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dsm link and anti lag

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1995 gst

10+ Year Contributor
188
0
Mar 22, 2011
boulder, Colorado
I have been searching around and found dsm link is good for tuning, but i was woundering mostly about antilag, i want antilag but dsmlink is too expencive. also is antilag really bad for the clutch and will i just burn it out or will it take it?
 
I have been searching around and found dsm link is good for tuning, but i was woundering mostly about antilag, i want antilag but dsmlink is too expencive. also is antilag really bad for the clutch and will i just burn it out or will it take it?

Why would you purchase an advanced tuning system just for it's anti-lag feature? Also, looks like you're on the stock 14b so there really isn't a whole lot to spool up..... It sounds like you're just trying to impress your friends.. Just curious......:aha:
 
im thinking long term, i am in middle of doing bolt ons as we speak. im doing evo 3 16g fmic 600cc inject 225 fuel pump fpr wideband. im just thinking once i have those mods is it worth getting and does it eat the hell out of a clutch.
 
Read up my friend.. Basically anti-lag retards the timing at a set RPM point and adds x % of additional fuel which will ignite inside the turbo and create lots of small explosions as the fuel combusts, spinning the exhuast turbine faster and faster and building boost, all the while putting a tremendous amount of stress on the turbine shaft. Anti-lag is great for large turbos trying to build boost, but for small turbos a two step is fine in most cases and does not harm the turbo.
 
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16G and even 30R guys (like myself) are typically slower when using anti-lag as opposed to a 2-step.

A 2-step set between 5,000-5500 (depending on tires, track prep, power level, etc) usually works best for a 45-55lb/min turbo.

You need a BIG turbo for antilag to be beneficial.

On a side note, how do you plan on tuning your 16G setup? Link lite is cheap and effective. Why spend the money on the turbo and bolt ons if you aren't going to run it on decent software?
 
Dsmlink is worth it in itself for a long run not just for the antilag. 2 step would fit you better with a 14b or 16g as stated several times already.

My 2.4 with a 14b can build 3-5 psi on 2 step alone. also my 14b spools fully by 2500 anyways.

Should be about the same results with a 16g at about 3500 or so on a 2.0
 
If you're thinking long term, reconsider those 600cc injectors, they won't get you very far....

Ditto. I just finished setting DSMLink properly and adjusted my injectors perfectly, adjusted the TPS, the MAF g/rev and CombinedFT at idle to all the ideal numbers. Did my first ever WOT pull yesterday since I bought the car 2 weeks ago. The results were a 86.
7% InjectorDutyCycle with RC 660CCs @ 6700RPM. I did not pull till redline! I have an 16g.

Long story short; GET BIGGER INJECTORS.
 
Ditto. I just finished setting DSMLink properly and adjusted my injectors perfectly, adjusted the TPS, the MAF g/rev and CombinedFT at idle to all the ideal numbers. Did my first ever WOT pull yesterday since I bought the car 2 weeks ago. The results were a 86.
7% InjectorDutyCycle with RC 660CCs @ 6700RPM. I did not pull till redline! I have an 16g.

Long story short; GET BIGGER INJECTORS.

I'm guessing you mean 70% injector duty cycle? Which 16g? big, small or evo3?
What boost levels? What fuel pump? Rail pressure?
All these things come into play when we discuss injector duty, which should never exceed 80%.
But bottom line, if you want to make 300 horse, All of us here at tuners recommend at least 750's.
Again, with ECMlink, there is not reason not to go as big as you can, they are easily adjusted. Just as long as they aren't so big that they can't deliver a small enough amount of fuel for idle.. But there are guys idling perfectly on 1600cc injectors.
 
I'm guessing you mean 70% injector duty cycle? Which 16g? big, small or evo3?
What boost levels? What fuel pump? Rail pressure?
All these things come into play when we discuss injector duty, which should never exceed 80%.
But bottom line, if you want to make 300 horse, All of us here at tuners recommend at least 750's.
Again, with ECMlink, there is not reason not to go as big as you can, they are easily adjusted. Just as long as they aren't so big that they can't deliver a small enough amount of fuel for idle.. But there are guys idling perfectly on 1600cc injectors.

I'm still not sure which 16g I have. Can't get a clear view of the housing to read off it. Only I think I see is TDH05 which is 16g so that's all I know. My boost gauge showed 24-25psi. And ya, it was 86-87%.

I don't have an AFR reading in link because V1 does not allow ECU Inputs .. well at least I can't find how to do in my V1. I was just looking for knock. Found none but was only at a modest 16* timing at 6700RPM.

Anyways, let's no hijack OPs thread. I'm still learning myself. If what I said sounds off to you, shout me a PM I'd be interessted to further improve my knowleged of Link with you. <3 (No ho mo!)
 
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Something else to consider that I didn't see mentioned is traction. Unless you have sticky rubber and a well-prepped track, the only thing you'll get from a lot of extra boost at launch is tire smoke. You only need as much boost/power as you can put to the ground.

Ditch the anti-lag idea and learn how to work the clutch during launch. ;)
 
Something else to consider that I didn't see mentioned is traction. Unless you have sticky rubber and a well-prepped track, the only thing you'll get from a lot of extra boost at launch is tire smoke.

Ditch the anti-lag idea and learn how to work the clutch during launch. ;)

This is very true! I tried two-step on my 2g GST, 20G turbo and all I got was tires smoke. I can only imagine what would happen if I tried this with anti-lag where the turbo is actually spooling a decent amount. Work on your clutch work and you should be fine. Anti-lag is pretty much for rally cars as mentioned earlier because they race in dirt/snow where they are spinning and there is no load on the engine and no load = no boost.
 
I'm still not sure which 16g I have. Can't get a clear view of the housing to read off it. Only I think I see is TDH05 which is 16g so that's all I know. My boost gauge showed 24-25psi. And ya, it was 86-87%.

I don't have an AFR reading in link because V1 does not allow ECU Inputs .. well at least I can't find how to do in my V1. I was just looking for knock. Found none but was only at a modest 16* timing at 6700RPM.

Anyways, let's no hijack OPs thread. I'm still learning myself. If what I said sounds off to you, shout me a PM I'd be interessted to further improve my knowleged of Link with you. <3 (No ho mo!)

About that turbo, a 14g is TDO5H compressor cover. 18g and 20g I believe are as well.. might be wrong though.
If you take off your intake, a 14b will have single blade fins, and a 16g will have double blade fins (as in a tall one then a short one, staggered.)
 
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