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Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

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eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
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I bought a 95 TSi fwd 5spd the other day. Well today I got the car to start with it being in neutral because the clutch isnt working at all. But the car wont idle or stay on. The min it starts, it dies. Now, when it does start I hear alot of clunking going on, but it dont sound like the motor.

When I got the car, the kid said the clutch went out but the motor was solid. He showed me a few videos of it idle and also driving and it sounded good. He said it just stopped shifting into gear because the clutch pedal was gone.

I poped his hood and noticed right away he ran the hydrolic fluid bone dry, which I think destroyed the slave cylinder. Well today I got the car to start and its hard to start. If you turn the key you get the click once and hear pump kick on. But if you keep turning key ON, you will eventually start it to see that it will just die. keep turning key until it starts. Its almost like the flywheel hs busted teeth and when I catch teeth it starts, and then you hear the clunking going on.

My question is, should it matter if the clutch/flywheel is ####ed up? It should still at least idle if the motor was good am I correct?
 
Well the clutch is connected to the flywheel so if the clutch is effd then it might make a decent amount of noise when it turns over. I think you have two different problems here though. The clutch is definitely one problem but o don't see a bad clutch keeping your car from idling. That somis to me like a fuel or ignition problem. Check your plugs, make sure they are bpr6s ngk's and make sure they are capped to .028 and no larger. It could also be a fuel pump problem. Do a fuel pressure test too.

Hope that helps.



Taylor
 
posting a video would help if you could

I would love to do a video, but it dies instantly. I did a gravity bleed today on my clutch and thats all good, but still NO CLUTCH. I was told you can start a manual carby just putting in neutral and just turn key. I did and it started and sounded ok. But then started again this time ready to keep it running, and i tryed to use the clutch to start it, thats when I heard all the banging weird noise.

Trust me is not a rod knock or anything like that. Its loud like a rod knock, but it def sounds like something is clunking around and keeping it from staying run.
 
pull the tranny off. Can you move the clutch fork around by hand. Its possible thats broken.

how do I test what your talking about? I will try it now my hood is open. you talking about what the slave cylinder is suppose to push against?

sorry for the newbness

when in the car you shift it, and you dont hear or feel ANY binding.
 
The clutch being shot should have nothing to do with the car dying while in neutral. Even know he showed you videos of the car running he might of had a issue prior to clutch going out. LikeI was saying over the phone try and make a video. Ask a friend/roomateor someone to record while you crank it over, post it on here and we can better help you. The clunking noise could be broken pressure play, flywheel, or maybe the disk its self. You said something about him having torev it at 1500/2000 for a few mins and the noise would go away. Whatever that noise is/was revingit at that rpm and holding it most likly caused more damage, possible chewed up internal parts of the tranny.
 
yep thats it. You could also have a friend push in the clutch while you watch the fork to see if anything odd happens.

not 100% this is what it is, just an idea.

ok, I was able to move the fork up and down a little. Im not sure if its suppose to have any play in it. Now when I pushed it with my thumb to compress the slave, the piston would slowly retract back against the fork. When I pushed the fork (waiting for the slave to retract), I was able to move side to side and up and down, but not sloppy crazy, but enough. :confused:
 
could be alot of things. whats gonna happen at some point is that tranny is gonna come off more then likey and your gonna have a peek in and see whats going on.
 
I guess i will call Joe at slowboyracing again.

Ok got a small video of it running obviously. Now I havea NEW slave and NEW master, but at this point not properally adjusted. Look at the video, when the clutch is engauged, it makes a rubbing noise, and you can SEE THE TRANS MOVING AWAY FROM ENGINE. does this mean too much pressure on the pressure plate?

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2 weeks ago i started my 94 eclipse GS 2.0 to an abrupt wrapping noise, diagnosed to to be a bent valve so i bought a new head and installed it. I did the install in 0 degree weather and finished it this evening, changed the oil and started it with no harmonic balancer or drive belt just to test run it. (did crank it over with cam angle sensor unplugged till oil light went off) It has a moderate "ticking" noise still which i expected to go away after the lifters build oil pressure. I only let it run for about 10 minutes, with the severe cold perhaps i should have let it run longer? any suggestions as a possible direction would be appreciated, I do plan on doing a compression test and my bottom end looked fine/ no dents cracks or shine marks on the pistons or scoring on the cylinder walls. New timing belt, balance shaft belt, and tensioners/idler, plugs and wire have about 5k on them NGK plats.
 
being that cold out and not letting the motor run until operating temperature could cause the lifter tick. also, bleeding the lifters wouldnt be a bad idea if they were dry.
 
Bolt on the dampener so you don't walk the timing belt off the engine and destroy everything you just did. also so that you can run the alternator and water pump . then warm it up and keep an eye on the oil pres. and listen to see if the ticking goes away. sometimes it takes a bit to stop ticking.
 
Looks like the block is trying to sepperate from the tranny. Make sure all the bolts are tight or all there for that matter. Its looks like the flywheel is hitting the walls of the tranny when clutch is pushed in. I know it sounds stupid but its worth ashot and takes 2 mins to do.
 
Looks like the block is trying to sepperate from the tranny. Make sure all the bolts are tight or all there for that matter. Its looks like the flywheel is hitting the walls of the tranny when clutch is pushed in. I know it sounds stupid but its worth ashot and takes 2 mins to do.

X2.
First thing I saw was that movement. And that movement should 100% not be there.
 
X2.
First thing I saw was that movement. And that movement should 100% not be there.

Yeah I called him after he PMed me with the video. No way there should be any movment. Its not the tranny moving af far as I see its block movment. Loose bolts are about the only thing I can think of for that kinda movment(well bad motor mount with loose bolts)
 
hey im missing 1 bolt under the termostat housing. Then I noitced the bolt by the slave cylinder didnt look tight. I put my socket on it, and it was WAY loose. I pulled it out by hand and saw the metal shavings from the block wrapped around 3 coils on the bolt. JuGs suggested I just get another bolt longer and a little skinnier and just washers and a nut. With what you hear noise wise, so you think that could be all my problem?
 
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