Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[HustlerTalon]

I finally got my talon up and running today after finding out that a certain company forgot to tighten one of the cam gears on my engine and was the reason why my car wasn't turning on....Anyways....I let it warm up, check the fluids, and the hit the roads to break it in...I gotta say that I was scared to use the Mototuneusa break in procedure but everything worked as planned. I did plenty of 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears pulls up to 4500rpms (engine braking)...The only thing I missed as a clamp on one of the water hoses that is connected to the firewall...the good thing is that I took extra water with me...I didn't have a metal clamp, but the zip-tie held up. I put in 20 hard driven miles on my brand new built motor...the car still has its little details here and there but the hard stuff is done with...that break in procedure was easy and really fun to do, especially when you go in the back roads up the mountains and do twisties with an awd.

I still have 700 miles to go and a few oil changes in the way to CMI...

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Sweet man, keep us posted. I have my engine coming in next week and this was the method I was going to use. What psi are you using?

 

[deadly-app]

Just make sure you do your oil changes properly, as that might make or break your engine

 

[HustlerTalon]

Sweet man, keep us posted. I have my engine coming in next week and this was the method I was going to use. What psi are you using?

I broke in the engine with a stock 14b turbo instead of my gt30r...psi was stock, however i had a boost leak in my TB (my gasket broke somehow).

I will do my oil changes as followed: at 20, 250, 500, 1000, then every 2500 miles as I normally do.

 

[Merkles]

I have been following your engine threads and its nice to hear you finally got everything fixed and you have your car running strong. I can't even imagine the headache you had with that whole thing. And another DSM is back on the road

 

[HustlerTalon]

I have been following your engine threads and its nice to hear you finally got everything fixed and you have your car running strong. I can't even imagine the headache you had with that whole thing. And another DSM is back on the road

thanks man....yeah I gotta say that all this has given me a migraine

I just couldn't believe that such a reputable company could make sooo many mistakes on a single motor...good thing is that I found all the problems and got my baby back on the road after nearly 1 year of sitting on jackstands...I was actually going to take video of my break in but after I got my car turned on, I was so excited to drive it that I forgot my camera inside the house...I was going to post it up here but dam i forgot it...it was a fun 45 minute break in.

next up is fixing the TB boost leak and the water hose.
after that, a few road trips to put some miles on, strap the gt30r, dyno tune and track...we will see how everything goes from now to the 29th....

 

[jibberishballr]

I just did a cylinder head job. How should I break in the engine? (Did Valve Job, Head Gasket, etc....no rings)

 

[JayRolla]

Warm the engine completely prior to it's first break in run. Break-in procedure should consist of hard acceleration and deceleration for 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears between 3000-6000 RPM's at a moderate boost level (15-16psi) for the first 30 miles. Change the oil after the first 30 miles as well. Going easy on the motor can contribute to blowby since ring seal on new parts needs to happen under significant load. Seating the rings quickly by accelerating and engine braking is the best way to make strong compression.

After the first oil change, you can turn up the boost and run the car as you normally would drive it. Stick with mineral oil for the first 1500 miles and then switch to synthetic.

Have fun,

Andy

My mechanic has built hundreds of motors and all he said was to act like 5krpm was my redline. He told me to go out and boost it all I want just stay under 5krpm. Helps set the rings. But thats pretty much what Andy is saying.

I changed the oil at 50 miles 200 and 500 miles. Originally he told me that his building environment is way more controled and cleaner than other builders. Usually you have to bring it to a machinist than back to the builder and in the process can cause the parts to get dirty.

He does it all in his shop and build the motor in a clean environment. He builds the motor straight from the part washer and he says this has a lot to do with a well built motor.

 

[jibberishballr]

My mechanic has built hundreds of motors and all he said was to act like 5krpm was my redline. He told me to go out and boost it all I want just stay under 5krpm. Helps set the rings. But thats pretty much what Andy is saying.

I changed the oil at 50 miles 200 and 500 miles. Originally he told me that his building environment is way more controled and cleaner than other builders. Usually you have to bring it to a machinist than back to the builder and in the process can cause the parts to get dirty.

He does it all in his shop and build the motor in a clean environment. He builds the motor straight from the part washer and he says this has a lot to do with a well built motor.

What about oil? What kind should I use and how long should I use it for? (got the idea from the post a couple posts up).

 

[fourreGsixty3]

[/QUOTE=andymoraitis] Stick with mineral oil for the first 1500 miles and then switch to synthetic.

Have fun,

Andy [/QUOTE]

There you have your awnser.

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

I have looked but still cannot find a good answer for what I need to know...

Im running a stock 6 bolt with wiseco 9:1 CR pistons.... stock 14b... stock fuel system

I need to break in the motor (just rebuilt it) and I cannot find an answer how.... Im going to leave it at stock boost for the break in... the one that I read goes like this...

let the car warm up, but keep the idle varying between 2k and 4k.... check for leaks, blah blah

take the car out and do a 20% throttle run in 3rd gear from 3k to 4k, then engine break back down... do this 3 times

then do a half throttle run in 3rd from 3k to 4k, then engine break back down to 3k... do this 3 times

last, do 3 full throttle runs from 3k to 4k, then engine break back down to 3k... take the car home... let it cool... change oil.... compression check and check for leaks right?


What I am worried about is running the stock boost levels when breaking it in... I mean, the car is a boosted car, so it should be broke in under a little boost right?

HHEEEELLLLPPPPP!!!!!

