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Engine Pics, what do you think? *** PICS***

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Whats in between your intake manifold and your block?

Are you using that because you want a lower power band?


BTW this build is going to be pretty ####in evil. AS far as the engine bay goes I would do a wire tuck and shave the holes left from the old wires you reroute. One thing that would make this easier is if you use a db37 connector and run all the low power sensor wires through that.

I would also relocate the fuse box and remove the winshield wiper motors. Your probably wont want to remove those since its for street use and it snows there. Also, you can use longer hoses to relocate the brake fluid resovoir in the same place as the windshield wiper actuator arm assembly.

Good luck, looks good so far.
 
The problem that I found with the CSM/ alot of the dsm fuel tanks is that the opening for the stock fuel pump is that its not big enough to fit the two fuel pumps in at once... got me to thinking and saw a honda thread, and realized that I could make a unit that I dropped them in seperately... I started with the fuel pump sending unit itself, there was a huge basket that held the fuel pump so the first thing I did was chopped EVERYTHING off and welded all the holes shut.. basically all I had left from the sending unit was a flat piece of metal and the stock fuel feed lind that I chose to use as the stock return...

It looked something like this.

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from there I found where I was going to mount the pumps, the stock pump on a csm sits about 8.7 inches into the tank, so I knew I was going to want to mount the pumps at about 8 inches fromt the top of the sending unit...

I than found the general location where I wanted to put the pump. drilled the two holes for the bulkhead and the wires and put the bulkheads in.

the top of the sending unit turned out to look like this...
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than came to figuring out how to put each pump in seperately but make the two pumps able to be connected to the fuel sending unit once they were dropped into the tank I came up with this...

when not on the sending unit this is what the pieces looked like

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but that when connected by two bolts to the fuel sending unit the two pumps looked like this

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I took the original plugs for the fuel pump, shortened the stock wires to about 2 inches, and soldered 8 feet of 12 gauge wire to each of them to connect to my relay for the re wire...

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you can see from the previous picture that I ran a rubber grommit through the sending unit, thats where the wires will go, I chose to run my ground/power wires outside the tank and think that it will be easier to mess with them outside the tank...

heres how I put it together inside the tank...

first drop the first fuel pump in

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push that one out of the way and your ready to drop in the next one!

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move than pull them together, tighten the lines to the 2 bulkheads and it will look like this

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tighten everything down, run the wires through the grommit.. and you have yourself a badass twin walbro setup!!!
 

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Nice project bro looks clean and is coming along well. Can't wait to see her up and running and see how she does.
 
that looks so mean man props on the build can't wait to hear how it runs on the street
 
Sooooooooooooo how bout them pics:sneaky: LOL

The weekend was pretty relaxing with not a ton of work.

I am learning quickly about saving money, stopped by the 2nd lap ( used ) loopty loop store to find a good deal on a 50 micron -8 12 inch log fuel filter... the thing is to big to really fit somewhat efficiently in the engine bay, it is LITERALLY that tall... got a hell of a deal on it 29.99.

along with a fuel cell with a broken cap, ( cosmetic blemish) its a 4 gallon cell, picked it up for like 65.00 bucks

along with -10 catch can for another 25.00. hooked me up with the fittings for dirt cheap, and ran out of there giving summit, jegs, and the other big guys a big middle finger!

I stopped by LOWES and had to pick up a couple materials to make some ingenious straps for my intercooler res. setup... spent like 11 bucks on 2, 12 inch pieces of threaded round bar, and two 4 foot sections of flat bar to make the straps...

along with 30 feet of 5/8 heater hose to get the job done on getting the fluid there, and returning it at the lowest possible pressure.

here is the bilge pump setup in the 4 gallon Cell.

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Feed on the left, return with about 6 inches of hose on it to keep the hot water flowing away from the feed side

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Started with the flat bar heated it up and started to mold it.. turned out something like this...

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I think it turned out pretty well.

The Feed and return at first were goign to be run inside the car and through the cabin, but that idea quickly changed when you realize that the lines are 1 inch OD. so I drilled two holes in the trunk and went to town. with running the lines.

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you can also see the wiring for the fuel pumps ran through the trunk also..

Lastly Welded the -8 fitting on the feed side of the fuel rail, and -6 on the return side and got the fuel line mounted, and the Huge log fuel filter underneath the car.

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I was skeptical at first to mount something like this underneath the car, but the frame rail tucks it nicely.

Yes the Air to Water lines coming through the hatch will get a grommit.
 

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That thing is going to be an animal...i like the purple but it doesn't match the red LOL.
 
The goal for the car is now to get it on the ROD RUN cruise which is april 12th.

I am going to work my Ass off to get it done by than, stay tuned for updates!
Andrew.
 
The car is back sitting on all 4 tires on the ground and its nice :) Last night I pulled the car out and powder coated the intercooler piping and fuel rail, it is extremely time consuming but glad to get it out of the way. Now all that is left to be powder coated is the compressor cover again...

Snapped a couple pics of the g-ride last night, I think it looks good. What about you guys?

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My favorite, my girlfriend said its a pic of her two boyfriends LOL.

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I'm still going to do my best to have the car running by the fifteenth of April, and hopefully seeing the dyno in may.
 

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