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Engine overhaul

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10+ Year Contributor
2,123
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Aug 11, 2009
Allentown, Pennsylvania
I am at the point where I am starting to wrap up my stock rebuild. I just have a few questions.

1. Do I have to run that special tranny fluid from the dealer?

2. After I start the car for the first time, do I have to then go back and re torque the head bolts?

3. What is a good break in oil for the 420a?

When using the paper gaskets like on the oil pump do I also need sealant ?
 
I am at the point where I am starting to wrap up my stock rebuild. I just have a few questions.

1. Do I have to run that special tranny fluid from the dealer?
No, but its recommended to avoid any problems. people end up spending more money by not going with the OEM fluids, and after they do its already too late.

2. After I start the car for the first time, do I have to then go back and re torque the head bolts?
YES. follow your FSM. I believe its like 50 miles or so. best if you verify the manual.

3. What is a good break in oil for the 420a?
Normally "break-in" Oil is not used but the answer to your question is: Any zinc enriched oil. brad penn oil, or lucas oil, sells "break in OIL")

When using the paper gaskets like on the oil pump do I also need sealant ?
NO, no sealant is required, you must ensure both sides (block and pump housing) are completely dry and free of any oil or chemical to promote a secure seal just make sure you use some sort of a good torque pattern, dont go torquing it clockwise all around for example( it wont seat properly and it will leak).
 
1. Do I have to run that special tranny fluid from the dealer?

2. After I start the car for the first time, do I have to then go back and re torque the head bolts?

3. What is a good break in oil for the 420a?

When using the paper gaskets like on the oil pump do I also need sealant ?
NVT started recommending standard ATF+4 fluid recently, so you don't have to actually buy the stuff from the dealer.

I never re-torqued the head bolts (though I did upgrade to ARP studs), and I used the cheapest conventional oil I could find to break the engine in. I basically followed Corbin's guide:

2GNT.com - A_Proper_Rebuild

What paper gasket on the oil pump are you thinking of? The only "gaskets" down there are an O-ring and the front main seal. The surface of the oil pump that mates to the block should be sealed with anaerobic sealant.
 
VelocitàPaola;153058954 said:
NVT started recommending standard ATF+4 fluid recently, so you don't have to actually buy the stuff from the dealer.

I never re-torqued the head bolts (though I did upgrade to ARP studs), and I used the cheapest conventional oil I could find to break the engine in. I basically followed Corbin's guide:

2GNT.com - A_Proper_Rebuild

What paper gasket on the oil pump are you thinking of? The only "gaskets" down there are an O-ring and the front main seal. The surface of the oil pump that mates to the block should be sealed with anaerobic sealant.

that shows how much I know about 420a.

I guess I should steer clear from these threads... lesson learned.
 
Alex, no retorqueing necessary. But I'm concerned about the "paper gaskets" that you might have used on the oil pump. That should have been metal to metal surface and anaerobic sealant. Introducing paper to that area may develop a leak (as well as that type of sealant is normally used when they don't want any "dimension" between to parts).

MB
 
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