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Dual intank fuel pumps

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BluemeanieTSi

20+ Year Contributor
470
1
Nov 17, 2002
Freeport, Pennsylvania
i started trying to figure out how to put dual pumps in the stock housing but that wasn't happening without major hacking. since it was my only housing i had i started looking for alternatives so i decided to build my own.

the housing cost me about 10 bux and 2 days to make, i still need to wire it.

here's what i started with but this ended up not working well due to return line placement.

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the housing isn't all that thick it was the thickest metal i could find at the local tractor supply company. i just cut a circle to match the upper piece and welded a support rod to it, then welded the inner ring piece for the gasket, test fit to make sure it sealed ok then started on the feed lines. they are 3/8th brake line i bought 3/8th brake unions and ordered 3/8th flare to 6 an fittings from summit. the housing cost me around 10 bux and the fittings cost around 15 total for that part.

(ignore the twisted screens the pumps weren't secured yet for this pic)

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after about a days work (i'm not much for planning things out) i realized i had no room for wiring or a return line. soooooo i started over

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the two 45 degree 6an hose ends clear the back seat with no modification following the factory feed lines. the "y" block is a BG (barry grant) fuel block i got from jegs for around 30 bux and it is 3/8th NPT, it comes with a pressure tap source that needs to be plugged (i see no need to put a gauge back there) the lines are 6 an then 3/8 to 6an 45 degree fittings for inlefts with a 3/8th to 8 an and 8 an line from then on.

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i kept the float for street car use, and i kept the gauge light crap just so i didnt' have to cut it apart. the return line is 3/8th and the vent is 1/4 brake line, i'll be using the factory feed hard line as a larger return line so i dont' have to run another line under tha car i'll use the existing one which i think is 5/16ths

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everything is soldered with plumbing solder and leak tested. here's a good shot of the flare to an fittings from summit.

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here's what i have so far, all the lines (not cut to length) and the filter i will be using (caution this filter is over a foot long) everything is 8an from the y block up including the rail. i will be using a magnafuel fuel pressure regulator as i was not impressed with the aeromotive one i had been using in the past.

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questions, comments, personal experiences......for reference i'm planning on an fp3065 for the setup at the moment.
 
looks good... as far as mounting the pumps.

where the 2g has the black rubber part that you tighten down to hold it in place. you could make something similiar to that but with 2 sides to hold both pumps.. then at the base of the rod weld on a nut so that you can bolt it on..


I can tell you fron experience a ziptie WILL NOT hold the pump in place. My friend tried 2 hose clamps and it pushed right off. there will be equal pressure aplied against the top of the pump as there is fuel pressure in the lines. i.e. with 50 psi of fuel pressure in the lines. there will be 50 psi of hydraulic pressure trying to force those pumps off.. you will deff. have to find a very solid way of mounting them.
 
>there will be equal pressure aplied against the top of the pump as there is
>fuel pressure in the lines. i.e. with 50 psi of fuel pressure in the lines. there
>will be 50 psi of hydraulic pressure trying to force those pumps off..

I absolutely agree with you that MUST attach the fuel pump in a SECURE manner, but lets not overstate this “pull off” problem. These pumps have outlet of around .25”, that is an area of .049 square inches. Using your example of 50 psi, that will give you 2.5 lbs of “pulling off” force…

Even if you give a more realistic fuel pressure of 70psi, you are still talking about only 3.4lbs. Unlike intercooler pipes, which do have a significant cross section, fuel lines do not suffer from similar loads.

Anytime you hit a bump, there will be a load on the pump much higher than anything caused by the pressure and that is why the pump MUST be secure!
 
the clamps on the lines are strong enough to keep the pumps from coming off, you can't attach anything to the bottom because the left pump bottoms out on a bolt inside the fuel tank the filter barely fits
 
I know a single in tank W-255 pump can go quite far. TurboSpoolins put down 6xxAWHP with his FP T67 with just an in-tank rewired Walbro 255lph F/P. That however doesn't underscore the ingenuity of your setup. It's very well done and once you finish polishing up some of it's design and start selling them, I would buy one in a heart beat. Good job. :thumb:
 
ill buy one if u make it, u seem to know how to make them very well and know the percise measurements. my email address is [email protected] , email me bro

what about a walboro 255 intank feeding into a walboro 255 inLINE and then to the rail
would that flow as much ase dual intanks or at least to accomadate 600+ whp
those numbers are what ill be looking for this spring.. thanx chris
 
Not sure if you can do this but is there a way you can tell if one pump went bad? Aside from obvisou reasons. Maybe install a switch somewhere or something with a indicator light letting you know that the pump is working and actually flowing. Not sure how you would do this though or if you have thought of it yet.
 
fuel pressure would indicate a pump failure, a low pressure warning light would be the only thing i can think of. right now i need to find a flathead (panhead) screw to replace the bolt thats in the tank
 
So,i'm not going to be able to dial back my fuel pressure below 42psi kurt?..I thought you said that it was a gauge problem?.. :confused:
 
a place actually produced these as well as a single replacement. They were made from 304SS and tig welded. Were very nice actually, i forgot who it was.
 
Nice find on the Dentsport, good to know if something stupid ever happens.

I can't see why they would not make a SS dual assembly.
 
yea , i wanna buy a dual setup but not spend over 200.00 , id rather make it myself , id spend 100.00 , that seems fair. im suprised that there arent any on the market already,
 
I saw a dual setup in a car a little while ago. One pump was external pump for a older style mustang I think (used out of tank pump) and the other was a standard 255 in the tank. One pump was just for the N2O.
 
shearer has a very nice designed one he plans to produce when he gets the time. Hes going to be concentrating on evo stuff first tho =|
 
BluemeanieTSi

How did you wire it up Through the top Im getting at.

I got a good deal on a crane external and want to run it. I want to make a sending unit aswell with just a pipe inside the tank. But want to keep the level unit.

Would the one in the drivers side be enough for the gauge?

Also The crane is smaller than a Walbro 255. Would I be able to run the stock pump and the Crane parallel with a gain? Im sure running the external after the stock would be useless since the stocker would restrict the flow to the Crane But not sure what would happen if they were run parallel.
 
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