Dripping Red Fluid from line

[psychbiker1966]

I started leaking red fluid today..Its dripping along this line. Can someone tell me if this is a transmission line or power steering line? The bolt right above is tight so I'm not sure why its leaking along here. Any Idea how to fix this??
The line is on the drivers side it is connected above the left tie rod and runs parallel to another line. You can just barely see where it bolts to in the second picture, right above the yellow dot is a nut which seems tight when I put some pressure on it. any help would be appreciated!

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

If I'm not mistaken, that looks like... power steering fluid? And part of your steering rack? There are no (shouldn't be anywho) transmission related lines that run back there.

 

[bryanwheat]

It is probably atf leaking from the power steering lines. These cars call for atf in the power steering system so it will be red. Check the pressure and return lines for leaks and the crossover lines for rust.

 

[YanDsm]

yes it's the power steering rack!

 

[psychbiker1966]

Thanks!

I added regular power steering fluid two months ago..maybe its too thin and causing it to leak?

 

[Ozone302]

Thanks!

I added regular power steering fluid two months ago..maybe its too thin and causing it to leak?

Thats most likely exactly why. I would flush the system and put some fresh ATF in there.

 

[bryanwheat]

Thats most likely exactly why. I would flush the system and put some fresh ATF in there.

That is not why is is leaking. If there is a hole it will leak with atf or power steering fluid. Obviously one of the metal lines has a hole in it.

 

[mattasi]

It's for sure the power steering, ATF fluid. It could just be the o-ring on that metal line that attaches onto the steering rack. If not that then the metal line itself has cracked.

 

[Ozone302]

If the fluid is too thin then it can leak. Personal experience on a brand new line with new o-rings on my last car. Put ps fluid in on accident and it leaked. Changed back to ATF and it was fine. But like said above, I would replace the o-rings on the high pressure line. Be prepared for a mess! Haha

 

[bryanwheat]

If the fluid is too thin then it can leak. Personal experience on a brand new line with new o-rings on my last car. Put ps fluid in on accident and it leaked. Changed back to ATF and it was fine. But like said above, I would replace the o-rings on the high pressure line. Be prepared for a mess! Haha

It is a high pressure system, any fluid will leak if there is a hole. This is physics at work here. If the system is sealed than it will hold any fluid that you put in it.

 

[Ozone302]

Not if the seals are worn and old. Thin fluid will leak easier than thicker fluid if there's seals on their way out

 

[mattasi]

If the fluid is too thin then it can leak. Personal experience on a brand new line with new o-rings on my last car. Put ps fluid in on accident and it leaked. Changed back to ATF and it was fine. But like said above, I would replace the o-rings on the high pressure line. Be prepared for a mess! Haha

You might need to go back and snug up those bolts that have the o-rings.

 

[psychbiker1966]

I loosened the bolt then tightened it as much as I could, added some correct fluid and now its leaking very badly in fact the car is acting like the lines have emptied..so I guess I need a new O ring and possibly a new metal line. Question...its super tight to get tools up in there, Will I need to remove the tie rod in order to make some space for the repair?

 

[mattasi]

I loosened the bolt then tightened it as much as I could, added some correct fluid and now its leaking very badly in fact the car is acting like the lines have emptied..so I guess I need a new O ring and possibly a new metal line. Question...its super tight to get tools up in there, Will I need to remove the tie rod in order to make some space for the repair?

Well if you were already able to loosen the bolt and then tighten it like you said, then no you won't need to take out the tierod. Good luck man, just take your time you will get it fixed.

 

[Ozone302]

Yeah dude just loosen it up and pop some new o-rings on. Youll be good

 

[psychbiker1966]

What size O rings would I need ?? Mitsubishi said they dont carry just the O rings so to take it out and try to get the same size at a parts place...

 

[mattasi]

Then they don't know what they are talking about. Go back to them with these numbers and shove it in their face .

MB166042 P/S Rack O-ring $1.14
MB192717 P/S Rack O-ring $1.03

You need both of these o-rings, they are different sizes.

 

[Ozone302]

What size O rings would I need ?? Mitsubishi said they dont carry just the O rings so to take it out and try to get the same size at a parts place...

