Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

BrokeTurbo · Oct 10, 2002

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

jott5555 · Jan 31, 2005

ive got 600 miles on mine. i started it for about 10 min let it run and warm up..then shut it down drove it for about 5 miles. didnt go over 4000rpm

then i took it on a 50 mile drive from 2000-5000 rpm then recently i did some 20+psi pulls and no smoke and it runs super..

Defiant · Jan 31, 2005

Please refer to any earlier, open, engine break-in thread.

moonstation2000 · Feb 23, 2005

i found this website mototuneusa.com. what do you guys think of his engine break in theory? :confused:

"What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.

The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again."

i1nk83 · Feb 23, 2005

what website did that come from ive seen it before. i think the person that wrote this article actually does this to brand new motorcycles. good theory, who knows

92redman · Feb 23, 2005

That is they way most engine builders I know get it done. It doesn't matter if it's on the dyno or on the street, just get it warmed up and then make some pulls gradually working your way up to wot.

1fast97gsx · Feb 23, 2005

yep that's how I did it as well. Realistically, just let it warm up fully and drive it normally with a few bursts of semi wot and eventually wot. After the first 50 miles or so just drive it normally occasionally beating on it. Worked great for me.

half-cocked · Feb 23, 2005

This is Motoman's break in theory and yes he builds motorcycle engines. He backs this up with some CBR600F3 pistons from 2 motors. One broke in hard, one easy and the results support his theory. The Hard break in pistons are pretty clean while the easy break in pistons show signs of blow by.

Lunch_Box · Feb 23, 2005

I have heard this to. I have a 2.4L engine in being rebuilt right now so what this is saying is to run the engine hard for the first 20 miles?

Defiant · Feb 24, 2005

kriegular · Mar 18, 2005

I need some advice as far as what my car will be able to handle.
here is what i had done and we can go from there.

6 bolt swap into my fwd 95 tsi
ported polished head, 5 angle valve job
264/272 HKS cams
PTE 57 trim turbo
the block was honed and new pistons were put in also.

what type of mileage will be a good break in for the car, and what type of oil should i use and how often should i change it.
thanks,
mike

Burnett03 · Mar 18, 2005

kriegular said:
I need some advice as far as what my car will be able to handle.
here is what i had done and we can go from there.

6 bolt swap into my fwd 95 tsi
ported polished head, 5 angle valve job
264/272 HKS cams
PTE 57 trim turbo
the block was honed and new pistons were put in also.

what type of mileage will be a good break in for the car, and what type of oil should i use and how often should i change it.
thanks,
mike

there are DOZENS of break in threads and many different opinions on it. Use the search

1998gst · Mar 18, 2005

Anywhere from 500 to 1000 miles for break in. I use Mobil 1 10W-30 for summer months and 5W-30 for winter. I change it every 2700-3000 miles and I use the Mobil 1 oil filter also. I think next time I am going to give the new Quaker state a try. Also back to the Mitsu stock filter if I do this. Just wanna try it out. I have used Royal Purple but was really impressed for the cost. Hope this helps....
-Mike

Defiant · Mar 19, 2005

kriegular said:
I need some advice as far as what my car will be able to handle.
here is what i had done and we can go from there.

That part's bench racing, and prohibited here.

what type of mileage will be a good break in for the car, and what type of oil should i use and how often should i change it.

And there are many break-in and oil threads already going.

ahaidet · Apr 20, 2005

I have brand new Mitsubishi rings and Pistons as well as nearly everthing else new/machined. However I would like to know what the "official" procedure is for break in.. I recently read the thread with the poor guy having all the trouble with the topline kit that doesn't reccomend any specific break in. I know not to use synthetic. But as for driving procedures other than avoiding redline what do you guys reccomend or better yet what did/ does Mitsubishi reccomend. With any luck the new rebuild will start up this weekend and be ready for her break in.

2bar · Apr 21, 2005

There are some mixed feelings on engine brake in. I've seen some start engine and then drive it like the normaly would, And it works. Piston and ring tech has come along way from the old days. Meny racers have no brake in period at all. but there engines are not daily drivers. This is how I would recomend you break your engine in.

