Does the Portfueler need the FCD?

[link16]

Okay, I got all of my engine in and the turbo installed. I have a t3/t4 57 trim turbo with the hahns portfueler fuel setup. I have a custom 3" downpipe with a tsudo N1 exhaust. Everything is wired correctly but it still seems like it is running like piss, minus the fact that it idles at 3.5k with the map sensor in and 4.5k with it out. I have Paul's FCD but my big question is: Does the Portfueler need the FCD?. Because, the Hahns runs off of its own reading of the tach and such.

On the ride home I lost all boost, I was building 5lbs but it stopped after a really loud discharge by the blowoff. I have NO boost leaks. I still need to run out and get a fuel pressure gauge to set the idle at 70psi at the FPR. The car runs and it is loud due to a 1/8th inch gap between the wastegate flange and the dumptube flange. we put the blue spring in the wastegate, but I have no idea I belive it is the 38mm Tial wastegate, not the high pressure one.

One REALLY incredible mechanic and I put the whole engine in with the turbo kit, NOTHING leaks at all. Please if anyone has had these problems tell me what you did. I am inbetween getting the stock ecu chipped or getting an ECM. Please help me, this is my baby but I am starting to develop a love hate relationship with it.....I love to hate it.

-EDIT: The timing is PERFECT, we turned it over 2x by hand like you are supposed to and it was perfect.
-Alex

 

[Locke]

Does the Portfueler need the FCD?. Because, the Hahns runs off of its own reading of the tach and such.

The Portfueler doesn't replace the factory fueling system, it supplements it. If you let the ECU cut fuel, then let the Portfueler somehow completely handle the fuel needs of the engine while in boost, you would have a horrible jumpy transition to boost.

The FCD allows the stock fuel system to continue supplying fuel, the Portfueler adds the appropriate amount of EXTRA fuel, while boosting.

it idles at 3.5k with the map sensor in and 4.5k with it out.

Why would you remove the map sensor? It measures vacuum, which combined with intake temp and the tach signal, is used to determine basic fuel delivery out of boost.

High idle is usually a large vacuum leak. Could also be a stuck IAC, or kinked throttle cable.

getting the stock ecu chipped

You are out of luck, there.

get a fuel pressure gauge to set the idle at 70psi at the FPR

Think 50psi, if you are using the factory ECU and injectors.



One other thing, not trying to be nasty or anything; if you believe your fuel pressure is not where it should be, and are wondering about needing an FCD and MAP sensor, why are you driving it? You should wait until you believe the vehicle is acceptably tuned for boost, before boosting.

 

[XMasta19]

+1...for having such a REALLY good mechanic help you, it seems you still have quite a ways to go and lots of reading and research to do. Hook your MAP sensor back up, then check all vacuum lines for leaks as a start. There is no "chip" for our ECU, and what the heck are you referring to when you say you're gonna get an ECM?

 

[link16]

Okay, first off you kindof ruined the not being nasty part. Secondly, what kind of tuning would I need if any because the car sounds like it does.

Can you adjust idle and if so how, I have done alot of research on this car and it has gotten to the point of overload.

Oh, and it is sluggish as hell when it comes to power and driveability.

I had to drive the car home btw because the Honda dealership It was at was starting to piss and moan about my car being there and using their lift space.

Oh and its a typo I meant PCM.

The throttle cable has just enough slack, btw.

 

[Locke]

Okay, first off you kindof ruined the not being nasty part.

Believe me, I didn't intend to. It is hard to put emotion and mood into writing sometimes. I apologize if I appeared tactless.

Secondly, what kind of tuning would I need if any because the car sounds like it does.

I would just try to get it to factory tune. Mostly fixing other issues. Most of the time, a steady high idle is because more air is entering the IM. Our cars meter any air that is in the IM, so first, I would try to determine how and where this extra unwanted air is entering from. Make sure the throttle plate is closing fully, check for leak at the TB gasket and MAP sensor, check vacuum lines, and make sure any removed lines are plugged properly.

The idle is non-adjustable.

 

[link16]

Believe me, I didn't intend to. It is hard to put emotion and mood into writing sometimes. I apologize if I appeared tactless.



I would just try to get it to factory tune. Mostly fixing other issues. Most of the time, a steady high idle is because more air is entering the IM. Our cars meter any air that is in the IM, so first, I would try to determine how and where this extra unwanted air is entering from. Make sure the throttle plate is closing fully, check for leak at the TB gasket and MAP sensor, check vacuum lines, and make sure any removed lines are plugged properly.

The idle is non-adjustable.

We have sprayed brake cleaner all around the fuel rails and the engine would surge if there were any kind of leak, minus the fact that ALOT of fuel would be pouring out.

I will check the throttle plate is closing fully, but how would i adjust that? What is the best way to test leaks? Brake cleaner or soapy water? Tomorrow I am fixing the 1/8" between the wastegate and the downpipe, that should make it quiet atleast.

If all else fails www.modernperformance.com has a PCM for the Neon 420A, I will check if that is compatible with the eclipse.

This is REALLY frustrating, and this is my first turbo install, so I have no idea how to tune.

 

[link16]

One more thing I forgot, we removed the A/C compressor, but the powersteering belt keeps flipping over and jumping off the pulley, we tightened it as much as we could. This is keeping me with the idea that my car hates me.

 

[link16]

Would a SAFC II fix my problem? What do I need to do to make it run well, right now it runs a little shy of my lawn mower.

 

[link16]

I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!...I was just doing so searching on shop sites and I was wondering if we perhaps forgot the other half of the EGR blockoff, the IM side. I stuck my pinky into the hole where it was missing, CI motorsports didnt send us the other plate. I will jery rig something in the morning, any tips?

