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Engine Cranks but no Spark and battery drain

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And_44

10+ Year Contributor
835
8
Feb 13, 2010
Marysville, Washington
Well,

I purchased an 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. When i purchased it the previous owner said it was running up till a few days before the purchase. And that he was able to crank engine but wasn't getting any spark to the plugs. Well after a 300 mile tow back to my place, I pulled battery because it was dead and took it to get charged, when i got Shucks to charge it they did their test and found that there was a internal crack or break inside long story short the batter was junk. So I purchased a new battery. Took it home installed it engine cranks everything lights up but still no spark. I removed the Ignition coil that night and was gonna swap it in morning with a new one and a new Ignition Module. Well the next day I come out swap them and hop in to try to start the beast and absolutely no charge what so ever, even the dash lights weren't dim it was dead dead. Battery is now on charger, and gonna install it to see if I can get it started with the new coil and module. But I fear that something is shorting out somewhere to cause the drain while ignition is off. Could a short somewhere cause the drain and at same time no spark? My next culprits are the ECU, crank/cam sensors. But other then those I can't explain the battery drain, well I can explain a batter drain, but could it also cause the no spark?

The upgrades done before purchase and only ones on car are a new turbo with Stage 1 turbine, 3" exhaust, new larger injectors with a new head, and intake manifold. And the repairs done before purchase are new cv axles, tierod ends, clutch and flywheel. The car was running well after all these were done to it.

Thanks in advance for any useful help, any at all really.

Update:

I got the battery installed after a full charge. I had fiancee try to start it while i'm standing over engine bay. It cranks like it did before, and sounds like it's trying to start but just can't. But when you stop cranking, right after it makes a weird grinding/whirling noise guessing from starter.

I've been looking around and thinking that maybe the starter may be draining my battery but could it still drain it with car in off. Battery is unhooked now(save me the charging trip). But I will pull the starter and take it in to get tested. Could the electrical part of starter cause no spark though?(well maybe if the electrical charge is being lost before hitting the coil and such?) The starter cranks the engine. And the Spark plugs appear fresh almost new. Same with the NGK wires, inspected wires for cracks and such really good condition. When i pulled a plug and checked for a spark the other day there was the smell and also could see the fuel spray from that cylinder.

Okie, did some closer inspection and found that there is sensor right next to the knock sensor on the back side of engine driver side under intake manifold. It is located inbound of the knock sensor and it has burned itself like a fuse for a bomb(it's completely gone). The wire leads to the mounting bracket for the vacuum lines with a wire connection that connect to the wire harness for coil and ignition module. I was told by a mechanic that looked at it that it was the crankshaft sensor BUT it appears to be a small 1inch sensor that screws into the head. It's extremely hard to reach but maybe with a few curse words and banged knuckles i can get to it. Could someone help me find out what the heck it is so i know what to ask for when looking for replacement?

Well second guessing but maybe it is the knock sensor. Could the missing wire prevent the engine from giving spark to plugs? The battery drain is probaly the altenator which is gonna get replaced anyway.

Got some pictures. One is of what is left of the wire. The other shows the knock sensor(which is indeed intact) with the mystery sensor to the right of it.
 

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the knock sensor wont cause a no start to my understanding but will cause a CEL , in order to see wut is draining ## battery u must do a paricidic (might be spelled wrong ) load test (removing fuses and checking draw with key off ,using a multimeter) in the owners manual of the multimeter it tells you how to perform this test ( atleast mine does LOL). As for no spark if u got the new coil on and nothing still, find out wut sends power to the coil and check that next.
 
Well found out why i wasn't getting the beast started. My ECU fried itself. Not sure what did it but I took some pictures of the board. I got a new one thank goodness it wasn't hard to find a 1990 ECU, But here are the pics I was told that maybe something on the Throttle body may have sent the charge to blow the board BUT i have yet been able to find a schematic of the board lay out and what it what. If anyone has any experience with it let me know PLEASE. The pics are a bit blurry but give the general location. Looks like ground zero is a small chip right at the base of the green thing on the heat sink. It don't look pretty.

Well found a perfect picture off of ECMtuning.com website. Mine is the EXACT same chip that blew up but looks ALOT worse. But is the same. Could i install a new ECU with good caps and not worry about this happening again?

http://www.ecmtuning.com/images/forums/ecurepair/corrosion-example-02-3.jpg
 

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Installed a new ECU,

Hooked it all up and when I turned the key to the On position(not to start) I start getting a rapid ticking noise from the ECU. I know that it has to do with either the Fuel Injectors or something on the Throttle body I'm just not sure which. I heard ticking for just a few seconds and immediatly switch off and unplugged battery. I don't believe i damage the new ECU any, but what would cause the rapid ticking noise like that a relay yes but what relay is controlled on the ECU? And will it tick rapidly like that?

Fixed it. Replaced ECU Fuel Injector relay and unplugged the ISC. Started up after a few cranks. BUT now got an oil leak somewhere. LOL Well getting step by step closer to having a fun toy. Can someone make this post resolved?
 
i have like the same problem..i had the car stated before then pulled the head off to replace it.. and when i put it back together i was getting no spark.
 
Hey, my 96 is havin the same problem after new head gasket and timing belt. How much was the new ECU?
 
I was able to pick up my replacement ECU off of Craigslist, guy sold it to me for 50 bucks, and got a deal. He wrecked his Talon and got insurance pay out on it so was just parting it out. It's a DSMlink but just has the socket but no chip though;( Oh and the cable and all that other stuff;(
 
I'm new to dsms and i know these are a different beast from hondas. I'm having a no spark problem as well and i'm just wondering what are the first places i should look... my car has a rought idle when it ran and sputtered between 2500-3300 rpm... i don't know if it's linked but i'm kinda hoping it is...
 
I'm new to dsms and i know these are a different beast from hondas. I'm having a no spark problem as well and i'm just wondering what are the first places i should look... my car has a rought idle when it ran and sputtered between 2500-3300 rpm... i don't know if it's linked but i'm kinda hoping it is...

i would start by checking the cam angle sensor. also have you done a complete tune up to it?
 
Wow, this was a long time ago but just found out about the "Solved" button.

The ECU I bought that was ticking worked and made the car run, BUT the caps in it were on way out as it fried itself a few weeks later.

Picked up another ECU and put it in ran great, replaced those caps eventually a few months before I sold car.

After a year owning the 90 finding out the in's and out's of no start issues had plenty with this beast.
 
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