Electrical Problem '97 Talon

[Renopolous]

So I hate trying to get a diagnosis from the internet but I've tested everything I can think of.
My problem started when my DRLs would stay on. I removed the turbo timer that was in the car, then I removed all the aftermarket wiring from the car but the DRLs would stay on when the car was off so I pulled the DRL module itself, I then noticed my Blower fan works with the key off too along with my ABS making clicking noises when the cars off too. I traced the wiring from the DRL module back to the fuse box and the wire was in good shape and there are no taps in the wiring but for some reason the wire is still receiving power. I then took apart the fuse box to see if there was a leak of power but found nothing but decided to replace the fusebox itself with one from a '98 eclipse but then noticed I was from a US model and didn't have DRLs. It solved nothing..
After I swapped in the "new" fuse box my switched power to my radio along quit out so I swapped my fuse box out with the original and now my horn comes on and stays on when I turn on my headlights, the headlights themselves won't turn off after turned on, my blower motor won't turn on and my power locks don't work...
I seem to be causing more problems then solving them so if anyone could point me in the right direction that'd be great.. I've heard the horn this could be related to the alternator choke fuse but it looks pretty solid to me, I'll swap it out tomorrow anyways and see what happens. I feel some problems could have been caused by putting in the "wrong" fuse box and causing some kind of short.

 

[Renopolous]

Update: The relays seem to be stuck on for some reason. If I mess around with the horn button you can eventually start to hear the horn relay unstick and start clicking(I unplugged the horn for the moment because of this problem) then I can turn on/off the headlights. The relays will start to stick again after I press the doors lock button or turn on the blower motor (which isn't working anyways).
I have checked the alt. choke fuse and it is fine, I put a multi meter to it too to be sure. The connection was kind of corroded but I cleaned it up but no prevail. I then cleaned up some of the ECU wires because I'm desperate and obviously that did nothing.

 

[jstory352]

Have you tried replacing any of the relays in the circuits that are giving you problems. If the relay contact is stuck closed when you don't have power applied it would cause symptoms like you are having. But it does sound like you are getting some stray voltage somewhere in you fuse box. Hope this helps some and if you have anymore questions just ask.

 

[PlanZero]

This will probably be of no help, but I can sympathize with frustrating electrical problems. My 97 had a myriad of radio, interior light and horn problems. After trying everything including an ecu swap (the 2gs are also severely problematic with emissions sensors resetting after key off) I found the problem, a loose "room lamp" fuse.
Also while putting my buddy's car back together to get it on a flatbed I accidentally put the battery in backwards! I'm so used to the batteries I use I didn't realize I put it in backwards and wow I blew quite a few fuses. Before I realized how stupid I was I was chasing fuses and relays as my wipers and horn weren't turning off, lights etc.
One more thing, I thought I had a whiny fuel pump. Then one day my headlights were shutting off randomly. Turns out the whine was through my speakers. I tightened down the ground wire on the neg batt cable and problem solved.
I guarantee it's something stupid and simple.

 

[Renopolous]

Update: So a while ago I tiding up some wiring (pulling an HID kit out to be exact) and had to dig into the harness by the rad coming from the fuse box. Turns out there was some rubbing from my intercooler piping. The blower fan shorted out to the DRLs. Fixed it up and haven't had an issue since. An issue that I've been chasing for a year could have been solved by removing those crappy HIDs when I got the car!
The issue with the headlights triggering my horn and power locks crapping out etc.. was a non-DRL interior fuse box being put in place for a DRL equipped fuse box I'm assuming. It blew the alternator fuse under the hood.