Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[DSM97GST]

Unless you live in a climate that's very cold, anything less than 40 weight is not necessary. IE, 0W40, 5W40, 10W40 etc.

Even in a cold climate, you can run 10W40 year round. And especially for a turbo vehicle, running thicker oil isn't a bad thing at all, up to a certain point. If you were running something like 15W50 in Alaska in the winter, you'd probably have mucho problems. I don't know if I'd run anything thicker than 15W40 even in the summer due to the wedge effect.

Personally I have always run Mobil One 0W40 Synthetic in the winter & 10W40 in the summer. It gives good protection for the summer months and spirited driving, plus when it gets cold, the 0W40 gives the quickest start up lubrication possible.

Though for break in, definitely run regular ol' dinosaur oil for 1,500 miles till the rings seat etc.

I live in norcal (if that makes a difference) and I have always used 10w30 on my motors however I have never had a brand new motor...will 10w30 be ok???

Also mototuneusa says to do "engine braking"....is that when you floor it to like 4k rpms and then just let go off the throttle until the car slows down by itself while its still in gear???

 

[HustlerTalon]

Taboo says:

- Before you fire up the engine, remove the MPI fuse and crank the engine several times to build oil pressure.
- Put the MPI fuse back, start the engine and immediately take it to 1.5-2K to maintain the oil pressure so the lifters fill with oil and the cams bed properly.
- No matter what you do, don't let the engine idle.
- When the engine warms up and the coolant temperature is normal, bring the RPM to 3K and hold it there for 20-30 minutes.
- Let the RPM drop, adjust the idle and timing.
- When done, shut the engine off, check for any oil/coolant leaks, change the oil and the oil filter and let the engine cool down.
- If everything checks out OK, take the car for a spin and several 30-65-30 mph pulls at stock boost level.
- At this point, the engine is fully broken in, but you might want to take it easy for a few more days and keep an eye on oil/coolant leaks, loose bolts and hoses, etc.
- Change the oil/oil filter at 500 miles again.

There's absolutely no need to drive 500 miles under 3K or 1500 miles without boosting. As a matter of fact, you can tune the car and race the engine the same day you install it.

Another "trick" is using WD-40 - rather than oil - on the cylinder walls and piston rings during assembly in ordred to speed up the break-in process and make the rings seat properly.



Have any of you use this break in process or the WD-40 instead of regular oil???

 

[Dark_Horse]

I live in norcal (if that makes a difference) and I have always used 10w30 on my motors however I have never had a brand new motor...will 10w30 be ok???

Also mototuneusa says to do "engine braking"....is that when you floor it to like 4k rpms and then just let go off the throttle until the car slows down by itself while its still in gear???

For break-in, 10W30 should be just fine. For daily driving though, I wouldn't use anything other than 10W40 in Cali.

You are on the right track in regards to engine braking.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Please describe the method you used (for example, easy for 5k miles with synthetic oil), who built the engine, what was used to build it (ARP, Clevite, etc...) , how many miles are on it and if it is still running. Please do NOT post here if you have not broken in your own engine. Also, I want experience with your own, not someone elses.

 

[Wildeclipse2000]

For motors I break in on cars other than the RWD this is the method I use. I start off by using a heavier oil, and running it in the motor for about 30 seconds to a minute, then shut off the car and change the oil. I then run the motor for about 5 minutes, then shut it off and change the oil, I do this twice. Then run the car at about 2000 rpms for about 30 seconds to a minute, and again change the oil. After that I change the oil every 250 miles for the first 1000 miles, then you can do what you wish for your regular oil change intervals, with whatever oil you would like to use.

 

[WMD]

I just used normal mineral oil. Right after I started it, I drove somewhere secluded. Then I floored it to 60 then just let it decelerate on its own to about 30. I repeated this process 12 times. This seats the rings. Then after 500 miles I changed the oil.
Just drive it easy (no boost, or above 3500) for the first 1000 miles or so and you'll be fine.

And I would say there is about 6000 miles on the new rebuild.

