Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[Suparata]

Originally posted by TSIfreek
Before you first start the motor fill the oil filter up completly before you put it on and crank the motor with the ignition disconected to get the oil in the oil pump and thew the engine some. All it takes is about 5 seconds then hook up the ignition and start it up. Mostly leave it Idle but it doesnt hurt to pick the rpm up to about 2000 for 10 seconds to get the oil flowing at good pressure. Leave it run for a good 10- 15 min before changeing the oil again. That oil and temp gauges will be your best friends while the engine is running so keep and eye on them. Dont beat on the car until after about 500 miles to be safe so everything has a chance to seat in properly after that back to those 6500 RPM shifts.

Almost right!
First make sure you prime the engine by pressurizing the oil system using a pressurized oil reservoir. The cranking method is far from best but if you are doing it like that remove the spark plugs before cranking.
After start DO NOT IDLE .

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by onegee
i coulda swore there was a thread JUST like this 3 days ago. Defiant locked it and gave 6 more threads with the same question. this page has been beaten to death many times.

He'd have gone and done it again, except he doesn't have the horsepower in this forum. Damn the luck.

 

[mustg5]

what do you mean...DO NOT IDLE....after you crank it to get the oil pressure up....what rpm should u run it at?

 

[Suparata]

Originally posted by mustg5
what do you mean...DO NOT IDLE....after you crank it to get the oil pressure up....what rpm should u run it at?

1700-2000RPM.

 

[mustg5]

I have a new 6 bolt in my 2g. There is alot of mods done to it such as 20g turbo, rebuilt block, ported head, 3in exhaust, FMIC, external oil cooler, external wastegate....ect. My question is, if i am just going to be driving it at stock boost, and below 4000rpm or so while i am breaking it in, do i need to tune with with an AFC and data logger, or can that wait until I turn up the boost and the motor is broken in??

 

[1fast97gsx]

I would tune it with a datalogger at least. Seems that during break in is when you would want it running it's best.

 

[3literpwr]

Breaking in your motor slow and low is a waste of your time!
Those old tips are out dated and pertain the the old v-8 of the 50s-60s
There is plent of info showing that a quick hard breakin is better on the motor in the long run..... The most inportant thing is to not let it idle in your garage!!!!!!!!

go to this webpage and follow the instructions.....


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


best of luck
Larry Parker

 

[biglipps66]

Drive it like you stole it. Rings seat in the first 20mins

Buschur breaks in all his motors and customers motors on the dyno

 

[1fast97gsx]

How would you guys go about breaking in this motor? The technique I was going to use was just to beat the shit out of it for 20 miles or so ( not redlining or anything but just sudden bursts of acceleration and de-acceleration ) and then go to the dyno and have it tuned. The motor is Ross pistons with eagle rods, new oem bearings, hks 272, hks valvesprings, arp headstuds, metal headgasket, and a t3/t4 60-1 with fmic. The only thing is I have a 2600 with a 6 puck and I don't know if the whole beating the shit out of the car is a good idea becuase of all the pressure on the crank from the pressure plate. Will it be MORE LIKELY to crankwalk if I break it in with this approach? I know the chance is there and this is a risky build, but I'm ONLY wondering if it will be MORE LIKELY to CW if I don't just drive is slow for 500 miles or so. I'd rather get it to the dyno as fast as possible because I don't want to drive it untuned for so long. Thanks for your help

 

[NOSNUSE]

This has been argued for a long time, personally if it is going to be your daily driver then drive it slow and allow the breakin period of around 1000 miles or so, beating the hell out of a car(in my opinion) is only for cars that will see track duty only and will be rebuild often. Just my $.02 though. I am sure others will have a differnet view though.

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

A good thing to do when you first start it up before driving it hold it at 1500rpms for about 10-15 mins then do about 1000 miles of no boost and low rpms (ideal 2k-3k no boost driving) With all that and a maitained motor youll be set good luck.
Andrew

 

[1fast97gsx]

ok yea I think I'm going to break it in for about 500 miles or so and then take it to the dyno. When should I switch over to synthetic oil? After 1000 miles or so?

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

I would run synthetic from the get go...when I build up a 6 bolt Im going red line synthetic.
Andrew

 

[1fast97gsx]

I thought you were supposed to do that so the rings will seal?

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
I thought you were supposed to do that so the rings will seal?

You need to run conventional oil for the first bunch of break in miles. Synthetic is too slick and will not break in the rings properly. Depending on what clearances are used to build your motor that could or may not be a problem. Either way run 1000miles on conventional oil changing it 3 or 4 times through the process then switch to synthetic.

 

[Suparata]

Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
I thought you were supposed to do that so the rings will seal?

That is correct. Breaking-in the engine means seating the rings all around . It is done by "filing" them with the peaks in the crosshatching on the cyl walls. Clearances have nothing to do with this procedure: surface finish according to the type of the rings used is what matters. Clearances are set for engine operation and not for break-in the rings and they shouldn't change at break-in. Crosshatch have Peak and Valleys and after the break-in period the peaks are not that "peak" anymore and the rings should be sealing all around.
If Synthetic is used from the get-go the "filing" operation is not as efficient and those peaks disappear before the rings get round .

Mitch.

 

[adam355]

I just got my car back from being rebuilt and am wonder what you guys suggest for breaking it in. I was told from the mechanic to just take it easy city driving and not let the RPMs go over 3 grand for about 500 miles. What do you guys suggest?

 

[xcelr8n]

do what he says, same with clutch etc..

 

[adam355]

Should I drive it on the highway at all? Or is that bad?

 

[xcelr8n]

no you can drive it on the highway, just dont rip on it.

 

[jmc94gsx]

Highway driving is great to break it in, steady RPM over time. Do as he says, as you break it in more you can slowly bring up the RPM's little by little. I recommend changing your oil after a couple 100 miles to remove any small metal fragments, and use dino oil for the break in.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by jmc94gsx
Highway driving is great to break it in, steady RPM over time.

GOD NO!!!! Continuously varying speeds and loads for the first 300, at least. Keep the heat moving around in the assembly, don't do any more "steady-state" running than you have to.

However, this has already been beaten to death:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=56188&highlight=breakin

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65554&highlight=breakin

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75638&highlight=breakin

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=82689&highlight=breakin

And don't try to break it in on synthetic oil. It seems to be the only valid story there is about synthetic.

 

[Turbo 2g awd]

What weight oil do you guys use to break in your new motors. I am putting a built 6 Bolt in my car and wanted to know if I should break it in with 20w50 or 20w40 or just start it off with 10w30 like I will always be using. And yes I will be using Dino oil.

 

[NDgsx]

10w30, 20w50 doesn't like the cam journal tolerances IME.

 

[Defiant]

Modern motors, because of the metals and the tolerances, just don't much need break-in oil. I'd go straight to the 10W-30.

And kudos for you decision to use regular old oil.