Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[My96AWD]

Drive really really easy and really really slow.

wrong the only thing that does is make your car run worse then it could have and be slower have have more problems then if you did it right. don't get me wrong though don't go out and hammer down on it either. first off don't start the car till your ready to take ti out and no synth oil. second start the car check for leaks odd noises ect. let it fully warm up. take it out, give it some gas and go up in the rpms in 3rd gear to like 4g take your foot off the gas and let the motor slow you down, not the brakes. do that about 10 times. come home park chang oil and filter. after that your motor is about as broke in as its gonna get. keep in mind that your rings are pretty well seated in the first 30 mins of running. the rest is during the next 1500 miles. after that you can switch to synthetic. if anything goes wrong it would have anyway later down the road. the main cause of a motor rebuild going wrong is poor rebuild.

 

[me612]

First off, if you don't know, then why answer with bad info? Anywho, BEFORE you even start the engine, u need to get the oil spread around somewhat because right now it's just been sitting in the oil pan. You can unhook the mpi fuse and crank it over a couple times to get some oil pressure built up and get the oil distributed somewhat. Then you're going to start it, and pretty much just like the gentleman said before me. You will take it out for break-in pulls. The reason for this is because when the engine is honed, you will notice the crosshair pattern on the cylinder walls. Well that pattern will act sorta like a file and when you give her some gas, you'll cause the rings to push up against the walls, and the crosshair will file them sorta so that they match up nicely against the walls because rings aren't perfectly shaped outta the box. After a short period of time, that pattern will wear out and no longer act as a file. So it's important you do this right from the get go. Here is a site that will explain it a lot more. I got this link from James92tsi off dsmtalk. Hope this helps a little.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

here's another good link to a topic on dsmtalk on how to break in an engine properly
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=116788&highlight=engine+break+process

 

[1gfromND]

hey lets take it easy i was just goofin

 

[me612]

hey lets take it easy i was just goofin

Riiiight... why post BS then?

 

[1gfromND]

hey i figured that there are...what?..like 4.6 million similiar posts on the subject and was poking fun

 

[draxus83]

ummm no actually i looked well i know theres a little info in the vfaq.com
the "dsm bible" might wanna check there i read it about a month ago or so or you can just take (me612 and My96AWD) advice there pretty much on point the only thing they forgot to do was say to fluch the oil befor you change to synthetic and i swear by
royal purple
it's kinda $$ but i felt the difference the first time i run it

 

[me612]

only thing they forgot to do was say to fluch the oil befor you change to synthetic

That info, plus some, is in the links.

 

[ambcamry]

Just rebuild my engine changing everything (bearings, seals, crankshaft, Exedy clutch kit, etc). How do i break in the engine?

Were did you get your rebuild kit at? How much did it cost?

Thanks,Aaron

 

[Yoda_95TSI]

I saw a few threads on engine break in after a rebuild, but I can't find them again. Any ideas from anyone on breaking in a newly rebuilt engine?

Thanks

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

roughly 500miles or when you feel it's broken in.

really 500-1000 miles

Derek

 

[Yoda_95TSI]

Any advice on RPMs, shifting, I'm planning on dumping the oil after 500 miles as well.

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

it depends on who you ask, but I would stay out of boost as much as possible for the first 500 miles. shift around 3500-4000 max. That is the safe way, you could go a little more, but not much, brake in is very important. Also what oil you using. I recamend mobil one since it's been rebuilt. Thats what I'm going to run in my 1990 laser when head gets done from mitch. Can't wait.

Derek

 

[Yoda_95TSI]

I'm planning on running regular for the first 500, then Mobil 1. No reason to dump Mobil 1 in it and then dump it right back out.

 

[thegreatms]

that is not the correct way to break in a engine.

to break in a engine you have to drive it hard. You need to seat the rings before the hone gets worn down.
here is a post from another board from Taboo:

"Use regular 10W30 oil.
Before you fire up the engine, remove the MPI fuse and crank the engine several times to build oil pressure.
Put the MPI fuse back, start the engine and immediately take it to 1.5-2K to maintain the oil pressure so the lifters fill with oil and the cams bed properly.
No matter what you do, don't let the engine idle.
When the engine warms up and the coolant temperature is normal, bring the RPM to 3K and hold it there for 20-30 minutes.
Let the RPM drop, adjust the idle and timing.
When done, shut the engine off, check for any oil/coolant leaks, change the oil and the oil filter and let the engine cool down.
If everything checks out OK, take the car for a spin and several 30-65-30 mph pulls at stock boost level.
At this point, the engine is fully broken in, but you might want to take it easy for a few more days and keep an eye on oil/coolant leaks, loose bolts and hoses, etc.
Change the oil/oil filter at 500 miles again.

There's absolutely no need to drive 500 miles under 3K or 1500 miles without boosting. As a matter of fact, you can tune the car and race the engine the same day you install it. "


also look for a websit by a guy name "motoman" he has good info on breaking in motors

 

[wiryd]

<a href="http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm">Here is a link to that site by motoman</a>.

 

[Defiant]

Congratulations, you've stumbled onto what may be the only topic that may contain more myth than the motor oil question.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82689

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75638

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56188

I still think that if you have the sense to ask the question, your motor is going to be fine.

 

[1fast97gsx]

just drive it normal .. break in was for old school cars. Nowdays the cars break in right away .. I just like to take it easy for 100 miles or so to check for leaks or anything else that could go wrong. I ran 10w30 penzoil for the first 1000 miles ... then mobil 1 synthetic 10w30.

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

like I said in the beginning everyone has there own method, that is just mine. I guess I'm too carful, but only making 6 dollars an hour working on go-carts I have to make sure everything is done right, because I can't afford to do it again.

Derek

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

more info here
http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htm

 

[91orangeGST]

I just got my 91 GST engine rebuilt ( head, rings, bearings, oil pump) and I'm putting it in tommorow and im a newbie on breaking in of an engine! My goal is to boost it at 14 psi. My question is what psi should I start at and how lond should I drive it easy for and at what psi! Any help with do!

Kyle,

 

[Royalty]

THey r gonna eat u alive....I'll be running my engine for the 1st time next week as well.

THey will say use the search button, and blah blah blah like that. :laugh: hope u can take a bashing.

 

[91orangeGST]

I just used the search button and found out all I needed

 

[Lunch_Box]

It is amazing what that button can do for you.

 

[smokey90gsx]

haha. Anyway, who did the rebuild for you? Or did you do it yourself?

 

[91orangeGST]

I got a local shop to do it for me. Ive been reading up on a "hard break in", run it hard for the first 50 miles! What do you guys think about that. Is it the truth or bs?\

Kyle,