 

[andymoraitis]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

15 psi boost for the first break in period (30 miles) and then 25 psi for the duration. I also used mineral oil for the first 1500 miles and changed it at 30, 500, 1500.

 

[ivanr4g63]

Keyword: Oil Changes and NO synthetic just yet.

Use regular motor oil (don't use the most expensive oil filter but don't use the cheapest either), change it the first 100 miles, then after 500 miles, then after 1000, then after 2000 and then every 3000 miles... and oil filter of course, very important.
You could also just look at it, if it looks dirty say after 800 miles, just go ahead and change it.

In the break in period the rings and cilinder walls may produce small shavings, very small just like metal dust that in combination with oil will travel all over your motor oil passages, and turbo oil feed line, eventually it will make it to the bearings and slowly scratch them and you can imagine what goes on from there... Changing the oil very often will practically eliminate the chances of this happening.

Also the mothod mentioned above works good to help the rings sit well.
Once fully warmed up, go for a run in third gear (don't boost it) slowly make it to 60mph and decelerate to 40mph or so, do this several times (all the time leave it in third) the load in the motor makes the piston rings accomodate well onto the cilinder wall. I'd say change the oil right after you do this, since during this period you'll probably be giving the motor a good work out...

After that just drive the car normally, most people will tell you not to boost after the first 1000 miles, I'd say the same thing to you, but I will be lying of I say to you I didn't boost my car right after the first 100 miles... 14 psi on a 14b to be exact, then gradually work my way up. since then my motor is just shy of 6k miles, but I don't drive it as much as I used to, I can assure you though that at least 3k miles were very hard driven...

Regards,

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

I did a reserved mototune break in becuase I had a new clutch as well as the new motor. I let it heat cycle then changed the oil (mobil mineral 10-30) then took it out on a drive got on it moderatly with 15psi and did lots of accel/decel in 3rd gear (2500-4500 rpm) for about 10 miles. Took it home changed the oil, drove it like i would every day sans wot accel until the clutch was broken in. Then its seen hell since with perfect 178 psi across the board. Changed the oil at 50 mi, 250 mi, 500 mi, 1000 mi then every 2k after. I sitched to mobil 1 10-30 at 3k.

 

[JayRolla]

I just acted as if 5000rpm is my redline for the first 500 miles. The rings like boost to set correctly. Also changed oil at 50 miles, 500 and 1500 like Andy did. My mechanic builds his motors straight out of the part washer so he makes a clean motor. Unlike most places where they send the parts to be machined then they get packaged and sent back. In that process a lot of particles can build on the parts.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

When I break mine in I will be going with the Mototune method of driving it hard. Find a nice open strech of road, and accelerate hard, then let the engine decelerate on its own, then accelerate hard again, do this for 30 miles or so. Also use no more then 15psi of boost like Andy mentioned, it helps to have a low boost setting to seat the rings. Also NO SYNTHETIC for the first 1500 miles. You need the mineral oil to seat everything properly. Also change the oil at the 30 mile mark, for sure, and after that you can go with what Andy said, or change it a little more regularly, neither will hurt the engine. Also ask the company that goes the rebuild what weight oil they recommend use on it.

Dustin

 

[JayRolla]

I love that way to break in the motor. Thats how all the drag racers break in there motors. Where would you do that break in process for 30 miles. Thats just crazy unless you have a huge track.

 

[tight_tsi]

I will hopefully be breaking in my motor in the next month or so - what weight of oil do you guys recommend during this initial process? When you change it after 30 miles, 250, 500, 100, etc. etc. are you using the same weight of oil at every interval??

 

[JayRolla]

I always used the same weight and used just regulare 10w-30

 

[twocanewayne]

I am breaking mine in now, my mechanic has 22 years experience on imports and turbo engines he doesnt work on anything else. Like JayRolla said he builds everything and does all the machine work himself. I got clevite bearings 264 comp cams head work eagle rods and race pistons. His directions on breakin drive normal he took off my mbc and hooked it up stock. Run it on dino oil 10-30 the cheapest you can get and change filter always,change it at 50,200,600 and now I have 1176 miles and have to change it at 1500 then run whatever kind of oil you want. I have had NO problems or leaks its all good. You will hear all kind of ways, but he has done 4g63t as long as hes been building engines and its allways worked fine.