 

[XMasta19]

As stated...vacuum leak. Good find. Note to self: removing egr, unbolt both sides, block off both sides.

 

[bullettdsm]

Would a SAFC II fix my problem? What do I need to do to make it run well, right now it runs a little shy of my lawn mower.

, I'll bet it does with that big hole in the back! Glad you found it . I make my own block off's by just cutting a piece of sheet metal to match cover for hole. I then drill out the bolt holes and seal with rtv. I think I used red rtv there.

MB

 

[BigRand]

Well I'm glad you found the problem....your big tip off should have been your boost gauge, while I"m sure you were paying attention to your extreamly high idle, however your gauge would have showed a huge vac leak like that at idle.

P.S. Guys with EGR block offs, how are you getting rid of your CEL lights and is anyone passing emmessions with it blocked....

 

[link16]

Well, my CEL goes off when it is completely sealed. I am also using the portfueler setup. when there is a leak that size the map goes crazy.

The analogy I used for my car and the turbo is: My ecu is like a man in a box, adding the turbo is the equivalent to putting a bobcat in the box with the man; he is going crazy trying to figure out what to do.

it makes me smile instead of think about how poorly it is still running.

with duct tape on the IM egr hole it idles normal but I have NO power. I think it is due to the 1/8th inch gap between the wastegate and the downpipe. or my fuel pressure is off....If this is not the problem please let me know.

-Alex

 

[bullettdsm]

I put my egr back on for emissions. There is a resistor out there that sometimes works and some times doesn't. Gotta search for the thread though.

MB

 

[Blackclipse620]

I just blocked off my egr a week ago and i have installed the resistor. I searched 2gnt.com and found where to get the resistor. You can find it at www.digikey.com the part number is 1.2KW-10-ND . Its only like 49 cents. just tap it in to the plug that goes to your egr. Again, as stated in above post, not sure it will work for everyone(not sure why it wouldnt) but it has worked for me.

 

[link16]

Actually, I know why my CEL doesn't really get affected; I have my FCD 12v source tapped into the EGR. Anyways, I will let you all know if this exhaust gap was the culprit for my zero power.

 

[link16]

Okay, here is the deal. We figured out part of the problem, we just teed into the other FPR, that was dumb but it is fixed now. The car idles at the normal range but it fluctuates from 0 rpm's to almost 2k rpm's, not in a steady way but it'll die than kick up. I have idle psi set at 60psi, under partial throttle it goes to 50 than at 6k+ it is at 70psi.

The car shuts off if you push the clutch in while driving. The car also builds 8lbs of boost on an 8lb spring but has no power, almost like towing a boat. It also misfires at 4k+ rpm's.

I am going to call hahn tomorrow but I am sure someone has had similar problems. My mod list is in my profile but its nothing extraordinary.

Thanks in advance to anyone that helps.

-Alex

 

[Locke]

Why is your idle fuel pressure set at 60psi?

 

[link16]

I figured adding a bit more was okay, but I was wrong. I put it back down to 50 psi as hahn says, but it still is running like crap.

I hate to say it, but could my timing be off? We did it all perfectly but I guess it wouldn't hurt to check, where do I have to tap a hole in the timing cover to see the TDC notch?

When it is set at 50psi, hahn says that at higher levels it gets up to 75psi, it never passes 63psi


-Alex

 

[BigRand]

Yeah I connot figure out why you would need to run such high fuel pressure using the hahn porterfueler stuff....Have you tried dialing your fuel preessure back down to 43.5psi and seeing if that has any benifits to your current problem?

 

[link16]

Yeah I connot figure out why you would need to run such high fuel pressure using the hahn porterfueler stuff....Have you tried dialing your fuel preessure back down to 43.5psi and seeing if that has any benifits to your current problem?

I have not gone below 50psi yet, do you think that would be my problem?


I put new NGK plugs in, when I took the old plugs out especially in cylinder one it was dripping with fuel, but that was before I realized my problem with 2 FPR's, so it was at 50psi.

Do you really think I should be running around 40 psi?

What other things could be my problems. My car leaks no liquids, and has no boost leaks. I just redid all of my vacuum lines so they should be leak free. I feel bad my poor engine has to deal with all this crap before it ever sees glory days.

Everything is just stacking up, nowadays I wish I had JE 12.5-1 pistons.......

-Alex

 

[link16]

I toned it down to 43psi, I had no luck with better results. It is now backfiring more than before.

Vac is at a max of 12 at idle.

The car cannot even find idle after you drive it.

 

[link16]

I don't know what to do.

Okay, I hooked a monster tach up to the tach adapter that is supposed to feed into the portfueler, the tach red half of what my rpm's were at. Why? and is that affecting the hahns?

Chambers 1 and 4 both have black spark plugs, and Chambers 2 and 3 have perfectly clean spark plugs. I do not know how to fix this, well, without spending a million more dollars.

Hahn says to keep fp at 50 psi at idle. After I get done driving it around the block, the idle bobs between 250 rpms to 1500 rpms.

Vac at a steady idle is 15.

I have had it with this car and the engine, I have tried everything and still am lost. I have learned my lesson; forced induction is not always the way to go. But, seeing as how that is the way I have went, lets make it work.

The guy that races the eclipses on pinks is going to listen to me and tell me what he thinks, he lives in FL and well I don't but my uncle is his supervisor. I will also wait until 2pm monday to call Hahn and yell at them that they gave me a defective something.

Lets get ol' Alex on the road. My plugs are gapped at .025 right now, and the spark seems to be blowing out at 4-5k rpm's and I am building 10psi but feel no power to go with that number.

Alex

 

[link16]

All problems have been solved, Thanks guys. Now that all of my quirks have been worked out, it is time for me to break her in.

 

[Locke]

Glad to hear it. Happy boosting.