When you first start the engine hold the rpms between 2-3k untill engine is fully warmed up for initial break in. once this is done set you timing make sure you have no leaks and then go on the high way for at least 30 miles. Once on the highway in fourth of fifth gear Go from 40-70 under light accel to seat the rings. Once this is done try not to do any big pulls for 1000 miles then change the oil.

When installing pistons do not over oil them or they will not fully seat. Light oil on the cylinder wall, some on the skirt and some on the rings them selves. Also make sure to space all your ring gaps and set the gap correctly.

DJpHGotBanned · Apr 21, 2005

This topic might get a heated discussion going.

What I remember them doing at the shop was holding it a 3K for quite a few minutes, change oil, 3K again.. change oil.. then run the piss out of it for the first 40 or so miles to seat the rings in. Change oil... Run the piss out of it for another few hundred miles.. etc etc. Synthetic oil is a big no-no.

kalla · Apr 21, 2005

I was told by a very knowledgable mitsu service manager (and DSM mechanic) to do the following:

1. Start the car and let it idle high (2000 or so) for 20 min. This allows you to check for leaks or anything else that might be wrong, and of course if something was done badly wrong during the rebuild it will most likely go wrong here.

2. Turn the boost down low (7 psi or so) and do several 3rd gear pulls to 6k rpm, releasing the throttle and let the motor slow the car down each time (do not use the brakes). The rings should now be seated. Go home and change the oil, and change it often.

ltho98 · Apr 26, 2005

Here's the method I used, i trust it.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Awdboost · Apr 27, 2005

I just let the car warm up, check for leaks, took it out in 2nd gear. cycled,
2K to 4K and decel staying in gear back to 2K.
2K to 6K decel staying in gear back to 2K.
2k to 8K and decel staying in gear. back to 2k..
Drove it nice for the first 50 mile, changed the oil, and have been beating on it.

I also am using regular motor oil and change it at 100 miles.. I will be switching to synthetic at 1K miles.

:thumb:

wortdog · Apr 27, 2005

The 'idle at 2k for xx amount of time' on initial startup is for breaking in a new cam/lifter combination in a pushrod motor. No need to do that with a 4G63.

Defiant · Apr 28, 2005

ahaidet said:
I would like to know what the "official" procedure is for break in.

There isn't one.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/search.php?searchid=849233

GTM · Apr 28, 2005

ltho98 said:
Here's the method I used, i trust it.

Nothing like having an opinion tooting your own horn. I would take issue with a DYI going out and running a newly built engine at high rpm. The opportunity for disaster and total destruction is real whereas a more cautious approach where engine can be subjected to stresses and loads at various speeds could save an engine.

This discussion occurred within the last week and a member consulted with the piston and ring maker who still recommends something on the order of 4th gear pulls in the 20-50 repeated about 6 times. I've used this process for 30+ years and never had any problem or oil consumption.

Cheers,
GTM

G9S1X · Apr 28, 2005

Do not use synthetic oil for break in. I let it idle for about 20 minutes checking for leaks and ign timing.

--editing this so you guys don't blow your engines :thumb:

--

sorry

GTM · Apr 28, 2005

G9S1X said:
Do
...
did A LOT of downshifting and decelerations in lower gears to seat the rings, if the rings are going to break it will be here. Then try not to go WOT until ~800 miles.

That runs so contrary to what every piston and ring maker will _ever_ tell you. This is just not the thing you should be spreading over the internet. If you can cite one reliable source for suggesting this other than your buddy told you I'll give you the courtesy of reading it. If there was ever an opportunity to glaze cylinder walls, pistons and rings this would be it. Because you got away with it does NOT make it so. This just is not the forum for spreading unsupported urban legends with nominal experience.

Cheers,
GTM

G9S1X · Apr 28, 2005

Yes you are right, I do not have a reliable source to back this up. I asked 3 mechanics that have been doing this for 40 years (including my father) and they all said downshifting lightly will seat the rings better. So thats what I did and I've had 0 problems with compression. I apologize for spreading hazardous information thou. If you want I will edit it.

The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

BrokeTurbo

jott5555

Defiant

moonstation2000

i1nk83

92redman

1fast97gsx

half-cocked

Lunch_Box

Defiant

kriegular

Burnett03

1998gst

Defiant

ahaidet

2bar

DJpHGotBanned

kalla

ltho98

Awdboost

wortdog

Defiant

GTM

G9S1X

GTM

G9S1X

Similar threads

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds