Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[98undapressure]

thanx guys and yes its a full rebuild 2g pistons and 1g rods

 

[98undapressure]

i heard youre supposed to keep the boost lower than 10 psi is that true?

 

[u12run]

I was told buy my engine builder to use 30 wieght for the first 1500 miles. Change once at 500. Then okay to use 10-30w for the next 1500 miles. Then finally okay to use full syntetic. I was also told to keep the boost as low as possible.

 

[femmeDSM]

i heard youre supposed to keep the boost lower than 10 psi is that true?

Under normal city driving conditions, you should rarely see full boost anyway. But yeah, I would keep the boost low.

 

[overdoseheroin]

ive always used 20w 50 regular oil for break in, run it through a heat cycle, let it cool completely, re-torque everything then go out for a drive. Usually in 3rd gear ill slowly let the rpms climb to like 6 grand then let it decelerate on its own until its down to a reasonable rpm, do this a few times (it helps the rings spin and seat) ill give my motors like 100-150 miles of driving, getting on it a little bit here and there, then change the oil and run 20w 50 regular oil for appx 500 miles driving like i normally would, a lil beating the piss out of it, change the oil again then drop some 20w 50 synthetic in it. I have never had a problem with any motor i did breaking it in this way.

 

[GSTinCO]

Here read this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Like the article says it's a very controversial topic. I've heard everything from run it like you always will to baby it for the first 1500 miles. It's your engine you be the judge. Good Luck and hope the article helps.

 

[larsenracing]

I'd run it for about 750 miles to let it heat cycle and lube everything, with regular valvaline 10w-30 then change it again with 10w=30 and run it about 1500 miles with the same type of oil. Threw all this time don't beat the tar out of it with little boost under 8PSI but drive easier than normal but not babying it to much and staying down on the boost. Then after that change to Mobil 1 full syn. 10w-30 and put about 2000 miles on it under normal driving and staying under about 12PSI. From hear on change regularly every 2500 miles unless extreme conditions and have fun driving it the way you want. Good luck.

 

[vintagemuscle]

I'd run it for about 750 miles to let it heat cycle and lube everything, with regular valvaline 10w-30 then change it again with 10w=30 and run it about 1500 miles with the same type of oil. Threw all this time don't beat the tar out of it with little boost under 8PSI but drive easier than normal but not babying it to much and staying down on the boost. Then after that change to Mobil 1 full syn. 10w-30 and put about 2000 miles on it under normal driving and staying under about 12PSI. From hear on change regularly every 2500 miles unless extreme conditions and have fun driving it the way you want. Good luck.

after all of those miles it will need another rebuild

 

[srGS-t]

Ok I just rebult my 4g63t and im starting to break it in but I just wanted to ask while drive should i not let the boost get over like 5 lbs or so? PS im not letting it get over 3,500 rpm is that good for a break in?

 

[larsenracing]

I would keep it at or less than 5-8PSI untill about 3,500 miles. That should be a good break in period. let it heat cycle many times. Also break it in for them 3,500 miles on regular oil then switch to a Mobil 1 full synthetic or something equal. Change it with in 1000 miles then do it again by about 3,500 miles and it should be good to go. But thats just my .02.

 

[spidy3]

I have been told that you can go into some boost, but drive normal and dont rip on engine for about 1000 miles. Varying the rpm is good and try not to drive at same rpm for a while, like driving 20 mins on highway at same rpm. Try and take a different route through town if possible so there is alot of stop and go and varying rpms. Also make the engine do alot of the work. example... if your going up a hill in 5th, dont drop it into 3rd, go into 4th or try and stay in 5th gear and make the engine really work and get car going.

Hope that helps


Dom

and my no means am I an expert in this but through everything that I have heard that is best way to break in motor.

 

[logic]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Almost done with my Talon project. Which oil grade is best for initial start-up and break-in? Thanks!

Scott

 

[project_tsi]

10w-30. No synthetic or semi-synthetic crap.
I generally start it up, let it run for a while while I check for leaks and problems, and then drive it for only a few short, easy miles, then change the oil again. Then I usually change it after 100, 250, 500, 1000, and 1500 miles.

 

[Ryan95tsiAWD]

10w-30. No synthetic or semi-synthetic crap.
I generally start it up, let it run for a while while I check for leaks and problems, and then drive it for only a few short, easy miles, then change the oil again. Then I usually change it after 100, 250, 500, 1000, and 1500 miles.

