The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

easier to pull the block with or without the trans?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Well let's see, is it easier to take your pants off with or without your shoes on? Works the same here, might not be as fast, but definitely easier.
 
mavisky said:
Well let's see, is it easier to take your pants off with or without your shoes on? Works the same here, might not be as fast, but definitely easier.
Since it sounds like you know what your talking about I'll take it that was an accurate simile
 
I am wonding why all of you think that it easier to pull your block out with the trans on it. I am currently working on pulling my engine and have gotten everything unbolted and just need to get an engine hoist so I get pull it out, and was planning on just slidding the block over to the drivers side and then lifting it up, with out the tranny attached. Is there some sort of problem that I don't know about with doing this?
 
Yeah.. its a pain in the ass... its tough to get the block over far enough such that the input shaft clears. Honeslty, It took me about 20 mminutes to actually pull the motor and trans together. This is with the abs still mounted, and head still on the motor. it was easy as cake.
 
As someone who has done this (less than 2 hrs ago) I can say drop the tranny first and then take out the motor. On a 2G especially after the tranny is out the motor practically falls out. Getting it or a new one back in is also remarkably easier without the tranny attached. My dad got this wild hair up his ass that we had to get the motor out without dropping the tranny or taking it out period and while it did come out I know it would have come out much easier removing the tranny first. There is no way in hell that I'll ever get the new 6 bolt in with the tranny in so I will be taking it out tomorrow.
 
Well you can either pull the motor and trans together, or drop the trans first, and then pull the motor. Both have advantages and disadvantages. I have not tried to pull the motor with the 5-speed trans still in the car, as mentioned above you may find it difficult to move the motor far enough the the drivers side to clear the input shat of the trans. More interesting though would be realigning the input shaft through the clutch disk when reinstalling the motor

If pulling the motor and trans together it is helpful to have a "load leveler" for your engine hoist, as this will allow you to tip the motor (timing belt end of motor up, trans down) to get it all to clear the unibody. Without wrecking nearby wires, hoses, and such. Also if done with prybars and hammers kiss some engine bay paint goodbye.

In the end it all need to come apart anyway.
 
I found it easier to pull tranny out, then pull motor out. This was on my 2g, I had to do it 3 times. But installing the the motor and tranny together is easier, I thought. The only thing is you have to leave your pullys off this way in order to get the room for moveability.
So either way it's a bi***,
1. Rassling with aligning input shaft with motor already in.
2. Rassling with tight spot between fender wall and motor to mount the pullys and belts.

I found you have to push the motor about an 1.5" toward the radiator in order to get the tranny past the frame once the motor is hanging by the one motor mount and is resting on the water pump pulley.

So your looking at 2-3 jacks. 1 to hold the motor up, 1 to push the engine towards the radiator and possibly one for the tranny unless you bench press the bi*** onto the motor.


I preferred rassling with the close quarters mounting the pulleys and belts.

I prefer to install motor and tranny as one. :thumb:
 
I've done it several times in a 1G and once in a 2G. As long as you have an adjustable leveler with your cherry picker, both pose no problem.
 
definitiveno said:
44pirate, how about using a cherry picker?


Those directions are using a cherry picker as I was there to put it back in one time. :thumb: The easiest way to me is to drop the tranny and then pull the motor out. It makes things so much simpler when you go to reinstall things. There is nothing in the car to get in the way of moving the motor around and reinstalling the tranny is the same if you were doing a clutch job.
 
When i was doing my 6 bolt swap i managed to drop in the engine in 20 mins without unbolting the tranny but you have to get the engine at a certain angle.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top