 

[JayRolla]

Yea my mechanic doesnt even break in his personal motors. He just changes the fluid at 500 miles and calls it a day.

 

[twocanewayne]

I will hopefully be breaking in my motor in the next month or so - what weight of oil do you guys recommend during this initial process? When you change it after 30 miles, 250, 500, 100, etc. etc. are you using the same weight of oil at every interval??

Yhea use 10-30 its fine at the changes to stay the same,just make sure its dino oil not synthic! JayRolla ,You know your stuff and Dustin too. You guys help alot on everything...Thanks

 

[vengerfreak]

first 600 miles are very important

 

[eric91gst]

what method of break in do you guys think i should use for my rebuild. I am considering the mototune method and will be using a 14b for break in. I am replacing the rings, all bearings, crank front and rear seals, head gasket, ARP head studs. Also honing the cylinders myself.
-thanks

 

[JayRolla]

Honing them yourself, nice. I would just keep it under 5k rpm, change fluid at 30, 500, 1000, 2000. Low boost and dont be scared to boost it up to 5k.

 

[twocanewayne]

yhea I am just now am putting on my mbc at 2000 mi. Just keep boost low and dont go over 5k .

 

[nightspeed87]

Iam going to breakin in my new 6bolt engine swap/ build friday !!
Im also going to be doing the motoman technique, but the only problem with that is that the clutch is my old stock clutch thats pretty beaten up and thinned, and it has a new lightweight 10lbs fidanza flywheel on it and I still have to be careful to give it time to let them seat. ( Getting new clutch/ jdm rebuild tranny in near future hopefully!)
But I wont be scared to take it up to 5k, just only in like 2nd and 1st gear though because the load is a lot greater the higher the gears go. A lot of accerelation and deceleration is the trick to seating the rings good soon before its too late. And Ive also heard how synthetic is too slippery for a new motor trying to break in.
I probably wont switch to synthetic till like 5k. Oh and contrary to what some may think I ve talked to many wiseman engine builders and they say boost actually is what helps seat the rings the fastest, so dont be scared to boost it. Like Andy said 15lbs is about a perfect amount to hit. I had a turbo break in thread not too long ago where I was worried about the turbo getting metal shavings in it during break in and messing it up, because ive heard from a few ppl that their turbos went after break in, but Im sure its also on how much machining you get... ( I guess that makes changing the oil sooner that much more important.... )

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240825

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I love that way to break in the motor. Thats how all the drag racers break in there motors. Where would you do that break in process for 30 miles. Thats just crazy unless you have a huge track.

I will be having one of my buddies drive in his car with me just as a percaution, and going on the highway at like 6am (no traffic, and I can accel, and deccel without messing with people driving)

first 600 miles are very important

really just depends on your break-in method, if mototune break in then the first 30 miles are the most important.

But I wont be scared to take it up to 5k, just only in like 2nd and 1st gear though because the load is a lot greater the higher the gears go.

I would do 2nd or 3rd gear pulls, just go from like 25mph to 60mph under hard accel.

And Ive also heard how synthetic is too slippery for a new motor trying to break in. I probably wont switch to synthetic till like 5k.

Yes the synthetic's don't allow for proper scoring of the cyl. walls, and are too thin to seat the rings. You can switch to synthetic at 1500 mile mark, thats what Andy M. did, and he has no problems.
Yes, on turbo charged cars a low 15psi setting of boost will seat those rings perfectly. After the very crucial 30 miles you can up the boost to what ever you would normaly run, like I will up it to 30psi on the future 35R.

Dustin

 

[twocanewayne]

Drive it normal, take off any boost control and run stock boost. Use dino oil 10-30 change 50,250, 500, 1000, dotnt use synthic or around 2k.

 

[twocanewayne]

I screwed up on the oil changes, havent had my coffee yet.