are!!!

I do plan on buying a wideband and dsmlink v3 I guess i should've mentioned that as well

Aside from the kit it Wil bolt right up and u can run it at moderate boost with no issues. I would say anywhere from 14-15psi.

are you implying that I can run it without the evo injectors and just on a completely stock platform? I do have the gaskets and the 2g kit for the turbo

I would slap it on just be careful and don't run more than 14 psi. Then focus on getting all the supporting mods like ecmlink and fuel.

I'd just be able to slap the turbo on without the other mods and just run the wastegate to 14psi? I know to keep it easy, very easy on the throttle but i just need something to get me to school and work until i can afford to fix the daily

 

[gst-turbo]

Just buy the 2g install kit and don't go past 14psi. I would redline the car with stock set up and an evo 3 for almost a year and when I installed link and did a log car ran perfect.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I do plan on buying a wideband and dsmlink v3 I guess i should've mentioned that as well


are you implying that I can run it without the evo injectors and just on a completely stock platform? I do have the gaskets and the 2g kit for the turbo


I'd just be able to slap the turbo on without the other mods and just run the wastegate to 14psi? I know to keep it easy, very easy on the throttle but i just need something to get me to school and work until i can afford to fix the daily

Yes that would have made my reply alot simpler, at least your thinking of that stuff so thats good, still worth a good read on the upgrade path to see what else you have or may not have over looked

 

[napkinthief]

I do plan on buying a wideband and dsmlink v3 I guess i should've mentioned that as well


are you implying that I can run it without the evo injectors and just on a completely stock platform? I do have the gaskets and the 2g kit for the turbo


I'd just be able to slap the turbo on without the other mods and just run the wastegate to 14psi? I know to keep it easy, very easy on the throttle but i just need something to get me to school and work until i can afford to fix the daily

hey dude, jus some tips to not blow your motor by mistake.

1. install your wideband, before the turbo. it will save you millions of headaches, and keep you from boosting lean and blowing shit up.

2. after installing your wideband, you need a data logger setup. this will track your afrs, timing, knock, injector duty cycle etc. you dont want knock. it will destroy your motor. knock is when the combustion happens too early, either from hotspots, incorrect afr, etc. it melts pistons, cracks heads, blows headgaskets, spins bearing, all the fun stuff that requires engine overhauls


once you have these vital tools installed, then you can start messing with your turbo, fuel etc.

swap your replacement turbo. watch afrs, knock count and injector duty cycle. start at the lowest boost you can dial in. go up 1-2 psi at a time, if you get to 80% on injector duty cycle, you dont want to go any higher in boost, as you wont have enough fuel to keep it running rich enough. dont let anyone tell u, run 14 psi and you are good. its just not true. you could very well only run 10 psi before seeing knock counts. depends on the particular engine.

at this point, you should have maintained the reliability with your upgrades. i would then install a higher flow fuel pump and bigger injectors, but you will need a fuel controller, ecu or piggyback to tune the injectors. back in my day, a maft or a safc were enough. these days theres so many option your head will explode. safc is very easy, makes changes in fuel by 5% increments, and i highly recommend if you want to tune yourself. if you will be using a tuner/dyno, ask them which ecu they are best at tuning.

it may seem, slow to gather and upgrade parts, costly at times, but you would be working backwards, just slapping a new turbo on and hoping your tune is sufficient. think about how much itd cost you to replace a block, or a head, then think about how much easier it is to install a $150-200 wideband before and avoid all that

 

[Willsgalant]

Why does everyone assume he will be racing a stock car, he wrote he just wants it running. Do what gst-turbo said.

 

[Lyle Corpse]

Alright thanks for the the advice!

Why does everyone assume he will be racing a stock car, he wrote he just wants it running. Do what gst-turbo said.

thank you for understanding what I really need , I do know you can't just slap everything on without supporting mods but I just need my car driveable because as it sits the stock 14b has bad turbo seals and burns oil sending clouds of smoke out the exhaust (whiteish smoke blue tint)

 

[19gsx91]

Yup.. x2 and x3 What @boostdawd and @gst-turbo said.. Stock maps in 1gs and 2gs are pretty conservative so you do have wiggle room, Don't exceed 14psi and you'll be fine, It isn't a bad idea to get a wideband and a way to at least log what the car is doing.

 

[Lyle Corpse]

Yup.. x2 and x3 What @boostdawd and @gst-turbo said.. Stock maps in 1gs and 2gs are pretty conservative so you do have wiggle room, Don't exceed 14psi and you'll be fine, It isn't a bad idea to get a wideband and a way to at least log what the car is doing.

alright thanks! yea, I want to get an innovate wideband but thats out of my price range for now so might settle for something cheap that works... also need to find an intercooler pipe to hook the 16g to the stock sidemount

 

[Lyle Corpse]

I DO KNOW THAT ITS PRONE TO HEAT ISSUES IF I BEAT ON IT BUT AS I'VE SAID BEFORE I JUST NEED TO BE ABLE TO GO TO SCHOOL AND WORK UNTIL I FIX MY DAILY!!! so in other words I'm not going to beat on it