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Ebay camber kit??

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From the auction it looks to be for both front and rear. RRE sells a similar front camber correction bushing, but I do not know if they are the same quality as I have never used either one. As for the rear camber, their isn't much to it. All it does is space out the control arm with longer bolts which help you adjust camber.

Give it a try and report back.
 
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PieEyedPiper said:
Ryuto, I purchased mine from who I believe is that vendor I and received the real deal SPC units. I sold them to a friend who is pleased with them. Never got a chance to use 'em before I picked up the SPC arms.
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Ok cool, good to hear. I might pick these up then!

PieEyedPiper said:
It's an eBay thing. Often the price is low to lure you and then you just make up for it with the shipping and pay a relatively fair price when it's all said and done.
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Yes they also do it to keep paypal from taking a higher percentage out of it when the auction is over.
 
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PieEyedPiper said:
Exorbitant, yes. But you're paying less than $100 for the whole car. Many spend more on just the front.

It's an eBay thing. Often the price is low to lure you and then you just make up for it with the shipping and pay a relatively fair price when it's all said and done.
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Haha, yea. Ive bought plenty of things on ebay where the shipping costs more than the item.
 
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i think i need more than .75 .. wil just buy some ingalls. i guess. unless these turn out to be good
 
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Those look fine as long as the metal is good quality but I bought the ingalls knockoff and it broke within the first week
 
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u think so?? and would anyone be able to adjust it. like at firestone. since they do it by computer
 
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Yes, I think so. After dropping your 2g on Prokits you can expect to end up with almost -2* camber. This is generally a tad much for a DD (surely this isn't a track car with Prokits, right?) and it's also likely that you will have uneven camber, such as -1.xx on one side and -2.xx on the other. Could be a difference of as much as half a degree.

So, say you end up with an average of -1.5*. You can now manipulate that by .75* in either direction. You may end up with camber such as -.75 (too little) or -2.25* (too much). I'm sure you can start to see why adjustment of only .75* is acceptable for your application.

Basically, you'd use this kit to make your camber even and around -1* to -1.5* for optimal results. Want to get a little aggressive? You can still dial in -2* or maybe even -2.75* depending on what you started with.

Other kits, almost all of them, actually, cause interference with the upper A-arm and the inner fender well/shock tower. That means they suspension arms are hitting the body of the car causing cosmetic and even mechanical damage, not to mention a loss in suspension travel. These eccentric bushing types do not suffer from this ailment. Firestone should be able to handle twisting a bolt to dial in camber.
 
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oh ok sounds good.. and what about the balljoint the one that helps with that does that work well?
 
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An adjustable balljoint is significantly taller than a stock unit so while it will adjust camber for you just fine, it will still cause physical interference. This particular type of setup is generally the least preferred.

You may also consider going without any front adjustment. Many do this to save the cost and hassle as the drop from Prokits usually leaves the owner with acceptable camber values.Why not get an alignment done and figure out where you stand. Then you can better determine how much adjustment you need, if any at all.
 
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