engine will not crank after rebuild

[cpriv95]

I searched alittle but coudnt find anything that matched up to this problem. Me and my buddy just finished rebuilding a 95 talon tsi fwd. everything is hooked up and what not, and we go to turn it over to build up oil pressure and we get nothing. we tried several different batteries and still nothing. I even replaced the starter and that wasnt it either. The car has sat around for like 2 yrs or so. I get all the lights to light up, i just dont get anything else. Its really starting to get frustrating. If anybody has had a problem similar to this or if you can help please respond. Also I've heard people talking about replacing their CAS but i dont know what that stands for, or even replacing or bypassing the ignition switch. I dont really know please help. Im new to the DSM world!

 

[underpressure25]

the first time I built a motor I had the same problem and it turned out that it was that single little wire that also connects to the starter. I beleive its part of the starter relay circuit. It connects to the little spade tab above the B+ wire on the starter make sure it is connectedat the starter and anywhere else it might run.
Goodluck

 

[Scott_S]

First off welcom to tuners second cas is either the cam sensor or crank sensor or on a 1g its one unit. Have to tried taking your starter out and grounding it outside of the bell housing to see if it would turn over that way? If not do that, that way you can determine wether it is a problem with the igntion switch/wires or if its not its a problem with your flywheel/flexplate or you might have put your crank pully on to tight.

 

[toybreaker]

A few quick things to check.

Starter is plugged in and good? Two wires go there. big power wire, little wire for cranky.

It's pretty easy to check. Buy a cheesmo test lite at autozone or wherever. Check for power at the starter wire, the big one. Should lite any time you check. Have someone turn the key to start, and check the little wire. It should lite when the key is in the start position, with the clutch pushed in

A few other things to check..

All the fuses, of course....

Is the clutch switch good to go? On the pedal bracket is two switches. One for clutch out, and one for inny. Make sure the inny works. Car only cranks with the clutch in.

Does the car have a factory alarm?

Another choice is a sleeping aftermarket alarm. Most of the time there will be an led visible on the dash or center console. Is there any extra mystery wires under the dash? Has the ignition switch harness been tampered with? Is there a little toggle switch lurking under the dash somewhere? Lots of used cars get sold with alarms installed and no remotes...

Good luck, and let us know what you find!

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

You have received a lot of good information. Basically, you have a large wire on the starter solenoid. This comes from your battery. It should be hot all the time. You have a "little" wire that gets 12 volts when you are attempting to start the car. This pulls the solenoid in and transfers voltage from the battery directly to the starter. If you do not have voltage on the big post at all times, check connections. If you have voltage and then none on the little post, check your clutch switch, relay, and ignition switch. You may need a schematic to follow the right wires to see where you are losing voltage. I suggest purchasing a factory service manual set. Trust me, you are going to need it. Might as well get it now.

Good Luck

 

[dedlewamp]

Yup, lots of good advice above. Try all those. If everything checks out still, give the starter a good whack with a mallet, while someone trys to start the car.

Let us know what happens!

 

[cpriv95]

thanx for all the help. but first things first where is the starter relay located at. we cant seem to pinpoint its location.

 

[wolf20043]

Also be sure you did not leave the starter ground that connects to the bellhousing/starter bolt.
Mike

 

[cpriv95]

All in all I think we determined it to be the ignition switch. At the little spade terminal we were not getting any power when we depressed the clutch and tried starting it. Then when we finally got the new switch in, we put it in the car and it still didnt do anything. So we took the switch out and tested it and it tested the same as the old one. So either they sold us a faulty switch or the Haynes rebuild book is wrong. I'm hoping that we just got a faulty switch cause if not, I dont know what the problem could be.

 

[GTM]

All in all I think we determined it to be the ignition switch. At the little spade terminal we were not getting any power when we depressed the clutch and tried starting it.
...
I dont know what the problem could be.

More than likely the answer is to be found in the above posts which have covered most of the possibilities.

I would suggest that you could hot wire the starter solenoid. This is a #12 gage that will reach from the solenoid terminal to the + positive battery terminal. Crimp a female spade terminal on the wire and substitute for the existing wire. Turn the key to start for a second or so, if all is well except the start circuit you will build fuel pressure. From under the hood touch the bare end of your hot wire to the + battery post, the car should crank and may start. You can buy or make a tool which includes a horn button switch and a small battery clamp which allows you to move around the engine compartment while cranking.

This will establish some basic facts that the starter is capable, the engine will crank, battery cables are attached and making proper contact. If cranking for oil pressure you can then remove the spark plugs which will speed cranking RPM.

Keep us posted of what you find.

Cheers,
GTM