Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[GTM]

Yes you are right, I do not have a reliable source to back this up. I asked 3 mechanics that have been doing this for 40 years (including my father) and they all said downshifting lightly will seat the rings better. So thats what I did and I've had 0 problems with compression. I apologize for spreading hazardous information thou. If you want I will edit it.

I figured it would be nigh on to impossible.

I think my profile is fairly up to date. However you put me between a rock and a hard spot for it would not be cool to come between father and son. I can say with reasonable certainty that most if not all the Wisemen and other knowlegable members who are professionals including myself would not agree with what you propose.

It's up to you whether you wish to edit your post, we don't know anything about the testimonials of the three you mentioned. When people read what you have written and take it as the truth there comes the liability that they too will follow your advice. When these things run contrary to standard normal shop practices and that of the piston and ring makers their could be consequences. If nothing more it's your reputation and credibility which you are signing your name. When I go outside those boundaries I have 20 to 30 thousand cars under my belt which gives me professional license and enough common sense to know when to suggest some unorthodox procedure.

We are not dealing with an all ceramic engine with cutting edge technology where there is no history, we are dealing with a very high maintenance car with known problems plus those who wish to go beyond the norm in extracting more HP. This is all the more reason to be cautious when giving advice to those who have spent thousands of dollars to build and engine.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[eclipsegst3131]

hey everyone, just got a fully rebuilt motor and i just wanted to know...what should i do to "break it in". i've heard multiple solution to my problem, one being to just baby the hell out of it for 2.5k miles. i've also heard to floor it from 30-50 in 3rd gear about 10 times as soon as i get it out on the road. others have told me to just drive it normally as i would if it had 70k on it and to get on it once in a while shifting at higher rpm's.

also, when should i do my oil changes, i was told, one at 500, then another 2000 miles after it, which is when the 'break in' period is over. any and all help would be awesome. thanks

 

[tstkl]

it really depends on what you think... its your engine...

if you think that the engine needs to be "cleaned out" to start using it, go floor it 10 times... if you think that it needs to get the treatment it would get from normal driving so that it gets used to that driving, do that, and if you feel it needs to be babied, do that, as far as oil changes go, 500 2500 sounds good to me...

 

[Lunch_Box]

Do a search this has been discused many times. I myself will be doing the moto tune method.

 

[eclipsegst3131]

what is the moto tune method?

 

[Lunch_Box]

what is the moto tune method?

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[Gary 420A RS]

500 miles for clutch i say 3k for engine. if it were to a be a brand new engine. 3k. before i put some real forceful driving into it

 

[DSMTalonAWD51]

when i have my engine rebuilt at roadrace, this is what they told me:


for break in: 0-750 miles no boost, stay under 4krpms if you can help it
750-2000 normal driving, low boost, dont floor it
2000-on you should be fine

for oil changes: oil change at 500 miles, another at 1000 miles, from then on every 2000-3000 miles.

Also, do not use synthetic oil for at least the first 3-4k miles, that will give time to work oil in the seals. Synthetic is thinner and your engine may burn/leak oil worse if you use synthetic too soon.

also again, they retorqued the head after 1000 miles

 

[Lunch_Box]

There is tons of controvercy over which method is better. Do what ever you feel comfortable with. The moto tune method makes sense to me and he has proven that it works so that is what I will be doing.

 

[damnthecops]

i know theres going to be soo many diff replies for this but i want to get a few answers
i just built my motor and i need to know the proper break in time
i was told to drive it for 500 not revving past 4k and try not to boost and no highways then get an oil change
then drive another 500 can rev a little higher and get on boost and some highway then oil change
and last just drive as i please
some people have told me dont break it in just drive it and the rings will still seal fine i really dont know who to listen too this is my 1st built motor

 

[Amar1995]

That's gotta be one of the most common questions on this site. Use the Search Function next time

Engine Break in

 

[blackGSX2g]

Everyone has their own opinion on this. I searched for everyones opinion on it and made my own decision based on what I thought made sense to me. For my motor, I did the 'Motoman' method:

Use regular 10W30 oil.
Before you fire up the engine, remove the MPI fuse and crank the engine several times to build oil pressure.
Put the MPI fuse back, start the engine and immediately take it to 1.5-2K to maintain the oil pressure so the lifters fill with oil and the cams bed properly.
No matter what you do, don't let the engine idle.
When the engine warms up and the coolant temperature is normal, bring the RPM to 3K and hold it there for 20-30 minutes.
Let the RPM drop, adjust the idle and timing.
When done, shut the engine off, check for any oil/coolant leaks, change the oil and the oil filter and let the engine cool down.
If everything checks out OK, take the car for a spin and several 30-65-30 mph pulls at stock boost level.
At this point, the engine is fully broken in, but you might want to take it easy for a few more days and keep an eye on oil/coolant leaks, loose bolts and hoses, etc.
Change the oil/oil filter at 500 miles again.

