Engine review

[1g8420a]

Ok so i Just wanted to keep you all up to date... I will post a review shortly I will have it in the correct area.. I am in need of advice I have all the tolerences and the build sheet.

 

[glowryder]

Be sure to post a link here so we can find it

 

[1g8420a]

Be sure to post a link here so we can find it

Here is the link: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...stage-1-crate-motor-review.html#post153134360

 

[grothe3297venge]

How come you said you got the hypurnetic (spelling?) pistons but on the build sheet it says Manley?

 

[1g8420a]

How come you said you got the hypurnetic (spelling?) pistons but on the build sheet it says Manley?

Yeah About that I left that out when I was typing my review.. I checked the Part number on google.. and it came up on summit performance's web site as a forged floating/press fit wrist pin set up as well as a forged piston I verified the part number stamped on the top of the piston via the spark plug holes.. The only thing I could not physically verify was the manufacturer of the piston that's all. I actually see that as a good thing as maybe I can pull them out and run the Eagle rod since they are only like $350 I am going to call Manley on Tuesday and verify if this is possible.

 

[glowryder]

Hmm. Ive never seen a pn engraved on the top of the piston...???
What does the bottom of the piston say? Any stampings or markings? Something seems fishy here? Pay for a cheaper piston amd you get a forged? Idk just weird how the pn is on the top surface..imo.. id very those pistons 100% before you buy rods and realize they dont work. The side skirting may revial a clue to. Any cotaing or logo on the side of the piston (if you pull them).

Find any sand?

 

[finesse49ers]

I read what you have so far in the review thread. The engine looks good but damn, you could've bought a complete stock engine from me along with BNIB JE pistons and Eagle connecting rods shipped for just under half the price. I've never dealt with DSM Graveyard but I hope everything works out for you.

 

[NHerron]

Wiseco has part numbers on their piston tops so I think it's safe to say it's not unusual.

 

[glowryder]

On 420a pistons? Ive had a fewwiescos for builds and have never seen that. Interesting.

 

[NHerron]

Yeah these are my .020" over stroker pistons from Wiseco via Xpsi. I don't see why they'd do it differently for the 420a but who knows...

 

[dexterholland04]

Let me Google that for you...

 

[NHerron]

Not sure what that lmgtfy was for...

 

[bullettdsm]

Let me Google that for you...

Yeah these are my .020" over stroker pistons from Wiseco via Xpsi. I don't see why they'd do it differently for the 420a but who knows...

Not sure what that lmgtfy was for...

Showing off their skillzzz?

OP, the descriptor has me a little confused, "a forged floating/press fit wrist pin set up as well as a forged piston". The "floating/press fit" are two different applications. You would need to know which you have if you want to see if you can use Eagle's.

And since you can read the part number, how can it only give a descriptor wthout sizing? (maybe its just the number for the "slug" itself. Before it is machined to spec ) Can you post up the number?

MB

 

[1g8420a]

Showing off their skillzzz?

OP, the descriptor has me a little confused, "a forged floating/press fit wrist pin set up as well as a forged piston". The "floating/press fit" are two different applications. You would need to know which you have if you want to see if you can use Eagle's.

And since you can read the part number, how can it only give a descriptor wthout sizing? (maybe its just the number for the "slug" itself. Before it is machined to spec ) Can you post up the number?

MB

Manley Platinum Series Pistons 607005C-4 - SummitRacing.com there you go and if you went to the review there is a part number.. the link to the review is on page 1 of this thread.....

 

[BogusSVO]

BullettDSM.... Most all forged pistons are a "floating" piston. Due to it having the ablity to use wrist pin clips.

Now yes you can press fit "Wiseco" pistons on stock rods.

It is more on the rod than the piston weather or not it is a full floating or a press fit.



Yes, Wiseco does stamp/engrave the part number on the crown of the piston.
Alot of forged piston manufactures do that.

 

[kthackst]

I know this is a misprint but, I am loving the ring gaps on the build sheet.

 

[1g8420a]

Here is an Update.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/aL5qutWoS00" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Aproductions]

Yes. Gonna suck to clean up the mess but not a too hard of fix. Don't say no one warned you though.

 

[glowryder]

Ouch.. that sucks. Well, at least they are consistantly bad..

Main or the freeze plug on that interface leakin? (You may have already said.. but i watched the vid with no sounds)

 

[rlacasse1]

Well at least it runs. That's an accomplishment itself.

 

[white92talontsi]

It's a 420A. It does not want to live on this planet anymore!

 

[1g8420a]

Yes. Gonna suck to clean up the mess but not a too hard of fix. Don't say no one warned you though.