Exactly, we use valvoline racing "Conventional Motor Oil".

 

[JDNSBR]

You are going to get alot of answers on this one. Alot of it is based on opinion. We use 20-50 non synthentic. The thought behind this is simple. The thicker oil will pick up the shavings from the new motor and bearings. I would then also follow Dan's oil change schedule.

Also, if you have an old turbo around it is wise to break in the turbo on that. That way you are not putting shavings through your good turbo.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Yeah, I was thinking it should be thicker oil but just couldn't remember the weight. And then what weight to change it too and how long before swapping to the thinner weight. Don't have an old turbo because my setup is all getting changed. Having to get the downpipe welded to make it fit so can't just swap it out. But I had planned to maybe run it at a higher idle for a few minutes and change it. Then drive it a few miles and probably change it again. Then probably start that oil change sequence listed above.

 

[My96AWD]

I use sae 30 because it dosen't have detergent in it. I also don't take it easy on the motor but I don't flog it either. I do what motoman does search for it. I have broken in every engine I have built like this even before i found his site.

 

[Spidey]

I used 20w-50 non-synthetic for my start-up/break-in also. On initial start-up I let the car fully warm up while holding the RPMs at ~3000 or so, then checked timing with a light. Changed the oil and filter after that(it had run/idled for probably around 20 minutes total), and proceeded to do the 'hard' break-in. I again changed the oil after the break-in, still using 20w-50, and changed it 500 miles later, then 1500, and then again 3000 miles later is when I switched to synthetic.

 

[92GSXBaltimore]

I would recommend using a 10w-40 conventional, let it idle till it gets up to operation temperature then shut it off and change the oil. Then, take it out for a drive. Make sure you are loading the engine(~75-80% throttle @ lowest possible boost), although I would not go past ~5500 rpms and dont stay at one engine speed for too long. Continue to drive in this manner for at least the first 750 miles. Change the oil at 25, 150, 500, 1500, and 3000 miles, with the last oil change done with 10w-30 fully synthetic. Turn up the boost and have fun

 

[sadsm]

I am rebuilding my motor and I have always used Mobil1 full synthetic oil in my 4G63. I have heard that in a freshly built motor that you should not use full syythetic oil. Has any one else heard this, and if so, what oil should I use, and when should I go back to full synthetic.

 

[mopardwh]

I wouldn't use fully synthetic because you should change it immedtiately after break in. You would be just wasting money. I use Castrol 20w50 for break in, then after a few hours of the motor running switch with synthetic. I recommend Royal Purple.

 

[sadsm]

Everyone is always talking about royal purple. Where do you find it? I have only seen it once for sale online, but I am not going to order any liquid online, I know how most of the shipping companies treat the packages.

Also, break in is 500 miles correct?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

This is how I break in engines:

After the engine has fully warmed up and run for 15 to 20 minutes, shut it off. Drain the oil and change the filter. This should remove any loose debris that might have made its way into the system during the build. If you have a turbo with an internal wastegate, you may choose to remove the actuator before driving the car. This will keep you from building any boost. Start the engine again and let it fully warm up. Find an empty stretch of road and do a 30 to 50 mph run and compression brake back down to 30 mph. Keep the car in the lowest gear that will keep you below 4k RPM max. Keep the car in the low gear during the compression braking to pull a lot of vacuum. Do this repeatedly for the next 20 miles. Now, drive in stop and go traffic for the next 200 miles. Stay off the interstate. Use your gears and vary the engine RPM when cruising, still keeping under 4k RPM. Compression brake when possible. Don't lug the engine in a high gear. When you hit 220 miles, change the oil and filter again. Use cheap dino oil again. Do the same stop and go traffic crap until you hit 620 total miles. Just change the oil this time (cheap dino oil). Do the stop and go traffic thing again, but mix in some highway cruising if you have to. When you hit 1,020 miles, change your plugs and do a compression test. If everything looks good, you can put the wastegate actuator back on (but keep the boost low). Change the oil and filter again with cheap dino oil. Drive in mixed stop and go traffic and interstate cruising until you hit 1,520 total miles. Now, you can change the oil and filter with full synthetic or whatever you would normally use. If everything seems to be running well, you are free to drive the car how you want now. Full boost, rev limit, whatever it was built to handle. Have fun and keep it between the lines!

By the way, you can find Royal Purple at Pep Boys.

 

[sadsm]

Thank you very much, and I knew I should go over to pep boys more often. Is Royal Purple really that much better?