There's absolutely no need to drive 500 miles under 3K or 1500 miles without boosting. As a matter of fact, you can tune the car and race the engine the same day you install it.

 

[DSMeanie]

What brands of oil out there that contain no Zinc?

 

[tmizer]

Non-detergent oils shouldn't have any zinc. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and search the virgin oil analysis forum.

Here's one search result.

 

[tsunari]

Dunno if it doesn't have any Zinc in it, but I just threw some Castrol GTX 10W40 in mine for the break-in and haven't had any problems . . . compression #s are fine

 

[silvercoupe97]

Normally, I don't bring back old posts. This post is a good one though. For me...it applies since my motor is rebuilt.
And also... see, some noobs do use the search function . Good stuff here.
I do the "break it in like you would drive it" break in. Works for me...

 

[Spookcorleone]

Normal, none-synthetic oil until the first oil change... Drive it 'hard' but don't take it to 6K, no need to - and turn the boost down just abit. (Maybe return it to stock.)

I heard alot of stories that when you don't break it in with making the engine acce/decc by putting load on it the rings won't seal correctly.

I would say break it in like you would drive it - but if youre the type of person that loves to hit 7K, or loves to stay under 2.5K RPMs for a break-in... dont break it in like you'd drive it... break it in like you'd ... want to drive it? I confused myself.

3000-4000 RPMs until warmup (on first start up) is what I've been told. Then use 3rd or 4th gear to keep load on the engine for the first 20 so miles (keeping the engine pumping creates alot of combustion pressure, which helps seal the rings - again, from WHAT I AM TOLD) Then drive ... not hard, but not babyin' it.

Some think its good to change the oil at 1000, then at 3000 miles, then change to synthetic

 

[silvercoupe97]

I would say break it in like you would drive it - but if youre the type of person that loves to hit 7K, or loves to stay under 2.5K RPMs for a break-in... dont break it in like you'd drive it... break it in like you'd ... want to drive it? I confused myself.

I follow ya. Sounds like we're on the same page on this too.

 

[SpoolinV8ETR]

I tried lookin around and still didnt find anything.



Is it going to hurt the motor at all if when you first start it somethin just doesnt seem right and you turn it off. Mind you its not at operating temp ect... Im not even at this point but was thinkin about this today.

Im still worried as all hell that when i get to this point that somethings not going to go right or im going to break it in the wrong way and screw up the motor.

 

[Catbox_95]

No. If you start it up for the first time, and you hear something wrong, definitely shut it down. This has no effect on the breaking in, but the strange noise could be detrimental.

 

[Defiant]

Im still worried as all hell that when i get to this point that somethings not going to go right or im going to break it in the wrong way and screw up the motor.

Welcome to engine building. First startup, the first few times you put a motor together, is nerve-wracking. Not much of a way around it. Just take solace in the knowledge that you've just done the job, and if you have to do it over you'll mostly remember how.
Too bad you missed the engine build-off on SPEEDTV yesterday. Two (V8) motors assembled from parts on the bench, from the bare block up to running in 18 minutes.

 

[hereitcomes]

All break-in stories are guesses. There are so many different methods and hints that it apparently doesn't really matter- and matters less now than twenty years ago, when a "high-mileage" engine was 60,000 miles. We have kids hotrodding DSMs at _triple_ that mileage, and killing parts other than the engine.

The "rule" I was told early, and have had success with (over a quarter-million miles on my '69 Datsun 2000, which I rebuilt and broke in) is to drive the new engine the way you intend to drive it for its whole life.

this might possibly be the best break-in quote ever. Im doing exaclty this. thanks defiant.

 

[Deathmug]

Hey everybody!

I just bought a turbonetics TO4B 50 trim for $700.
I will have my new engine in next week.
My question is, should I break the engine in w/ the old turbo before putting on the new one?
The guys @ SBR said I should probably do that, so the metal particles (from the rings) don’t mess up my new turbo.

Anyone know about that?

 

[Crawl]

Ok I will be getting my car back shortly, I have a new engine built by Overbore.com with .02 over, 3g lifters, all that. I also installed a new Clutch and Fidanza flywheel at the same time.

Just looking for advice on how long of a wear In I should give these parts and what restrictions I shoudl use, after all the trouble Ive had the last thing I want is to hurt it haha.

I know obviously with the new clutch no hard launches or hard shifts.

What other advice you guys got for me, and please Im being serious so you can leave the flames and unhelpful suggestions out.

 

[Deathmug]

I would not run more than 12psi of boost until about 3000 miles.
Do an oil change @ 500, 1000, 2000, & 3000mi.
After that, you’ll probably be in good shape.