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1G Electrical Problem Please Help!!!!!

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91talon27

15+ Year Contributor
214
0
Jun 13, 2005
Middletown, Ohio
Sorry if this has already been posted, I searched and find anything maybe overlooked it though. I put a new battery in may no problems until September. Changed alternator now the battery is loosing charge. Had them checked at local Autozone they said both alternator and battery are good. I can fully charge the battery and when driving the car in an hour or so the car shudders then dies. The battery is completely dead. I've tried 3 alternators still doesn't hold a charge. I am tired of being stranded on the side of the road. Please Help!!!!! :talon:
 
if the battery is good and the alternator is good i have to ask did you have any audio stuff put in the car like a amp, deck, cap? also your battery might be bad. I left the dome light on in my car and didn't get back in my car for like 2 weeks (it wasn't licensed so i couldn't drive it) and i had an optima red top battery and it was dead, i would charge it and it would die shortly after, so i got a new battery under warranty :thumb:
 
The first thing we tell people with battery/alternator problems to do is measure the voltage at the battery with the car off and again with it running. If the voltage is below 12v with the car running then check it at the alternator. If it's 12v or less at the battery and higher at the alternator stud then the most likely problem is you've blown the alternator fuse.

Steve
 
The corrcet way to do it would be to measure for voltage drop from the alternator to B+, that would uncover any unwanted resistance, you also should measure the voltage output at the alternator, you should get around 14.5v. Another test you can do is full field the alterantor by bypassing the conrtols, make sure you do not go over 16 volts. let us know if you find anything. It defenetly sounds like the alternator though since it dies while running P.S. if none of these things help, I would measure the current drawn by your car at idle. Although you can only get specs for ignition off draw, i think if there was so much current gettign drawn that your car dies you would be able to tell.
 
Checked the output today with the car off the battery had 12.22 volts while running the 11.90 volts at the alternator post is was putting out 12.00 volts isn't that low for an alternator.
 
With the alternator the volts should be around 13.8-14 volts. It seems like you have a bad ground. Check your 100A alternator fuse as well.
 
91talon27 said:
Checked the output today with the car off the battery had 12.22 volts while running the 11.90 volts at the alternator post is was putting out 12.00 volts isn't that low for an alternator.
check how much current you are getting from the alt. with all acc. on you should get close to 100amps with everything off about 20 amps. If your current reading is too low you can check for resistance in the coil of the alt. should be 3-5 ohms. sounds like your belt is slipping though make sure it's not to tight or to loose
 
8A-16 ENGINE ELECTRICAL -- Charging System <Turbo>
Items except for Canada with A/T Canada with A/T
Generator
Type Battery voltage sensing Battery voltage sensing
Identification No. A2TA0891 A2T82791
Part No. MD313392 MD310997
Rated output V/A 12/75 12/90
Voltage regulator Electronic built-in type Electronic built-in type
SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS N16AC00AB
Items Specifications
Generator
Standard value
Regulated voltage V
Ambient temp. at voltage regulator
--20_C (--4_F) 14.2--15.4
20_C (68_F) 13.9--14.9
60_C (140_F) 13.4--14.6
80_C (176_F) 13.1--14.5
Field coil resistance Ù Approx. 3--5
Limit
Output current 70% of nominal output current
 
i agree with everyone else check grounds and return line from alternator to battery to make sure its getting voltage... you might also check your terminals for poor connection
 
Check alternator to ground.
Check alternator to positive battery.

If these are good and you do not get 13+ volts with the car running from the alternator post to the alternator shell then the alternator is bad...period.
 
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