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engine issue! needs advice please!

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DSMhenry

Probationary Member
4
0
Aug 7, 2012
Trenton, ON, Canada
Hello all, my name is justin and i have recently purchased a 1991 eagle talon tsi. little did i know there was an engine problem, cylinder 2 and 4 have lost their compression and thats the issue the garage said... at first i thought it was the turbo so i put a BIG 16g turbo in replace and a new gasket kit... also flushed the intercooler, now i know its thats cylinder 2 and 4 have lost their compression... I got a quote from a garage for an engine rebuild and it was $2500 for rebuild, $1500 for install - i find this ####ing rediculous, the installation i think i can do myself but as fixing the issue or the rebuild id need someone to do that...

MORAL OF THE STORY
-Cylinder 2 & 4 have lost compression, how can i fix this? and much should it cost? or should i do a complete rebuild, if i did a cylinder head rebuild would that fix it?

THANKS:confused:
 
Pull the top timing belt cover off.

See if it is a brand new belt installed.

The PO, may have had a busted timing belt, and installed a new one.

The 4g is an interferance engine, so you may have a few bent valves.

WES is correct in saying a do a leak down test.
 
White smoke is usually indicative of coolant being burned but it might not necessarily be coming from your headgasket. Do a compression and leak-down test first as suggested and then look at your options.

For the compression test you can purchase a kit for ~30. For the leak down test if you don't have a quality kit you can take it to a garage. Make sure they know you mean leak down test and not a compression test, they are different. A compression test measures the amount of pressure your engine generates, a leak down test measures how much pressure your engine can hold. A leak down test is best for diagnosing head gasket failures.

If indeed you do need to rebuild your engine be aware of everything that goes into such a process:
  • 1g OEM pistons go for about $85-$100 / piston = $400 total
  • Hastings Piston Rings = $100
  • 1g Rods and crank will need to be inspected for damage, it is best to have your shop do this as they could have micro cracks that are not visible to the human eye as well as anything that might be out of round.
  • Depending on the condition of your crank and rod bearings, if you're tearing apart I would replace them if they have a lot of miles on them, main and rods = $140
  • Depending on if you bent your valves, ~$8 / valve = $128
  • Bending valves can distort the valve guides and/or valve seats. This would require a trip to the machine shop to re-align the guides and inspect the seats could be up to $200
  • Valve stem seals = $40
  • Headgasket = $150 for MLS
  • You will most likely need atleast a cylinder hone which isn't that expensive ~25 total
  • All new timing components = ~$350
So parts alone you're looking at a MINIMUM of $1500 depending on brand of parts. (I'm sure there's something I'm forgetting here).

That's just parts alone. Now let's talk about tools you would need if you were to attempt this yourself:

Machinist calipers, micrometers, bore gauge, ring grinder, dial calipers, timing belt tensioner tools.

Now granted you could have the shop that does your machine work measure everything out, but when I built my engine I didn't trust any of the machine work the shop did and I measured my pistons, rods, crank, cams, piston to wall, piston to deck clearance during my install. And if you're building a motor, you should care about all of these being in spec too. That is unless you want to waste $1500...

Good quality, accurate tools (.0001") are extremely expensive. You will probably spend at least the amount you're spending in parts to purchase all the tools you need (assuming you don't have the tools).

I am not trying to discourage you from attempting to rebuild your engine if you need to, I saved up to purchase all the tools I needed and I did countless reading about the building process before I attempted my build. I'm just trying to provide a glimpse of everything you need to think about before just deciding, "I'm going to re-build it myself".
 
White smoke? No compression? easy way to see if you need a new head gasket, witch is what i think it is, is to take off your radiator cap and then start your car or if your car dosent run just have someone turn it over and watch your antifreeze if you see bubbles thats your problem
 
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