Yeah take them out and get them at a parts store.

 

[psychbiker1966]

Well I got up bright and early today and went to work on the leaking power steering tube.. This MO is a B**** to get at!! I had to use 2 14mm wrenches with different angles so I could grab the bolt and muscle it 30 degrees at a time..(There is that little space). Then I came within a specific hair from a female anatomy of stripping the bolt when it got tight again halfway off. After liberal amounts of PB Blaster I got it moving again and finally got it apart. Now that I have it apart I have this question... I am worried that the leaking could be something other than the o-ring (like a tiny hole or crack) ..and if I bolt it back on tight,it might still leak. Worse yet I might be past the point or a redo as the bolt has had so much abuse already..So should I use extra sealant when I put it back together?? Should I maybe use teflon tape on the threads..or some silicone,or even PB Blaster to try to ensure it doesn't leak?? Thoughts??

 

[niddydsm]

if your worried about the line leaking just replace the line and O-rings atleast you'll be at ease knowing that your shit is brand new. I love new parts and if im not sure the easiest part can/will fix the problem I try to get rid of any doubt.

 

[psychbiker1966]

If it can be done without dropping the rack then I will replace the whole line, not sure I can get to it??

 

[psychbiker1966]

Today I visited the Houston Pic A Part and found a galant plus 2 DSMs that all had intact power steering lines that were an exact mach to the faulty one I have been trying so hard to get at on my car. Armed with my 2 different 14mm wrenches and a can of PB Blaster I went to work trying to remove the 1st one from a 96 model DSM. After 20 minutes of knuckle banging bolt striping antics, I went to a 98 model DSM to try again. This time GREAT SUCCESS..The bolt broke loose and came off without too much drama.. I crawled under the car to get to the other one and again it came loose after a brief fight. Woohoo I got them both off and the line practically fell off the car and hit me in the face. YES!! Now I will get some fresh O-rings from Itchybishi on Tuesday while I let the PB Blaster soak in for a few days...the other bolt should come off and I will be back in business.(Fingers crossed). One thing I was wondering ..How do I bleed or prime the system when I'm ready to bolt the line back on??

 

[bryanwheat]

There isn't much to filling it and bleeding out the air. Once you get the line on and get it sealed up put fluid in the reservoir. With the front tires off the ground get in the car and work the steering wheel back and forth all the way from lock to lock. Make sure that the reservoir has fluid in it. This will pull the atf into the rack and push out all the air. Keep doing it until it you no longer hear air in the lines and the fluid level no longer drops. From there you can start the car and work it back and forth with the pump turning. After doing that a few times check the fluid level with the engine running, and top off if necessary.

 

[psychbiker1966]

Amazingly enough the other end of the line is giving me fits as the bolt is seemingly rusted on there tight..Ive tried spraying it daily now with PB Blaster and it still won't budge. aarrrggg!!! I am ready to try swaping out the O-ring from the leaking side but I don't think that is gonna seal it up, I suspect crack or hole in the line.. (BTW will anti seize help me to unbolt it again if I do attempt this and it fails?) Alternatively I am ready to just cut the line off and pray I can get the bolt off with a socket without breaking the head off the bolt. So what would you do???

2hrs + Dremel cutting tool + Propane torch 3 heat cycles + 3 tools = FAIL

1. Add torque from heavy duty ratchet and neighbor to apply force with stabilization pressure on bolt via 2 extra hands = Success!!

Now contrary to earlier belief the line does wiggle in place with some finesse and there is no need to remove anything else to do the job. Mitsubishi reordered my new O-rings since they can't find the 1st set that was supposed to be there Tuesday. Hopefully this Friday we will be back on the road and leak free!

 

[psychbiker1966]

**************************************************************
Got the line back on after 7 hours under the car Sunday.. It was tough to get that last bolt back on and I had to lower the rack a bit and take out a bracket plus disconnect the outer tie rod. After all that I bent the rod about 1/4 inch and it lined up and went in straight. Anyway there are no leaks and I believe once I get all the air out it should quit making the whinning noise. I am still topping it up after every drive to work and it is better each time. Thanks for all your help!!