EGR and cold starts? (Block heater ? also)

[turboglenn]

I've always had a b!tch of a time with really cold starts on my car, I'm talking the mornings where it's not even 12* F yet and has been even colder all night (even worse with E85.. )

PART 1:

So i started thinking about things i could do to get that initial "cold bloodednes" out of the engine and started thinking tht if i could route some warmer air into the cylinders and manifold i could cure this issue (or slightly improve my situation)

What i'm wanting to do is have the EGR open on cold cold starts so that some hot air from when it does kick up and then stalls will enter the intake mani and help keep the fuel vaporized. Now to be honest i don't know much about when the EGR is supposed to open and for how long (emissions is not really my thing) but i have seen it cause terrible stalling on cars when it sticks opens at idle and the engine is warm... But that same car will sit and warm up just fine, but i'm also not sure of the EGR's position when the warm up is happening.

So, anyone got any insight on this?

PART 2:

I finally found a part number for a block heater that goes in the freeze plug on the block for the 4g63 but, since the instructions don't give a recommended frost plug to replace with it, i was wondering if anyone has put one in and what plug you pulled to do it?

I was thinking i'd prefer it on the back of the block, but i don't know if i'd be able to get in there with something sharp or long enough to get the old plug out, and on the front of the motor i'd have to pull the turbo to install it (and deal with the cord near the exh mani) and i'd rather not do that.

Any advice on this one? I don't want to use the type that goes in your radiator hose or is just a magnet as those just seem to cheesy for me and adds more junk to the car to have to d*%k with in the morning. Winter is almost over and hopefully i move some where warmer before the next one, but just in case a block heater is a must on my list of "to do's"

 

[b00stedAWD]

What EMS are you running?

 

[turboglenn]

Haltech E6X, I may have to come up with a way to have enough vacum to open it, but the E6X can control whatever solenoid i would use to actuate it. But, a vacum reseviour that seals really good may be necessary, not sure.

My problem with cold starts is that it will fire up after the first 2-3 hits of the key, then it will fire and run for a few seconds and die. I will have to do this a few more times until i can get it to stay running with the clutch released. And again, this is only in the really cold time of year, I get perfect starts in the summer.

If i bring the primer up any further it starts to flood the engine, and if i bring the coolant enrichments much higher for the E85 then it will be WAY over on pump gas, so i have to search for a happy medium, but nothings ever made it start perfect in the winter except for being garage kept (this is it's first 2 years that she doesn't have a dedicated garage spot)

 

[KGB Pilot125]

I used to use an oil pan heater on my GSX made starts in the winter so much easier especially when running 20w50.

 

[jrohner]

Have you tried more ignition timing for startup and worked on startup enrichment?

My 2g (95 EPROM ECU) starts right up on E85 even when it's below zero with nothing done to help it start better. It also helped it idle better right after startup when I added a quite a bit of timing.

 

[turboglenn]

Have you tried more ignition timing for startup and worked on startup enrichment?

My 2g (95 EPROM ECU) starts right up on E85 even when it's below zero with nothing done to help it start better. It also helped it idle better right after startup when I added a quite a bit of timing.

I have tried everything! Seriously i've had the coolant, air temp and posts tart maps all over the place and when it's really cold it will still take about 4-5 attempts on ump gas and about 10 tries on e85 before she will stay running enough to get out and go inside while she warms up.

But honestly, I haven't met anyone with a stand alone in their car that's heavily modded that will start as goos as OEM in the cold. I'm wondering if it's not partially idle control because the haltech deletes the power to the 2 ISC coils and just drives them from the outter poles *shrugs*

AS for ignition timing, less has made a better improvement. i've been from 5 to 20* on the cranking map at cold temps and 5* works better than anywhere else i've tried so far.

 

[b00stedAWD]

With standalone EMS, you should be able to start and idle your engine without IAC. I'm able to start my car without any heating device even when the temp is 7 degrees outside. Best way is to increase your idle with idle screw and re-adjust your TPS voltage to this new setting. This should help but you still have to make all your engine start settings and idle settings on your Haltech correct to work properly. I run AEM, but Haltech should have similar tables like Start Decay, Initial Crank, Adv Idle, etc.

