The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G Dropped 30 year old gas tank to clean it, was nearly spotless inside, skip lining it?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

XC92

5+ Year Contributor
1,654
376
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New York
I don't believe that the gas tank on my '92 Talon TSi AWD has ever been dropped or cleaned, and since the car had sat for 5 or so years without being driven, I figured there would be a lot of rust, gunk, grime, etc., inside. Plus when I drained it after finally getting it in driveable condition a year and a half ago, what came out was orange-tinged. So I figured that when I had the chance, I'd drain, drop and clean it.

So I did, today. Except, the inside was basically spotless. There was a dollar coin-sized bit of loose rust on the bottom that I easily rubbed away with my fingers, but otherwise everything looked brand new inside (outside was a different story, but that's cosmetic), shiny sheet metal like it had just come from the factory. I didn't look at the upper inside surfaces, though. I have a boroscope so I'll use that tomorrow to have a look.

But one, is this normal? And two, is there any point in lining it at this point? I actually bought the POR-15 tank liner, along with their Metal Prep. And I did pour in some Delphi tank cleaning solution with 2 gallons of water and swish it around (I left it in as it was getting late and will drain it tomorrow). But I'm thinking that if after 30 years there no rust or anything bad in there, why bother with the liner? Agreed?

If I don't line it, anything I need to do besides thoroughly drain it of the cleaning fluid and dry it completely before reinstalling?

I did buy all new hoses for the filler, filler vent, return fuel and return vent lines, along with new clamps, gaskets, etc. I'll also clean the pump/sending unit, but it looked to be in good condition, and even the nuts on the 6 studs attaching it to the tank came off fine, after prepping it with PB Blaster the day before, and the studs look good.

Should I replace the strainer? It too looked fine. I will replace the fuel filter in the engine bay, and clean the injectors or have them cleaned.

I'm simply amazed at how good condition everything's in, internally.
 
If there’s no rust then I wouldn’t line it. Do figure out how to observe the upper inside surface that most often is above the fuel level. My truck’s tank is out right now, and the lower 2/3rds of the tank volume is grey metal; above that has a kind of rust acne. Not heavy rust, but I want it lined. Eastwood tank sealer kit arrives tomorrow.
 
I ordered a new strainer, Delphi, so unless the stock one seems in great shape, I'll use it. Weird that it's in such good condition though. These cars were reall well designed and built.

If there’s no rust then I wouldn’t line it. Do figure out how to observe the upper inside surface that most often is above the fuel level. My truck’s tank is out right now, and the lower 2/3rds of the tank volume is grey metal; above that has a kind of rust acne. Not heavy rust, but I want it lined. Eastwood tank sealer kit arrives tomorrow.
Yeah, I'll definitely check the upper part. But if it's just light rust then I don't know if liner is really called for. Some Evaporust and manual agitation should probably get rid of it. I got the POR-15 liner, $10 off so it only cost me $22. It's not returnable so I'll see if I can find someone who needs it.
 
I'll join the chorus: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

These cars are superbly designed. There are weak spots -- the ignition switch, the transistors in the ignition systems, probably a couple more that don't come to mind but overall, they're beautiful work.
 
I'll join the chorus: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

These cars are superbly designed. There are weak spots -- the ignition switch, the transistors in the ignition systems, probably a couple more that don't come to mind but overall, they're beautiful work.
Has anyone ever done a writeup on specifically why they're so well designed and built? I don't have a lot of experience working on many cars, just this and a couple of boring sedans.

As for weak spots, I'd add the manual transmission and front single piston brakes. Not terrible, just could be a bit better.

But even the gas tank's well built. Not only is it in great condition inside, but some years ago some idiots in a garage tried to lift the rear not with the diff but with the tank. It deformed, but actually bore the weight without rupturing or crumpling.

I wonder if they designed it for that, just in case, so it wouldn't crumple or tear. The best engineering takes into account adverse conditions outside of normal operating parameters and overbuilds for it.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top