Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[JonsTsi]

hi. i recently installed a 16g on my 90 tsi. shortly after the engine started burning oil bad. result = 2 broke pistons (too much boost?). anyways, i was woundering what is recomended for boost levels and rpm limits with new pistons & rings during the break-in. thanks

 

[DSMSpyder99]

i would recommend stock boost level for at least 1,000 miles. Also dont "get happy" with ur right foot too.

 

[TurboTerror]

Upon first start-up let it come up to temp then start driving. No more than 2K rpm for the first 200miles, no more than 3K for the next 200miles, no more than 4500 for the next 200miles. Change oil. Once you get to the 600 mile mark go ahead and start putting some pressure into it, no more than like 5 or 6 psi until around 1K - 1200 miles. Change oil. once you hit that point you should be fine to start driving on it like normal. Resume your normal oil change interval and everything. I have done this break in on 3 different motors now and have NEVER had any problems with failure on them. Just also make sure that during the break in you stay off the interstate, no consant speeds like that. Make sure you vary the load with stop and go, city street kinda driving. Break it in like I said and you won't have any problems with it.

 

[RipperXX]

^^ damn I was thinking just dont boost for the first 500miles and dont go past 4,000rpm


Something funny though, a good friend of mine just had his 300zx's NA V6 rebuilt.. TIGHT as hell. I think there was only .001 clearance! and with only 60miles on it he goes and race's a 97 GS Eclipse... up to 130mph...

He was just all "it's so hard not to play with it" and it tuck him like 6 months to rebuild it!!! I have not talked to him lately as my rid had some structal damage (ditch's tend to do that) but it wouldn't suprise me if he has blown the new engine.

 

[Groomz]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Might want to check this site out. Thought it was useful.

 

[talon16g]

im gettin a centerforce stage one clutch and and 16g and a new totally rebuilt stock engine for my talon. i was wondering how long i should let it break in
thans ryan

 

[TurBoGs-T]

I read somewhere 500 is the recommended. So i would go 750

 

[DSMWillyb]

Yup, at a minimum 500 miles...

 

[arffy]

Drive 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. Change the oil and oil filter. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles.

 

[bluetsi64]

I just did a 6-bolt swap on my 95 awd(eagle/J.E. 9.1 combo with chromoly rings). anyway i want to know some good instructions on breaking in a new motor. thanks Joe M

 

[TSIfreek]

Before you first start the motor fill the oil filter up completly before you put it on and crank the motor with the ignition disconected to get the oil in the oil pump and thew the engine some. All it takes is about 5 seconds then hook up the ignition and start it up. Mostly leave it Idle but it doesnt hurt to pick the rpm up to about 2000 for 10 seconds to get the oil flowing at good pressure. Leave it run for a good 10- 15 min before changeing the oil again. That oil and temp gauges will be your best friends while the engine is running so keep and eye on them. Dont beat on the car until after about 500 miles to be safe so everything has a chance to seat in properly after that back to those 6500 RPM shifts.

 

[twenty5psi]

if something is going to break,it sure as hell wont wait for 500 miles to pass by..id go out and do some nice wot pulls at lower boost..i dont believe in the whole baby it thing..most of the time when things break it is due to the mechanic or machine shop that put the engine together..not because the rings and seals dont seat properly..

 

[TSIfreek]

Originally posted by twenty5psi
if something is going to break,it sure as hell wont wait for 500 miles to pass by..id go out and do some nice wot pulls at lower boost..i dont believe in the whole baby it thing..most of the time when things break it is due to the mechanic or machine shop that put the engine together..not because the rings and seals dont seat properly..

I agree completly about if its going to break it will do it or it wont. The main rason I told him to take it easy is that I have no Idea how much boost he is runing and his fuel program set up if he has one. WOT at low boost is fine just not 6000 rpm 5000 at the most to give it a good break in. As I think about it the boost will acually help the rings seat quicker. but dont get caried away with the boost level. Just keep an eye on you oil pressure and temp and you should be fine. EVERYONE HAPPY??

 

[twenty5psi]

Originally posted by TSIfreek
I agree completly about if its going to break it will do it or it wont. The main rason I told him to take it easy is that I have no Idea how much boost he is runing and his fuel program set up if he has one. WOT at low boost is fine just not 6000 rpm 5000 at the most to give it a good break in. As I think about it the boost will acually help the rings seat quicker. but dont get caried away with the boost level. Just keep an eye on you oil pressure and temp and you should be fine. EVERYONE HAPPY??

ehh,im always happy..but yeah,i would still do what you suggested though for the start up and all,just keep the boost at a safe level,not insanely high and keep an eye on knock and such like usual..you should be fine..like i said before,the weak link,if one,will be with the machining and or the mechanic who put it together..enjoy the comp ratio!..ill be running that sometime in the future here..

 

[Ryan H]

My research tells me the best way to break in an engine and get the rings seated properly is to do the following. Start engine and hold engine revs at 2000rpm until at operating temp, then go out and drive the car from 30-60mph with half to 3/4 throttle so that there is enough cylinder pressure to push the rings out and seat better, then engine brake back down to 30 and do the same thing about 6 times, then finish off with a good close to full throttle pull. Shut off the engine and change the oil and filter, then drive the car with low boost for about 500miles (not highway) and then change the oil and filter again....now your engine is broken in.
This is how I plan to break mine in this spring.

