The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ECU corrosion, when is it too late?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Nuzzi

Proven Member
158
5
Jan 11, 2014
Torrington, Connecticut
I bought an ecu off ebay and of course the caps were leaking bad, there is a good amount of corrosion on surrounding leads/components. I cleaned it up with a toothbrush and baking soda/water mix, im just wondering if its even worth replacing the caps or if its already shot, its a 92/93 awd m/t turbo eprom so I would like to save it if possible. The seller "said" the car ran, my car isn't on the rd yet and the engine is apart so I cant test it other than just powering it on maybe. The board itself isn't peeling and the traces look intact, but until I remove the caps and clean it up more its hard to tell.

Here's a few pics, kinda hard to get in there with adequate light, the pics actually make it look worse than in person.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
Well, first off, I'd clean what I can and then break out the multimeter to test continuity of the trace from end to end (good) and any adjacent traces (bad). If you're still really unsure, get ECMTuning to look it over. It'll cost a little bit, but peace of mind is priceless LOL
 
I've repaired far worse in the past but you'll have to finishing cleaning off the conformal coating where the corrosion is. You'll also have to remove the heatsink to get at the corrosion under it and do a lot of desoldering to get at the electrolyte still under various parts.


You need to check the back side of IC110 to make sure the leakage hasn't eaten up the thin film resistors on the back or the pin mounting pads. If it has you'll need a good IC110 from another ECU.

Before you go any deeper, does it work now? Make sure there isn't an damage to the CPU or port expander (IC4 and IC5).

If you don't know that I'm talking about, send it to ECMTuning and let them fix it.
 
Sounds good, ill dig farther into it and see what i can find. There is one surface mount resistor with the very top layer peeled off. It wasnt a huge setback if its bad. Thanks.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top