Evo 1 Gsr Awd Lsd Transmission In 2g

[GST with PSI]

Stay tuned as I send it in for 300m shaft upgrade order a one piece driveshaft heck upgrade the axles as well, they are slinging grease everywhere under the car.

You can't get a 1pc driveshaft without a custom rear end. You can eliminate the first two halves and rebuild the rear third half with the DSS driveshaft, though.

Is that what you're referring to?

 

[keltalon]

Well after locking the rear and front wheels together with 50/50 split and pulling the center diff out in the process for inspection Which looks absolutely superb. I put everything back together and still have same issue front tires only spinning. After further research which lead me to takes a closer look at the transfer case I notice that the shaft that connects to the driveshaft is snapped in half this explains why the rear tires was locking up and the front tires laying drag. I assumed it was the viscous coupling that's why I modified above all in the process of getting to the root of the problem. The transfer case was completely stock. Stay tuned as I send it in for 300m shaft upgrade order a one piece driveshaft heck upgrade the axles as well, they are slinging grease everywhere under the car. I will also go ahead and take it through the same process as the transmission , wpc , rem cryo ect just something I love to do , to ensure no further issues in the future! This all happen when I turned the boost up to 40psi just insanity!

Let fix this post. After taking the transfer case off its not broken. Stay tuned S I pull the transmission to inspect the clutch. I'll post update later tonight.

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[Lou98GSX]

Yep she is spinning all 4 . I have a tre trans in my car with a quaif front diff and a 4 spider center diff and when i launch it all 4 tires spin . Just love it .

 

[keltalon]

Yep she is spinning all 4 . I have a tre trans in my car with a quaif front diff and a 4 spider center diff and when i launch it all 4 tires spin . Just love it .

Yeah its definitely a rush!

Ok found the issue!

 

[ceedawg]

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Kelclipse!

 

[keltalon]

I will post a video here shortly as to what was causing the issue the video can explain better than I can!

 

[JDT]

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That was a lot more badass than I was expecting

 

[keltalon]

Problem fixed!! The friction material on the clutch was cheap therefore it was replaced and all is the way it should be now. I will go through the break-in instructions provided by local custom clutch shop! Stay tuned!

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[94awdcoupe]

doubtful that was your problem. nothing wrong with old friction material. chipping not only normal it doesnt affect grab. just means there is slightly more pressure on each puc. didnt your clutch expert tell you three pucs grab harder than four? you dont have enough clutch for torque you make. also that type of material does not need pressure plate resurfaced to work good. it grabs better on ruffed up used surface. you dont care to listen to the seasoned who have already done what you are doing. which is okay. but painful as much as it is fun to watch from here.

 

[Vegas Smith]

doubtful that was your problem. nothing wrong with old friction material. chipping not only normal it doesnt affect grab. just means there is slightly more pressure on each puc. didnt your clutch expert tell you three pucs grab harder than four? you dont have enough clutch for torque you make. also that type of material does not need pressure plate resurfaced to work good. it grabs better on ruffed up used surface. you dont care to listen to the seasoned who have already done what you are doing. which is okay. but painful as much as it is fun to watch from here.

I'm pretty sure TMZ recommended the clutch for keltalon's specific power levels. Are you saying that the surface could be potentially warped and it would still work fine?

 

[keltalon]

I'm pretty sure TMZ recommended the clutch for keltalon's specific power levels. Are you saying that the surface could be potentially warped and it would still work fine?

I got an email from tmz and he said that it was improper break-in and heat that lead to the carnage. At any rate I have new pucks on the disc and I will see what happens from hence forth. You can bet there will be videos of how the pucks are holding up. If they do then we know it was the pucks if they dont then nothing in single disc form will hold up. I'll keep the thread updated!

doubtful that was your problem. nothing wrong with old friction material. chipping not only normal it doesnt affect grab. just means there is slightly more pressure on each puc. didnt your clutch expert tell you three pucs grab harder than four? you dont have enough clutch for torque you make. also that type of material does not need pressure plate resurfaced to work good. it grabs better on ruffed up used surface. you dont care to listen to the seasoned who have already done what you are doing. which is okay. but painful as much as it is fun to watch from here.

The flywheel was not resurfaced so that the material would hold it was resurfaced to ensure flatness as stated above. Due to the amount of heat it certainly was warped a bit!

 

[94awdcoupe]

cerametallic pucs are very hard on the surface they slip on. they create a tremendous amount of heat. they need virtually zero break-in. and as stated they work great on what looks like a torn up, over heated, purple, warped metal surface. it will be right back to that look after two launches. completey normal. the only way it will look smooth is if there is zero slipping. your powerband REQUIRES tremendous slipping of clutch on a launch.

 

[twicks69]

Dude, I have been out of the country and had nearly zero internet services. I still was responding to emails from you when I got internet back. It is the EXACT SAME FRICTION MATERIAL that they put on. Still ceramic.

To break in ceramic material faster you can media blast the friction surfaces with a coarse to medium grit aluminum oxide (60-120 grit range) so there is surface porosity. This is what I do with my ceramic twin disk setups that customers are typically putting in, then going to the dyno or the track immediately so that it can at least bed itself much faster.

If you are disappointed in me and my products because you had nearly zero break in time on the clutch before racing it, then so be it. I don't know what to think because you sound completely different in your emails than you do on here in your videos with the portrayal of the products. As well, who did you directly contact at SBC?

Like I said, I can easily do Feramic on that disk. It has a higher temperature range but you will also have a more aggressive disk friction material that can friction weld itself to the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces if it is overheated. I can certainly tell you from the pictures you sent me as well as the video above that you overheated the disk material, and that it is glazed. If the material is glazed, it will slip. The glazing is likely from lack of break-in because you didn't bed in the friction surfaces. The Feramic has a higher torque capacity but it also comes with the potential of friction welding the disk to your pressure plate and flywheel, which will result in clutch disengagement issues if you nuclear bomb overheat it.

