Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

BrokeTurbo · Oct 10, 2002

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

96Clipse4U · Nov 18, 2004

i just bought a slowboy stage 2 block and i was wondering what kind of oil i should use i dont know if i should change it or what cause i ran mobil 1 synthetic 10w 30 so what do u guys think

blackGSX2g · Nov 18, 2004

From what I've heard from numerous sources is to use regular non-synthetic oil for the first 500-2000 miles. It helps break in the rings and the bearings. After about 3k miles, its safe to swithch back to Mobile 1 synth. I will be using regular 10w30 for my break-in, then switch to Mobile 1.

NOSLO2PT0 · Nov 18, 2004

96Clipse4U said:
i just bought a slowboy stage 2 block and i was wondering what kind of oil i should use i dont know if i should change it or what cause i ran mobil 1 synthetic 10w 30 so what do u guys think

I really hope you didn't. You MUST use conventional/dino oil when you first run a fresh motor. if you use synthetic, the rings will NOT seat properly, and never will, because the synthetic is just too slick. Too much lubrication. You use a 10W30 conventional oil for 50 miles. then change. Then change again at 500 miles. Then you can switch to a synthetic. Also, vary the rpms you drive at. run it up to 4-5k first couple 40-50 miles. then run it up to redline a few times in the first couple hundred miles. run it to redline, then let off gas. Best way to break in a new motor. Pray your rings actually seated. Otherwise, you gonna have shitty comp. #'s for the life of that motor

4wd-Eclipse · Nov 18, 2004

I hope this will help

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

aleccolin · Nov 19, 2004

beat me to it.

Basically in the absence of a dyno, just do a couple of third gear pulls from about 2K through about 6K at WOT. At the end of each, just hop off the throttle and let the engine brake the car down. Do this ONLY after the engine is up to full operating temperature and you're sure there aren't any other mechanical problems. The piston rings are the ONLY thing in your engine that require "break-in", but they'll never fully seat if you drive like a grandma. Oh yeah, dino oil only and change it after 500 miles once you're sure the rings have seated fully.

SlowboyCSE · Nov 19, 2004

It states right on mobil 1's website they don't recommend using synthetic oil for break in. They recommend engines to run between 1500 and 2500 miles before seeing synthetic. I would post the link but mobil changed there website to "we now sponsor everything F1" and my link is dead.

Cragger

TSIfreek · Nov 19, 2004

drain the synthetic oil and put in the regualr oil and drive it hard and then drain it agian after 50 miles or sooner to get any of that syntheic oil out that may be left in the motor. Make sure you have full operating temp before you stand on it.

drivemusicnow · Nov 19, 2004

I think he meant he put synthetic in before the rebuild.. at least thats what it sounds like from the word usage. But yeah, all above comments are correct.. no synthetic to break-in

ProjectTalon130 · Nov 19, 2004

The # 1 reason I read that you should change the oil so quickly and use regular oil is that regular oil is thicker and will catch the impurities such as metals and shavings from the machining process of the block along with what others have said on seating rings, etc correctly. And yes change the oil several times throughout the breakin process..i would almost wait 10K to go Synthetic but that's just me :thumb:

baby huie · Nov 25, 2004

ok i have just rebuilt my moter and my turbo was going to take a shit soon so i bought a new one should i break it in with the old turbo or should i break it in with the new one on there. will it hurt the new turbo if i leave it on during break in period its a 50 trim oil only cooled what u guys think

eclipse90gsxt · Nov 25, 2004

I would personally use the old turbo. Just incase anything runs through it, its always good to be safe.

An example..http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154452

anconover · Nov 25, 2004

That is far from true. Many turbo's are strictly oil cooled centers, and last just as long. All PTE turbo's are strictly oil cooled centers unless you ask to have a water/oil cooled center. My PTE, only oil cooled has 10k and no signs of wear. Use your old turbo for an engine break in, as you must use non synthetic oil to break in the motor, then can switch to synthetic. IMO id personally want to run strictly synthetic in a new turbo than switching around. Probly wouldnt be a problem, but im picky.

Staytuned · Nov 25, 2004

^ Yes after reading that thread I would agree it looks suspiciously like contaminated oil ruined that turbo.

anconover · Nov 25, 2004

the new turbo is the strictly oil cooled 50trim, he never mentioned what the old turbo was, wich was probly stock. So i wouldnt say contaminated oil killed it. Id guess it WASNT contaminated oil, but age.

baby huie · Nov 26, 2004

ok i wasnt asking what kidded m old turbo it was a stock t25 with 80k on it i know whi it died i was wondering if i put the new turbo on in break in period is it gonna burn out my turbo. if i have to put the stock junker back on its gonna be apain in the ass cause have all water lines blocked off and woulf have to talkt it back off.

me612 · Nov 26, 2004

You'll be fine using the new turbo. Turbos don't really require any sort of break in besides making sure you get some oil up in it before you start up the car. Only thing that would kinda be crappy is that you'll have to do your engine break in pulls with the new turbo on there, and you won't be tuned perfectly right off the bat with that turbo on there. But just keep it at a safe boost level for the break in pulls. Anywho, good luck with it, I'm sure it'll all go smoothly for ya!!!

pballernh · Nov 26, 2004

I don't think his issue is whether the turbo needed a break in period but whether installing a new and expensive turbo on a fresh motor will be hazardous. When you break in your new motor I would suggest starting with the old turbo and switching to the new when you switch to synthetic (you are switching to synthetic?) oil. During break in there will be metal particles getting into your oiling system and filters will remove most of them but that isn't a chance I would take.