 

[the_skin_eater]

Thats about how Im gonna do it...

Leave it boosting. That way the rings see pressure and the vacuum that the turbo will provide.

Heres a link for that way.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

--oh yea, just leave it stock, then after break in Id turn the boost up if ya wanted.

 

[chavez408]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

yup... im going to do a mix between what I said and what motoman said..... but my higher comp ratio wont hurt during boost and break in?

 

[the_skin_eater]

I dont see why it would...

 

[housegsx]

I think the only reason people mention to run low during break in other than the car not being fully tuned yet, is because you are often breaking in a new clutch at the same time. I would run boost, but not too agressive until you know it's not knocking with the higher compression. It's should be fine with the 14b at stock boost levels.

 

[ROOKIE1]

I have looked but still cannot find a good answer for what I need to know...

Im running a stock 6 bolt with wiseco 9:1 CR pistons.... stock 14b... stock fuel system

I need to break in the motor (just rebuilt it) and I cannot find an answer how.... Im going to leave it at stock boost for the break in... the one that I read goes like this...

let the car warm up, but keep the idle varying between 2k and 4k.... check for leaks, blah blah

take the car out and do a 20% throttle run in 3rd gear from 3k to 4k, then engine break back down... do this 3 times

then do a half throttle run in 3rd from 3k to 4k, then engine break back down to 3k... do this 3 times

last, do 3 full throttle runs from 3k to 4k, then engine break back down to 3k... take the car home... let it cool... change oil.... compression check and check for leaks right?


What I am worried about is running the stock boost levels when breaking it in... I mean, the car is a boosted car, so it should be broke in under a little boost right?

HHEEEELLLLPPPPP!!!!!

Fresh rebuild with me also . I am not and have read that you do not use synthetic for breakin . I am using a 20w50 during breakin . Will run that for @2000k . I will then switch to a synthetic 10w30 .

 

[nightspeed87]

mototune method worked for me.

 

[adiffrentcity]

Good idea not using synthetic oil for break in, the stuff is so good it will actually take longer for your rings to get nice and set-in. Why are you using such a high viscosity oil though? In a freshly built motor with the right tolerances doesn't seem like you would need it.

 

[GloriousDSM]

Yup, use mineral oil also for break-in, that method sounds like a good one so stick with the plan

PGG

 

[GloriousDSM]

What if you have a T-25 and a brand new 50 trim, should you break it in on the 25 or just do the whole install of a 50 trim and keep boost lower- lets say 11 psi or so ? That way you dont have to swap a few weeks later. Im just worried about metal shavings/ debris from all new machining running through a new turbo center section. what do you guys think?

I havent upgraded fuel and dont have management yet or a way to tune or monitor the cars vitals. Can I use the 50 trim with no fuel mods on low boost for break in with no logging device? Also im planning on using the side mount for a few weeks or so.


Any advice is welcome.


-PGG

 

[the_skin_eater]

If your worried about shavings, then why risk it???

If its that big of a pain for you to switch out later, then why do it twice??

I personally am adding my bigger mods after break in. Mainly just so I can get it tuned and running properly with minimal effort. Then when its running properly I can add other things. I wouldnt want the car idling all day while I tune it if the rings arnt seated yet...

That part is your call though.

 

[92awddsm]

Its up to you. Everyone says use the old turbo for break in because of metal shavings but that is basically bs. If you have metal shavings passing through it, who ever did the job does very crappy cleaning on the block. And with metal shaving running through it, you should be more concerned with bearing issues than turbo issues.

Cliffnotes: If you ruin the turbo from a halfass block cleaning, you will also ruin the engine. The shavings will be in the blocks oil galleys and will pass through the bearings long before they get back to the oil pan and into the filter.

 

[nightspeed87]

Yea there still will be little sand like break in shavings on first start up. If you continue seeing shavings after the first oil change ( which should be after starting the car and letting it idle for 5 or 10 mins ) then maybe something isnt machined correctly.
Personally Id break it in on the t25 just to be safe, set the boost at 15psi to get some good sealing on those rings and do the motoman break in technique http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm while varying the rpms and not revving higher than 5k on the new motor. Then after 500miles or ( and three oil changes ) id put on the 50 trim and go at it...
Just make sure not to use synthetic for like 1500 miles at least.

 

[92awddsm]

Yea there still will be little sand like break in shavings on first start up. If you continue seeing shavings after the first oil change ( which should be after starting the car and letting it idle for 5 or 10 mins ) then maybe something isnt machined correctly.
Personally Id break it in on the t25 just to be safe, set the boost at 15psi to get some good sealing on those rings and do the motoman break in technique http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm while varying the rpms and not revving higher than 5k on the new motor. Then after 500miles or ( and three oil changes ) id put on the 50 trim and go at it...
Just make sure not to use synthetic for like 1500 miles at least.

There should be no shavings, sand, ect. if it is cleaned properly. If there is some sort of debris left after cleaning, the turbo should be the last concern. The reason for changing the oil so many times so quickly after a rebuild is to get all the assembly lube removed from the engine, not because of debris in the oil. Moly, graphite, and ep assembly lubes will clog the oil filter and render it useless. When the filter clogs, all oil bypasses the filter and recirculates through the engine.

And with all new engines, you should invest in a magnetic oil drain plug. The only debris that you may encounter is a very fine silt substance from the rings seating. This substance will not amount to anything but if you are worried, the magnetic plug will catch it.