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engine idle surges after FIAV by pass plate installed

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Initial DSM

20+ Year Contributor
903
1
Jan 30, 2003
97 Eclipse gsx, New York
hey guys i just blocked off my fiav i posted a pic up ..where its shadded red i closed the hole with some j-b weld..is this the right hole to close and do i have to close any more i got this right from this web site

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/flow.shtml


after blocking off the fiav i installed the t-b back on the car and it doesnt seem to idle right not sure why ...does anyone know what to set the tps volts too?

and anyone having luck removing half the t-b and bolting on a plate to eliminate the isc and fiav? thanks

my car is a 92 laser awd turbo
 

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I Installed a JM FIAV bypass valve keeping the idle motor and after I installed it all the car wants to do is surge? Even with the BISS all the way in problem still exists. Surges from 1400 to 1600.
Is there another gasket to go on the other side of the bypass plate or is one not needed? I sprayed brake clean around that area and get no reaction from the motor indicating there is no leak.
I did not reset my computer yet and will be getting DSM link next week but I thought that the FIAV just gives the motor a 1500 rpm warm up thats it. Why the surge?? Thanks for any comments.
 
I think my ISC is bad its real noisy and who knows how old it is. I ordered a new one and will keep you guys informed on what I find.
 
with the ignition key in the "ON" position with the engine NOT running the volts should be .48V-.52V with the throttle plate closed.

-Richard Silva-
'93 :talon: Talon TSi
 
What ever happened to your problem?

-Richard Silva-
'93 :talon: Talon TSi

Sorry I have not gotten back with you guys. But good news I did fix the problem but not real sure. I got a used FIAV (bottom half of throttle body) from steve at throttlebodys.com. And Im sure that was the problem I had a bad FIAV leaking air in some how? My original ICS is ok and now using it. I did try a new 91-94 ISC and had problems for some reason so I put my old 90 back in and now its fine.
I did install the FIAV bypass plate and eliminated the coolant lines and now the car starts hits 1900 and then comes down right away like it should cold Idle is at 1300 rpm and hot idle is at 900 solid.
It was a real disaster trying to find the problem when you find nothing wrong. It had to be in the throttle budy some were.
 
and anyone having luck removing half the t-b and bolting on a plate to eliminate the isc and fiav? thanks

my car is a 92 laser awd turbo


I did it to mine a little over a year ago. I have about 8k miles on it now with no problems. My ISC was junk when I bought tthe car, and I don't drive it in the winter so.....

It does idle a little low at start up, but the car gets to temp so quick that its not an issue really.....it may stall while backing out of the garage but thats about it. Once its warm it holds good right at 9-950rpms. I tend to turn the idle up just a little bit in the late fall when its colder out and then back down again as summer gets going....in fact I just turned it down a bit today since 1k is a bit much idle wise. Its also nice as far as idle adjustment since you don't have to ground out the ISC, just turn the screw and you're done!
 
Bringing this back from the dead...

I've been running a bypass plate (FIAV blocked only, retains ISC) for a few months which solved a problem of having high idle (+2k) right when starting the car up. It worked wonders for a few months, but now I have that high idle occurring after the car reaches operating temperature.

To try to resolve this I purchased a blockoff plate which then blocks off both the ISC and the FIAV and tried it out. It started up fine, but it died instantly a second after it started up. I then tried it a few more times with the same result, and then I rode the gas for about 20 seconds one instance and let off. It struggled to idle at around 100-200 rpms and eventually died.

Now I didn't really give it a chance to fully warm up (the needle was probably right above the first notch), but if I were to just ride the gas to prevent it from stalling until it was warmed up, would it then idle on its own?
 
UPDATE

I think I might have solved it by simply giving the TB cable some slack. For about a year now I had the cable adjusted as tight as I could have it without a reading showing up on my Pocketlogger. Apparently the cable would heat up and keep the TB open somewhat causing the high idle. I will let you guys know how this goes.
 
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