 

[Defiant]

Please refer to the extensive links in this thread as well:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=91828

 

[mustg5]

RYAN H....you got it right

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

I just read the link from a thread about rebuilding a 4G63 and found this breaking in info.
Im looking at a rebuild within a year and was wondering if I could get some opinions about "Motomans" engine break in methods.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
After reading this I am almost convinced that he knows his stuff. Opinions please? Anobody done this before?

 

[onegee]

i coulda swore there was a thread JUST like this 3 days ago. Defiant locked it and gave 6 more threads with the same question. this page has been beaten to death many times. Im not criticizing you, you probably already read the other threads.

Anyway, i cant search right now so i cant directly link you, but try searching for "engine break" with Defiant as a poster. It should come up with a thread with alot of ppl discussing the way to break it in. Just in case you haven't read them. It will also give opinions and ppl mention the same exact site.

I've brought it up on my local board and general consensus from ppl who know what they are talking about (ie. NOT bench racers and ones who used the method suggested and build motors) say it yields positive results. One of my friends on the local board started talking crap like the mototune guy didn't know what he was saying, and a senior member who has been racing DSMs and building motors for 7 years came back and validated the site and told him to STFU for puttin his opinion in instead of fact and experience.

And YES, the guy has done it before. He said Marco from magnus recommend he get on it when breaking the motor in. He currently has the highest HP 2g DSM in hawaii. He was also featured in Turbo magazine a while back about breaking records with a small16g, i believe a 12.4 with it? Cant remember. But yeah, he knows what he is talking about.

I believe a post in one of the threads Defiant gave spoke about Candela's method of breaking a motor in. Look for that suggestion.

sorry i cant link you, work computer is acting up. Good luck and happy new year.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Your feedback is appreciated. I posted a new thread "on the fly" without searching first... I'm at work also, but this was the first time I've heard of that method of break in. I will do more research.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!

 

[Groomz]

I also have recommended this break-in style to many people. Engine machining and tolerences have come a long way, so maybe on a '55 Chevy V8 you would want to take it easy, but a hi-po rebuild with good machine work would be alot safer to perform this method of break in. To each his own I guess, but the only parts that really wear in our cars today are the piston rings and eventually the bearings ( unless its a 2G, then the thrust bearing is dead before it was ever installed ).

Have the engine well built by someone who cares and knows what they are doing ( like Magnus ), follow that break-in procedure, and you should be good to go.

Most new cars are already broken in from the factory to begin with, seeing as machining and casting techniques have allowed for excellent tolerences and production quality. There is no longer the need to drive your wifes car for 3K miles to break it in. Driving easy on it ( or any daily driving ) would do. Just don't break it in, change the oil and go out and run 10s, that's asking for trouble.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Originally posted by Groomz
I also have recommended this break-in style to many people. Engine machining and tolerences have come a long way, so maybe on a '55 Chevy V8 you would want to take it easy, but a hi-po rebuild with good machine work would be alot safer to perform this method of break in. To each his own I guess, but the only parts that really wear in our cars today are the piston rings and eventually the bearings ( unless its a 2G, then the thrust bearing is dead before it was ever installed ).

Have the engine well built by someone who cares and knows what they are doing ( like Magnus ), follow that break-in procedure, and you should be good to go.

Most new cars are already broken in from the factory to begin with, seeing as machining and casting techniques have allowed for excellent tolerences and production quality. There is no longer the need to drive your wifes car for 3K miles to break it in. Driving easy on it ( or any daily driving ) would do. Just don't break it in, change the oil and go out and run 10s, that's asking for trouble.

I cant go out and run 10's no matter how hard I try but I read that "Moto" says to run it hard in sessions... soooo, can that be done by me without a dyno? Can I just put it on the street and run it for a few passes to seat those new rings? Y'know, put a load on the engine to simulate the dyno? Then change the oil and be set?

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by RiceKiller_TSi
I cant go out and run 10's no matter how hard I try but I read that "Moto" says to run it hard in sessions... soooo, can that be done by me without a dyno? Can I just put it on the street and run it for a few passes to seat those new rings? Y'know, put a load on the engine to simulate the dyno? Then change the oil and be set?

Sure can. That would be the best way to do it. The dyno only allows you super accurate load placed on the engine. I believe he outlines how to break it in on the street. Just go out and do a bunch of varying speed acceleration runs ( 40 to 60, 20 to 40, etc ) for about a half hour at most ( or 30 runs in all? ). Go home, change the oil ( you should do a startup and warmup on the engine first of all, then change the oil again and go out for the break in procedures ), and you should be good to go. Drive easy for another 200 miles, change the oil, go another 600, change it again I think and you should be done. Couldn't hurt to go another 2K of easy miles ( like highway ) before you rag on it or do full power dyno sessions.

 

[onegee]

and after u accelerate, remember to deaccelerate using "engine breaking" (ie. just take ur foot off the break and let it slow down WITHOUT any braking in gear). so after u go 40-60 half to WOT in third gear, slow down by just letting off the gas back from 60-40.

 

[etx]

I just took the car out on first startup (after it got up to temp) and made 20 pulls from 30-60 in 3rd gear. Then I took it easy for 200 miles and after 200 started boosting about 18 psi. About 6000 miles on it now, still running strong.