 

[turboglenn]

With standalone EMS, you should be able to start and idle your engine without IAC. I'm able to start my car without any heating device even when the temp is 7 degrees outside. Best way is to increase your idle with idle screw and re-adjust your TPS voltage to this new setting. This should help but you still have to make all your engine start settings and idle settings on your Haltech correct to work properly. I run AEM, but Haltech should have similar tables like Start Decay, Initial Crank, Adv Idle, etc.

Yea, there's still more that can be done. I've had a lot of luck with working the BISS until now (my BISS fell apart and got stuck in the TB, now it's just bottomed and sealed in)

I have similar tables to AEm ( but easier to figure out i tune AEM's too) IT will actually start first kick and run for 2-3 seconds and then i do that about 5 more times before it actually stays running.. I think if i had a BISS in this TB it would probably help, but looks like i'm back to moving out of the cold (looking like FL ) so that willbe nice.. like i said, it always starts when it's warm. I will ge the block heater in either way though

EDIT: still no one with a block heater has chimed in to say where they have their's mounted at in the block?

 

[MY1GDSM]

I know this is an old post but was wondering if you ever got one in?
I don't have a Block heater but I'm in the same boat as you right now and was looking into getting one myself...
Anyway I figured I'd save some trouble for anyone else searching that stumbled on this thread

here's a link, make sure you read through it all
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/194688-can-i-add-block-heater-my-eagle.html

 

[Beemer92]

My1GDSM and TurboGlenn, I'm in the same boat with the block heater. It does't get as cold as where you are turbo, but here lately its been nucking futs. . Sounds like you have the right idea on using the freeze plug in the rear. I wouldn't attempt to use the front plug. I have seen them mounted up on trucks, suvs, etc up front on the radiator right in front of the transmission cooler. Maybe a similar mounting would work. Gotta take into consideration the AC condensor and the FMIC boys and girls, but I'm sure we can can come up with something.

 

[KGB Pilot125]

I used one of those "heating pad" type stick on deals and stuck it to my oil pan on my old GSX. Worked really well car always warmed up faster and I was on my way in no time. I actually thought about putting them on the engine, tcase and trans.

 

[MY1GDSM]

My plan is to Use one of the oil heaters the adheres to the bottom of the oil pan and a block heater so both the oil and coolant is up to temp at start up...But it's gonna have to wait I just got out of the hospital & it warmed back up yesterday to about 40-50 so it not that big of a deal for now till it cools down again
As far as the heaters that go into a radiator line I'll Pass IMHO there not gonna work in my mind since the thermostat won't ever open to allow the coolant to circulate

I used one of those "heating pad" type stick on deals and stuck it to my oil pan, I actually thought about putting them on the engine, tcase and trans.

If your not upto putting a plug type heater in They make magnetic type ones the you can pull of and on
But in the end I don't believe that any of these other type ones and going to work any were near as good as A true engine block heater

Not a bad Idea on the trans and T-case though..

Hope all this is making sense I'll a little Luppy for the pain meds

 

[KGB Pilot125]

My plan is to Use one of the oil heaters the adheres to the bottom of the oil pan and a block heater so both the oil and coolant is up to temp at start up...But it's gonna have to wait I just got out of the hospital & it warmed back up yesterday to about 40-50 so it not that big of a deal for now till it cools down again
As far as the heaters that go into a radiator line I'll Pass IMHO there not gonna work in my mind since the thermostat won't ever open to allow the coolant to circulate



If your not upto putting a plug type heater in They make magnetic type ones the you can pull of and on
But in the end I don't believe that any of these other type ones and going to work any were near as good as A true engine block heater

Not a bad Idea on the trans and T-case though..

Hope all this is making sense I'll a little Luppy for the pain meds

I couldnt find one for my car in town and parking outside was temporary. Now she sits in the garage and stays nice and warm.!!

 

[pneumo]

How about one of the stick-on heaters on the gas tank? The problem is that E85 is really hard to ignite when it's cold, so warm the fuel. Just make sure the heater isn't too strong, you don't want to cause vapor lock or worse.