engine project

[93talon_dl]

i know this is in the wrong spot. but i can only post here. but anyways. this is the build i want to do and i want to know if it will work or what i will need to change to make it all work for a dd.

topline engine gasket and internal set from machv
eagle connecting rods
crower stage 1 cams
crower valve springs and titanium retainers
ble solid lifters
topline rocker arms
ferrea copper valve guides
ferrea valve locks
brian crower valves (std)
arp main studs, rod bolts and head studs
fidanza cam gears
evo3 turbo with porting and upgraded wastegate flapper
evo3 ported manifold
evo3 o2 housing
full megan 3 in exhaust
3 in gm maf and maf translator
slowboy racing fmic
turbo xs type h bov
190 fuel pump
fic 750 injectors
safc v2
blitz fatt turbo timer.
aem tru boost controller and gauge

i realize this is a BIG wish list but its a project and it will take time i just need opinions on the set up and anything i may need to change

 

[93talon_dl]

forgot the pistons will be 20 over if stock pistons wont work let me know some to look at thanks again

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Is this for a 420A or a 1G N/T?

 

[93talon_dl]

1g turbo

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Ok, it's in the wrong section then. Thread moved.

 

[93talon_dl]

i know when will i be able to post anywhere?

 

[93ETGOCART]

after 50 posts you will become a proven member

 

[BogusSVO]

topline engine gasket and internal set from machv <-- Forget the pistons, if you go with aftermarket rods, get a good forged piston

eagle connecting rods<-- has arp rod bolts

crower stage 1 cams <--- why the small cams with such a build up?

crower valve springs and titanium retainers<---- I have used/installed a fair amount of them, Good product

ble solid lifters<-- Why? Hyd lash, with your cam selsection, no need for these, unless you just want to have to adjust your lash all the time.

topline rocker arms<--- Whats wrong with your OE ones you have now?

ferrea copper valve guides<---- I would not recomend them for a DD, if a full out race car ok

ferrea valve locks<---- ok,not a bad idea, other brands are out there for less

brian crower valves (std)<-- why STD? if buying new valves , may as well get the +1mm

arp main studs, rod bolts and head studs<--- thats all good, will not need rod bolt with the eagle rods, with mains, the block will have to be line honed

fidanza cam gears<---- good Idea

evo3 turbo with porting and upgraded wastegate flapper
evo3 ported manifold
evo3 o2 housing
full megan 3 in exhaust
3 in gm maf and maf translator
slowboy racing fmic
turbo xs type h bov
190 fuel pump
fic 750 injectors
safc v2
blitz fatt turbo timer.
aem tru boost controller and gauge

^^^^ for the rest, I am sure some one else will speak up, That I do not know enough of to talk about.

what head gasket? a MLS? or a stock composite? I would have to say get a MLS.
once you get closer to your build up, I will talk about the machine work you should have done.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Keep us posted though. I would like to see how it turned out!

 

[93talon_dl]

i chose stage one cam ### it is still goin to be a dd and my uncle who has done a few engine rebuild mainly big block chevys said a stage 2 would be a lil much for a dd i can get a stage 2 for the same price as one should i get a stage 2 set or what and what is some opinions about a crank scraperand what would be good as far as pistons go j e or wiseco?

 

[cyclonekid77]

Id go with a set of wiseco pistons. They are a very durable piston. Stage 2 cams should still be ok for the street also. I have the ffwd dks 272 combo in my dd and its ok. Idle is a little rumpy but definitely livable.

 

[93talon_dl]

i aint worried about the rumpy part the first time i heard it was on a talon and i liked the way it sounded and ill look for some wiseco then

 

[93talon_dl]

does anyone have any opinions about ross pistons?

 

[93talon_dl]

i have done some more reading on the ble solid lifters and this is what was said:

A solid lifter valvetrain is more consistent, opens to a greater extent, and closes faster than a hydraulic setup. This translates into better control of the valvetrain, as well as more duration spent at higher flow valve lifts. In essence, more high rpm power is found by eliminating the physical "collapse" (and resulting power loss) experienced by hydraulic lifters at certain rpm thresholds and valvespring pressure levels. The stronger your valve springs, the sooner this collapse will occur with hydraulics! Likewise, fluctuations in oil pressure will affect the operation of your hydraulic lifters, not so with this solid lifter conversion. As a result, the BLE Solid Lifters allow for higher spring pressures to be run, as well as, more aggressive camshaft lifts. So go ahead, REV IT UP!

i havent been able to find out about havin to adjust the lash all the time but that dont mean you dont have to i just tryin to figure all this out befor i start sinkin money into everything. and since im puttin a more aggressive cam and stronger springs would the stock lifters work or would the ble work if i dont have to adjust them

 

[BogusSVO]

I have built a few of the 1g heads, with the BC Springs & retainers, and the 3g HYD lifters, head has been on and running with no issuesfor over 10k miles, not a whole lot of miles, But no issues out of them.

Now on the chevy 350 engines I have built, its about every other week you have to adjust the the lash settings
Also The 2.3 Turbo ford thats in my ranger, I used upgraded springs, and went to a factory roller cam, The hyd lifters i put in my head 140k+ miles on them before the rebuild, and now about 30k after, no issues out of those lifters.

What you posted about the soild lifters is true, but on a DD, with small cams, or even the 272 BC or HKS cams, I have not heard of any issues with hyd lifters.

If this was a full out race engine, I would say use the solids, but with most of the miles your car will see, I would go HYD, just to cut down on the maitnance weekly or by-weekly.

ANY brand of forged pistons should work well for you. JE,Ross,Diamond,Mahle, But the popular ones I have been seen used most of on this board are the Wiseco.
The are all a good brand. All Have some sort of racing History.

I like Diamond Pistons, they will do customs for me, at a good price, and will alter the pistons for my choshing of ring land hights, withs, wrist pin placement...ect...

 

[93talon_dl]

k thanks alot hopefully soon i can start this project i cant wait to have a running dsm again

 

[93talon_dl]

what size bearings do i need to get? there are listed as std .10 .20 and .30 for the rod bearings and std .25 .50 and .75 for the main bearings. my pistons are goin to be .20 if that helps and is there any particular brand to look for or will any work

 

[DSMer541]

wait till you know what kind of shape your crank is in before you buy bearings.....the machine shop will let you know what size to get ....if they have to regrind it then you will need a .010+ bearing....i made the mistake of buying std size bearings assuming that my crank was fine, then found out it needed grinding and now i have to wait 2 weeks just to get my block finished because i had to send them back for different ones.....just a heads up

 

[93talon_dl]

o ok i appreciate that info and im sorry about that that has to suck i havent even tore into mine and im already wanting it back together thanks again