The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BrokeTurbo

20+ Year Contributor
49
0
Sep 4, 2002
As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.


Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks
 
I broke in mine this way, Put in oil, Do about 300 miles of daily driving on LOW boost (I ran about 6 pounds) and then Turn it up to your target boost after 300 miles and Go do some 3rd gear pulls on the interstate to redline and then go home and change the oil, and she's broke in.
 
90TSIwhite said:
I broke in mine this way, Put in oil, Do about 300 miles of daily driving on LOW boost (I ran about 6 pounds) and then Turn it up to your target boost after 300 miles and Go do some 3rd gear pulls on the interstate to redline and then go home and change the oil, and she's broke in.

Thats sounds a little scary to me.

Here's what I have done. Disconnect the wastegate actuator, drive car for the first 500 miles cycling the RPM's never letting it stay at one set RPM (except idle ofcourse), these miles need to be mostly city driven miles. After the first 500 miles, change the oil, after this for the next 500 miles drive it regularly, trying never to get into boost. After the 1,000 miles are reached I'd recommend changing the oil again to your prefered brand and weight and taking the car to a dyno.

Just remember this... For the first 1000 miles...

Don't let the car get into boost.
Don't go over 4K RPM.

Good luck and hopefully this will help.

Rocky
 
Hey everybody, I hope to have my '95 gsx up and running this weekend, (or monday) and I am kind of getting prepared to break it in. I've done a lot of research on what is the best way (for the most part) to break in the engine after a fresh build, so we don't need to discuss that here. But I am wondering if I should stick with the stock boost pressure for the break-in period.

And if so, what do you think I should be turning it up to after it's been broken in? I'm running a brand new t25 but the rest of the engine is far from stock. Basically, I'm looking to see if it's a bad idea to turn the boost up to like 18psi right away after the first 200 miles or so.

Thanks for any insight you can lend me! :dsm:
 
Well you have the supporting mods to turn up the boost to 18 psi w/good tuning. Too bad the turbo you have can not safely run at this level. You still have the stock t-25. 16psi is the safe max but still I wouldn't even turn it up until the engine has been 'broken in'. Leave it at stock psi. Then, you can turn it up to 16. Look into a 14b turbo, I've talked to people putting 300+ whp w/correct tuning and all.
 
Oh, for some reason I was under the impression that the t25 was better than the 14b... owell.

I'm planning a turbo upgrade to an evo3 big 16g in the future. So, I think that will provide all of the power I want.
 
I'm getting a BRAND NEW 6 bolt put in on monday... problem is though, I have to then drive it home on the highway. Should I vary my speeds? I read that it is bad to keep it at a constant speed. The drive home is about 20 miles I think. Then, 20 more miles to work, then 20 back that same day. Should I just run it kinda hard, let it engine brake down, then run kinda hard again?

I don't want some ####y engine, I want a good mix of reliability and power.

I should just run it as hard as possible... it comes with a 5yr/50,000 mile warranty on EVERYTHING :D
 
I'm not sure of all of the appropriate steps..Just the basics which are not to rev to redline or anything like that, no racing it. In other words just baby it for, well i'm not sure how long I would say 500-1000 miles at least.
 
Suggested break in techniques vary from shop to shop. I suggest you contact the engine builder and ask them or if you did it yourself call your favorite trusted shop and ask them. The most common themes are use regular oil for the first 500 miles and vary your rpms while driving.....no racing or hardcare WOT stuff just light acceleration and deceleration. Change your oil and filter after 500 miles and your set.
 
and it was already answered in your other thread, regular oil, 10w30 would be fine, take your pick on brand, there also about 25 threads that come up when your search for engine break in, they are fully detailed
 
Hi guys!
After talking to local mechanics and engine builders, I am having alot of mixed feedback on the proper way to "run in" an engine, for both track and road use. I was hoping to get some more opinions here in this forum.

To summarize;
1.) what do YOU recomend on the procedure to run in a TRACK RACE motor from the point the motor is completely and installed and ready to start.

2.) what do YOU recomend on the procedure to run in a ROAD USE motor from the point the motor is completely and installed and ready to start.

Please include all the nitty bitty details, such as preffered engine oil, 'first' starup procedure, period to idle before driving the motor, total number of miles to run in the motor, etc.

I appreciate any input.
see ya guys!

edmund
 
edmundturner said:
Hi guys!
After talking to local mechanics and engine builders, I am having alot of mixed feedback on the proper way to "run in" an engine, for both track and road use. I was hoping to get some more opinions here in this forum.

To summarize;
1.) what do YOU recomend on the procedure to run in a TRACK RACE motor from the point the motor is completely and installed and ready to start.

2.) what do YOU recomend on the procedure to run in a ROAD USE motor from the point the motor is completely and installed and ready to start.

Please include all the nitty bitty details, such as preffered engine oil, 'first' starup procedure, period to idle before driving the motor, total number of miles to run in the motor, etc.

I appreciate any input.
see ya guys!

edmund

Did you even search? Or better yet... Read the first 11 pages of this thread. It is asked and answered at least ten freakin times. This thing has been going on since '03. Read it and ye shall find what ye seek.

geez.

Ryan :talon:
 
i'm a bit confused on the break in period of an act 2100 clutch. i've read in the forums that its about 300 miles? what all does that include? just daily driving? any info on an absolute perfect break in of this clutch would be greatly appreciated. thank you.
 
a good 100 miles of stop and go driving should be suffice. i usually get about a undred on it and start ripping the shit out of it and i never have any problems. on my 2600 i drove about 20 miles and started launching the piss out of it, let it cool down and do it again and it worked great.
 
My CFDF clutch reccomends 450-500 miles of break in, Im not sure if the act says 300 but I would check the paperwork that came with it. For a good break in, you are going to need the first 500 miles to be stop and go traffic and dont go WOT at all until you finish break in or else you could risk ruining the disc.

-Steve
 
steve-o_95_GST said:
My CFDF clutch reccomends 450-500 miles of break in, Im not sure if the act says 300 but I would check the paperwork that came with it. For a good break in, you are going to need the first 500 miles to be stop and go traffic and dont go WOT at all until you finish break in or else you could risk ruining the disc.

-Steve

correct..if you have a hot dog bun between your legs..... http://www.slowboyracing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49
 
everyone i know locally who has a 2600 does the "beat the loving hell out of it" break in period. ;) Launch it, shift hard, etc.

Mine's been on for 25,000 miles, seen some track time, seen some hard abuse on the streets, and still has quite a bit of material left on it (street disc).

I wouldn't worry about it, personally.
 
There are quite a few posts about this, but I'll give a little insight....It's best not to hold steady high rpms for the first, say, 500 miles or so. I.e. Normal city driving is better than a long-distance highway drive. Don't rip on it too much, but don't try extra hard to go easy on it either -- let the rpms vary; this will help everything seat properly.

Don't forget to check it for leaks periodically -- i.e. check around the valve cover, check for any oil leaks underneath the car, etc (I'd say at least once a day)

A search would yield more indepth results, but this should point you in the right direction.

I'm assuming you're referring to a full rebuild, by the way.
 
I agree. Don't go out and do a night of runs at the track, but then again, don't go and drive across the country. Just like femme said, let the rpm's vary. Don't be too easy or too hard.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top