Ya I was warned .. I guess now all I can say is what is DSM Graveyard going to do to fix this? I can tell you one thing for sure I am not gonna send it back.. I'd probably have to wait another month blah blah blah... Besides I am moving looks like it's gonna be on a trailer. All I can do is laugh for some strange reason.. F@$^ DSM GRAVEYARD I am hot over it. you pay money to have someone do it right and take some stress off your own back and, then they get it wrong.

It's a 420A. It does not want to live on this planet anymore!

So you're avatar is a, Evo. I own a 10' evo X .. if you have nothing good to say about a 420a run your mouth on a evo forum I know of plenty of 420a's making very good power.. Enjoy you're $35K I bought my 420A for $300.00 Judging by your signature your not a DSM fan anyway..

 

[PrimerPLus]

That sucks man. If I was you I would call and raise Hell. Make them come pick it up and fix it.

 

[spydergstftw]

I know this is off topic, sorta, but I know the feeling about when you pay for a product then it comes out complete crap. 18 months ago I paid for a local shop to rebuild my auto transmission. They got it done in about a month. Once I got the car back the transmission was leaking, somehow they fried the insides of my radio along with blowing 3 of my fuses including my alternator fuse. I brought my car back and told them to fix the leak since it was under a 1 year warranty, I then had to take the car back 3 times for them to "fix" the leak. I then refused to take it back after the 3rd time and found that they didn't attach a hose on the tranny which was causing the leak. and now 6 months after the warranty ran up, 3rd gear disappears while I am driving in traffic and now I am carless for some more time...

 

[bullettdsm]

Manley Platinum Series Pistons 607005C-4 - SummitRacing.com there you go and if you went to the review there is a part number.. the link to the review is on page 1 of this thread.....

Ah, that word "OR" makes a big difference (descriptor in link; "Wrist Pin Styleress-fit or floating"). Makes sense to me now.

But let's look past the question of Eagle rods and go to your current "sitcheewayshun".

Crap, I'm sorry man, hate to see that. That is a ton load of oil coming out of there so quickly. There are two things in that area that I could think of that would leak that bad (and that quickly).

1. Crankseal. Did they even put one in, ? There are a couple options here. One could be it is one of those crappy crank seals. I normally don't use the "cheapo" gasket kit crank seals. Too much chance of having that happen. If/when you replace yours go OEM, for better piece of mind.

They could also have put the seal in incorrectly. One of the problems with dealing with "bolt-on hacks" (you know, guys who can bolt a part together but really don't know what they are doing when it comes to technical ability or technique,"Yeah, I can put those rings in for you but I have no idea on the gap or if the rings are on upside down or even in the right groove" - we'll get back to that later). That crankseal is real easy to put on incorrectly. It requires being careful and not rolling the lip so the inner spring comes off the lip. It could also be not on far enough or on crooked. Again something that a bolt-on hack may not watch for (imo this is the most likely situation).

2. Freeze plug. There is one freeze plug in there that is a plug for right off the oil pressure switch. They may have replaced this and, again, installed incorrectly.

These are the most likely scenarios, but keep in mind that you could have goofy stuff of a cracked block or a large defect in the flexplate. And before you do go to pull the engine, take off the inspection plate and do a visual above and around the bellhousing, just be sure that its not something goofy (say the oil pressure switch sqirting out in just the right direction as to leakdown and seem to be leaking at the crank. Very unlikely, but takes no time to check).

Now getting back to the "bolt-on hack". While its great that the car started, this may just be the tip of the iceberg. When building an engine there are things you need to watch for (I already referenced the rings which not only could be put in upside down, the gaps could measured incorrectly - were they sure the ring was not at a slight angle when they measured it in the bore? Did they file the end of the gap correctly andnot have a V shaped gap? Hell, did they even check the gaps? - so many things just in the rings that could be screwed up). While you see this huge oil leak, are you sure there are not others? Say the bedplate o-ring? Or the Oil pump sealed properly? Or the cam seals? Or even the headgasket? And who's to say that bearing clearances are correct, or valves are sealing properly or the valve seals or even the cam caps are on correctly (or even the correct caps)?

I guess my point is you need to look at this build as suspect from the get-go. Its not just the leak, but its the prior history of the company you are dealing with (hell, you've already had your taste of dealing with them). You need to decide if you want to roll the dice or do a pre-emptive strike (and I'm not suggesting anything either way. This decision needs to be based on your needs/wants and your value on multiple labor).

You need to look at this build as if your buddy down the street did it (you know the one. The guy who gives you a hand doing your brakes. Or remember the time you guys swapped the tranny in his S-10? Yeah, that guy ), just because he wanted to try it.

On second thought your buddy would care a whole lot more.........

MB