 

[keltalon]

Dude, I have been out of the country and had nearly zero internet services. I still was responding to emails from you when I got internet back. It is the EXACT SAME FRICTION MATERIAL that they put on. Still ceramic.

To break in ceramic material faster you can media blast the friction surfaces with a coarse to medium grit aluminum oxide (60-120 grit range) so there is surface porosity. This is what I do with my ceramic twin disk setups that customers are typically putting in, then going to the dyno or the track immediately so that it can at least bed itself much faster.

If you are disappointed in me and my products because you had nearly zero break in time on the clutch before racing it, then so be it. I don't know what to think because you sound completely different in your emails than you do on here in your videos with the portrayal of the products. As well, who did you directly contact at SBC?

Like I said, I can easily do Feramic on that disk. It has a higher temperature range but you will also have a more aggressive disk friction material that can friction weld itself to the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces if it is overheated. I can certainly tell you from the pictures you sent me as well as the video above that you overheated the disk material, and that it is glazed. If the material is glazed, it will slip. The glazing is likely from lack of break-in because you didn't bed in the friction surfaces. The Feramic has a higher torque capacity but it also comes with the potential of friction welding the disk to your pressure plate and flywheel, which will result in clutch disengagement issues if you nuclear bomb overheat it.

May be I missed it. But do sbc put break-in instructions in the box of new clutches per specific friction material? if so I didn't see it therefore I followed what is common procedure. At any rate for the moment problem solved. I will move forward! There are too many options available for the clutch for me to cry over spilled milk. I 'll update accordingly.

 

[bastarddsm]

It is the EXACT SAME FRICTION MATERIAL that they put on. Still ceramic.

Tim, there are dozens and dozens of puck type ceramic friction materials out there that can be riveted to our discs. They are not all the same.

I've run 3 types and have hundreds of passes on them. I can safely say whatever act is using on their puck discs is probably some of the best. It seems to have the best balance of durability/drivability/holding power Whatever xtd is using on the solid discs is also great. That shit grabs like hell and does not wear. It's grabby though. Then the pucks on XTD's sprung discs is kinda shitty. It works, but doesn't hold as much. It does drive smooth, but wants to chunk out like kels disc did.


As for Kels disc, I had an act disc do that to me, only it lost all the facing of a couple pucks. ACT warrantyed it even with me telling then it was installed driven to the track, had 8 passes, then taken out. No break-in. When the pucks come apart like that it's usually something wrong with the puck.

If it was me I'd put an act sprung 4 puck in it, and be done. 4 puck an a 2600 holds pass after pass of 135-140mph traps in a much torquier setup.

 

[keltalon]

Tim, there are dozens and dozens of puck type ceramic friction materials out there that can be riveted to our discs. They are not all the same.

I've run 3 types and have hundreds of passes on them. I can safely say whatever act is using on their puck discs is probably some of the best. It seems to have the best balance of durability/drivability/holding power Whatever xtd is using on the solid discs is also great. That sh** grabs like hell and does not wear. It's grabby though. Then the pucks on XTD's sprung discs is kinda sh**ty. It works, but doesn't hold as much. It does drive smooth, but wants to chunk out like kels disc did.


As for Kels disc, I had an act disc do that to me, only it lost all the facing of a couple pucks. ACT warrantyed it even with me telling then it was installed driven to the track, had 8 passes, then taken out. No break-in. When the pucks come apart like that it's usually something wrong with the puck.

If it was me I'd put an act sprung 4 puck in it, and be done. 4 puck an a 2600 holds pass after pass of 135-140mph traps in a much torquier setup.

I know you and I are at difference sometimes but you said almost word for word what the local shop said as far as friction material and gave me their recommendation. I am still playing around in this area but will know shortly if it will indeed hold up. Unfortunately since judgment was rendered no warranty for me on this one...

 

[GST with PSI]

Tim, there are dozens and dozens of puck type ceramic friction materials out there that can be riveted to our discs. They are not all the same.

I don't think Tim was saying all puck types are the same. I believe he meant the type installed by the local shop was also ceramic, same as the SB disc.

I've had a few ACT 6 puck discs that looked even worse than that, and still grabbed fine. The flaking occurs after the disc gets super hot, and the puck material fractures. After that, it simply flakes off.

I'm betting on external factors that are contributing to slippage. I'm just curious as to how many more clutches it will take to find the issue.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Well as,usual keep us posted.

 

[keltalon]

Well as,usual keep us posted.

Will do!

 

[petegsx]

Just curious what it cost to repuck a clutch?

 

[keltalon]

Just curious what it cost to repuck a clutch?

45.00

 

[keltalon]

Here's an update i am in the process of replacing the rack and pinion, car is being prepped for painting and interior is being reworked. Getting ready for may ga 1/2 mile. In the mean time I am also working to complete a del sol b16 all motor individual throttle body, 13:1 engine project. Two projects fighting for attention is a chore! I pick the del sol up from the body shop next week eclipse is supposed to go in shortly thereafter. Stay tuned.

 

[1998_gst]

Any updates?

 

[keltalon]

Well I recently as of

Any updates?

1 week ago went with all act components for my clutch 3200 lbs pressure plate and act 6 puck. All slipping issues is thing of the past. I also installed a quaife lsd in the front diff. I am prepping for the next 1/2 mile event.

 

[lasershark]

I am prepping for the next 1/2 mile event.

Nice! I am expecting to see you crush some $100k car owners pride... again