4geze63 · Dec 6, 2004

Getting my engine rebuild starting on the 13th, Just wondering for how many miles I should baby it for.

after the rebuild it will have around 330hp if that has anything todo with break-in time.

Im going to use synthedic, I once heard that it s best to use regular oil after a rebuild and then goto synthedic.. some1 clear this up.

thx

BMWHATR · Dec 6, 2004

Whats being done to the car? (parts changed)

4geze63 · Dec 6, 2004

well i currently have around 280ish (g-tech). after the rebuild I will have all the parts in my profile and the new additions after the rebuild will be.

Slowboy manifold (ported)
buschur j-pipe
upper ic pipe with 3" gm maft+translator
550cc

bor .20 possibly going with 8.5.1 compression, balanceshaft eliminator, no ac.

with those parts i figure i would see around 320-330 hp.
Then I will get in dyno tuned after its nicely broken in.

I know 50 hp increase seams alot but im optimistic because i hit 280 on an engine with 230 000km venting, semi-tuned and with poor compression in cylinders 1-2-3 at 15 psi

pinknuggit · Dec 6, 2004

noooooo.... don't use synthetic for breakin. Use dino oil for the first few thousand miles. Synthetic oil will keep the rings from seating, and you will wear off your crosshatch before your rings form shape.

Your engine breakin is the most critical in the first 50 or so miles. Within these few miles, you need to do a few 3rd gear pulls to redline and let the engine slow the car down. This vacuum helps pull oil up past the rings, which helps them seat. Your engine will smoke when doing this so don't worry. The first 50 miles should be full of city driving, and engine deceleration. Don't baby it, but don't beat on it. Like i said, this is the most critical time. You want the cylinder crosshatch to form the rings to the cylinder wall, but you can only do this by engine braking and giving it a little throttle wherever you go. After the first 50 miles, change the oil and drive it like you normally would. 300 miles, change the oil again, and you're good to go. You're gonna want to switch to synthetic after you stop seeing smoke coming from the exhaust under engine deceleration.

On the maiden voyage, keep an eye on things like oil pressure, coolant temp, and keep an eye on the motor for any leaks.

2.4 turbo Hyped · Dec 6, 2004

I would strongly advise against "babying" the vehicle after an engine rebuild. Here is my reasoning. The rings need to seat and in order to do that they need a strong outward force. There is a very small window of opportunity to "seat" the rings. When I built my 2.4 liter stroker the first time I fired it up I let it reach operating temperature and I took that sucker out and goat raped it up to 4500 rpms. I have done several compression checks and over 8000 miles later they all still sit at 180 on every piston. On other motors I have built for friends they "baby" the engine for break in and there compression numbers alway vary around 15 psi on each cylinder. The key to a good ring seating session is running that sucker up to 4500 in 1st second and third and then winding it down using the engine as a brake. Do about 5 or 6 runs like that and your rings will have seated. It doesnt take much but the first 20 miles are crucial. I have had no other compression issues since the break in.

jfdid · Dec 6, 2004

Re-itterating what has been said:
1. Use dino oil for the first 200-500 miles or so.
2. Don't baby it, but I CERTAINLY wouldn't take it to redline. As stated, probably about 4500 RPM or so. You need the revs for vacuum, and for the rings to seat correctly.
3. Don't bog the engine.
4. If you can.....prime the oil pump before you put on the timing belt, or if the belt's already on, pull the MPI fuse, and spark plugs, crank the engine over until you see some oil pressure. Then start.
5. Different people have different opinions on when to change the oil, but I do it at 50 miles, then 200, then 1700 miles.

Important: Try to make it so that the first time you start your car, you can let it warm up completely, and then time the engine. Then go for a drive.

Good luck.

2.4 turbo Hyped · Dec 6, 2004

I would advise against synthetics in these motors but this is just my opinion. It seems that every synthetic I have tried on a mitsu motor creates so many leaks that it negates the so called "benefits" of the oil. I still dont understand how the synthetics protect the motor better as the stuff is thinner than water. Ill stick to 20w50 castrol. Nice and thick and protects these motors the best from what Ive seen.

Defiant · Dec 7, 2004

The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

BrokeTurbo

96Clipse4U

blackGSX2g

NOSLO2PT0

4wd-Eclipse

aleccolin

SlowboyCSE

TSIfreek

drivemusicnow

ProjectTalon130

baby huie

eclipse90gsxt

anconover

Staytuned

anconover

baby huie

me612

pballernh

4geze63

BMWHATR

4geze63

pinknuggit

2.4 turbo Hyped

jfdid

2.4 turbo Hyped

Defiant

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