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DSMLink and MAFT questions on new engine tun e

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Jeror32

Probationary Member
9
0
Feb 17, 2005
Malone, New York
Unfortunately under high amount of boost I cracked the head on my 93 TSI. In replace I had a motor built from the bottom up with no spared expenses. My question is how to base tune the engine for its first start up. I have the following parts:
full exhaust, intake, evo3 16g, front mount, 550s, fuel pump, Maft v2.01 and dsmlink with all other obvious supporting mods. How should I set up the Maft and would it be easier to tune with the maft or dsmlink? My 2g maf was messed up and I went with the gm maf for venting purposes only. Let me know what everyone thinks.

Thanks for the help.

Ryan
 
Set the MAFT for the stock injectors and do all the tuning through Dsmlink. On the Dsmlink forums there are a few really good threads on how to calibrate the MAFT, using the adjustable airflow sliders in the Dsmlink software. Just using the base airflow settings will usually not give you the best results with the MAFT.
 
what fuel pump? ifyou are running a 255 or 255hp, you will overrun. matter of fact. this will mess with the tune quite a bit as stated in the above linked dsmlink posts. As for the cam gears. Leave them at 0 until you can get to a dyno to get them dialed in properly. also make sure the adjustment screws are tight, dont want those to slip, which ones did you go with?
 
They are fidanza adjustable cam gears and I believe the fuel pump is only a rewired 190lph and previousily my car was running high 12's and I never had any fuel problems, overrun, fuel cut etc. I was also running 1000cc injectors which was really stupid. They were put in by the previous owner. What is your take on how well I can tune my car myself to get it running? I will be bringing it to a dyno to get fully tuned by I'd like to be able to at least drive it with no major issues until I get a chance to do that. Any input is helpful. Thanks.
 
download the dsmlink user guide at the site, adjust the fuel for there provided table, leave the cams at 0. the car will be good to drive, but adjustment can be done. you can do some decent tuning without a dyno, so do some, that way the dyno time will be alot less and thus the cost will be less. get the idle and cuise issues resolved first then go into WOT, you can post somem logged .dat files at the link forums for other advise.
 
i am not a fan of runnning maft with link. i used to run that setup, and it was hell trying to get everything calibrated, so i just put an 2g mas.

and it was all great from there. also , din't resirculate because of how i got my piping setup for maft. i din't have a hole for returning air from the bov. but it din't do any changes by not recirculating. but then again every car is different.
 
I plan to calibrate the maft setup with a gm map sensor not to far in the future if I do find it to be far out of what it should be.

What do I need to set the translator to for baseline if anything? I read somewhere I need to set the base to 2? What does that do?
 
what you are trying to do is setting up your maft for stock injectors, that way you can tune with link, i don't have the manual with me, base 2 is 450cc base 1 is 440cc and base 0 is 430cc.
 
so pretty much what you do is : Base 2 idle 0 Mid 0 WOT 0 and that is 450cc and that's it . now tune your link. it depents what injectors you get you will set you global settting.
 
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