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dsmlink or afc neo

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99 gst spyder

15+ Year Contributor
522
1
Jul 12, 2007
st. paul, Minnesota
ok i've made up my mind for a while now that should i go with dsmlink or should i go with the neo? i plan to go with the neo but i don't think that's enough for the best tune to my dsm, or will bring the most power to my dsm correct? i was thinking to spend a few extra hundred on dsmlink and to go with that, it'll bring me the most power to my dsm right? well, better then the afc neo correct?

i'm not planning to self tune the car but to bring it to a dyno shop to tune/dyno it for me, because i'm not really sure how to touch all of that.

to the dsmer out there that has the same mod like i do or about, usually made about how much whp or torque? the reason why i ask this is because i don't want to go this route if it doesn't bring me enough power...(looking for 350+ whp and torque...) with about 18-20psi.

planning to get some use pte 680cc inj. and walbro 190lph rewired....or do you suggest go with the walbro 255 lph hp with the regulator instead of 190 without regulator...i want to get the 190 b/c i don't want to invest in the regulator and is this ok to run with dsmlink?
will this be a good setup for a daily driver? don't plan on any more mod to the car after this set up....
plan to go to the track soon..

if i use dsmlink, do i have to tune the car once in a while, maybe every year or just one time setup is good enough?

any suggestion or anything is welcome
thanks
 
everyones idea of setups is usally different but at the same time most will agree that the Dsm link is the way to go because of the overall benifits of everything that it is capable of , as far as the HP that you are looking for I would go with the 255lph +the afpr cause its will help with tuning and 750cc injectors cause they cost the same as 680's :thumb: dsm link is like reflashing your ecu to whatever spec's you want but you can have all you base setting installed when you order it ................ and of course I might as well cover this now get a WB O2 this will also help with your tuning in either route you decide is best for you
 
I got rid of my AFC for DSMlink and I couldn't be happier. Either way you go it is going to be a good accomplishment to get 350+ to the wheels from a E316G it can be done but everything has to work together.

Once you get a baseline tune through DSMlink you are set to go. You only need to change the tune if you change parts or if you want to run race gas.
 
everyones idea of setups is usally different but at the same time most will agree that the Dsm link is the way to go because of the overall benifits of everything that it is capable of , as far as the HP that you are looking for I would go with the 255lph +the afpr cause its will help with tuning and 750cc injectors cause they cost the same as 680's :thumb: dsm link is like reflashing your ecu to whatever spec's you want but you can have all you base setting installed when you order it ................ and of course I might as well cover this now get a WB O2 this will also help with your tuning in either route you decide is best for you

i'm getting 680cc from a friend that's selling for cheap that's why i'm geting the 680cc but do you think it'll still be ok for 680cc?
i'm not getting a wideband o2 b/c planning to do a base dyno/tune at the shop witch they provide the wideband already....
 
It's going to be much safer, and make more power on DSMlink. It's worth the additional costs over the AFC.

you can log and change a huge variety of settings VS only being able to adjust fuel with an AFC.


It is also never bad to spring for a wideband 02 down the line just so you can monitor your o2's when doing pulls. We have new pricing on the AEM UEGOs which have a nice gauge you can mount to easily see the o2s anytime.

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Dsmlink without a doubt. You can get a better tune plus all the other features that dsmlink has.
 
As far as cams go I've been looking into that. If you are dead set on staying with the 16G then a set of HKS 264/264 will work best really. Or another companies cam that is equivalent. Going with bigger cams than than those look like they tend to try to make power beyond the rpm range where the 16G likes to work.

I still have stock cams and I'm right below 300 AWHP. I've seen dyno pulls of the 16G with 272's and it seems to cost you alot of the low and mid for mot much upper end because the turbo won't flow that high.
 
hedrick said:
If your going for big numbers like 500whp, then AEM EMS is what you want.

Dsmlink won't have a problem supporting that much power. There are multiple guys on Dsmlink forums with over 600whp and running 9's.
 
I agree on the link too, but with it you will have to get yourself a e-prom ecu to work with link. They can be found by looking on the classifieds on here. That is what I am doing with my setup right now but I have a 50 trim.
 
IMO combining cam grinds like that is a bad idea. If you are building a straight up street car on a 16g and that is what you'll be doing then I think 264's would be a good decision. However, if its going to see some track time and/or there's a possibilty of moving up in turbo size, I'd get 272's.
 
Cam selection depends a lot on what you want to do with the car and what turbo will be run, and how hard you are going to push that turbo.

A Big 16G's efficiency range seems to match up quite well to straight 264s but if you really want to push it for everything run it right on the very edge of its efficiency range (probably out of that range a good bit) then 272's can provide some top end gains. But for a solid torque and power band all the way across the tach in a daily driven 16G car 264's on paper look like the winner.

My car is a B16G 20psi daily driver and I'm right below 300 AWHP with stock cams but my low and mid are pretty solid. I think I will probably get a set of 264's for my car if I can come up on a deal on them.
 
I've read that too and I don't think it would be really bad. But I have not seen proven numbers to show exactly how they work with 16G turbo.

I mean RRE recommends that setup in general so it can't be to bad. I've just heard from a couple people that tune a lot of cars that a pump gas 16G matched better with the 264's
 
Here is a little something for ya. Mind you this test was done before FPs series of cams were being produced and they also lack and few other popular choices but you get the jist of things. You can always cross reference these cams specs yourself and compare/apply the data needed to decide what you want.

http://web.archive.org/web/20030601191312/automotosports.com/cam_test.asp




I thought there was another group that did cam testing but I couldnt find it right away as I just got off of work and an hungry. Ill post it when I find it later.
 
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