The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Dissatisfied with alternator relocation kit

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RoasT BeeF

20+ Year Contributor
2,139
22
Jul 7, 2002
Loveland, Colorado
I installed the kit, and the alternator pulley is rubbing on the frame rail. I am running the belt on the outside ribs of the crank pulley. According to Jay's website the belt can be run on either set of ribs by simply moving the spacer on the lower bracket. I messed with it for about an hour today and it seems to be impossible to run it on the inside ribs. Sure I can move the alternator over so that it lines up with the inside ribs on the crank, but the water pump pulley never will.

Besides that the kit doesnt seem very ridgid. With everything bolted up tightly I can still wiggle the alternator around. Also, the tensioner rod digs into the alternator case everytime I turn it. Overall I have to say this is a poorly designed piece. Pity :toobad:
 
Last edited:
Drove my car around the block today and the alternator belt was squeeling BAD. Took it back to the garage and decided to just move the alternator back to its original location in the front. So I pull my intake manifold off and as soon as I touch the alternator it falls down! WTF It appears the lower bracket that the alternator mounts on has broken, in 2 pieces. Here are the pics...
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Just to add, my alternator was adjusted so far out that I couldn't get the belt tight. It was at the very end of the threads. And of course, the adjusting rod was hitting the alternator. IF this happens to you, try Dayco belt part # 5040330. It's a little bit shorter. I went with a 5040325 and definitely won't use that one again. WAY too tight and there's no adjustment to make it any looser. Just some fyi. Hope it helps.
 
^Yep.

I just sent my aluminum one in to Jay to exchange for the steel one. Get in touch with him and ask him for the steel version as a replacement since yours broke. This is a known issue with some of them. And others have been just fine with the aluminum version.

Was your bracket broken or not? I'm wondering if he'll exchange a perfectly good aluminum one for a steel one.

I have an unused aluminum one i've had on my shelf for a few years because I've always questioned about the strength of the aluminum.
 
Mine was unused. I bought the kit a while ago and have read about a couple people who've had them break. That was enough for me to just exchange it before it has the opportunity to break.

My brother's been running the aluminum version on his car since it was put back together last year. Granted, he doesn't drive it that often or that hard, but no issues yet with his.
 
His problem was the alternator. Some rebuilt units use a different type of nut and shaft. It will rub if it isn't the OEM alternator. When it hits, it will break the relocation arm since it is designed to support the alternator, not the shift of the engine vs. the frame. Been running one for two years without issue.
 
so, i have a 92 awd tsi with no p/s, no a/c and the alt relocated. putting the car together, i also needed to have the belt ride on the inner pulley, otherwise i would be within 1/16" or less of the frame.

digging through my totes of stuff last night not even looking for anything dealing with the WP, i found a pulley off the 4g64 i pulled from a 93 awd summit a couple years ago. it was labeled "rear water pump pulley" (i love that i tag EVERYTHING). the wheels started turning, so i took it with me to check out on the car. sure enough, its the same rib count, and lines up with the inner pulleys.

the only difference is the diameter, its oinly about 60% of the original pulleys size. i intend on trying it out, and seeing if i can find a mitsu part # soon. ill try and get pics of it asap
 
Negative, if anything the water pump will be the only thing overdriven by about 35-40%.

This is purely for the water pump, so that with an alternator relocation kit, you could run the alt on the inner belt on the harmonic balancer. In my case, w/o power steering and a/c, I will only need one belt for my entire accessory drive.
 
You need to get the right pulley for your alternator. The factory pulley and nut will give you 1/2" of clearance. If it is a rebuild alternator, chances are they used a new pulley and nut that are not factory spec.
 
Strange, because I bolted a bad factory alt up and found to have tons more room than the new reman I installed (on my talon. I ended up grinding down the pulley and nut to minimize the rubbing when under throttle
 
Yea I checked after you mentioned that. All the same for mine. But yea with this pulley it'll be perfect, I just prefer the clearance. id probably be OK on the outer pulley but since I found a factory part that works I'll roll with it.
 
got some pics of the pulley and how it roughly looks on the motor. should work perfect!

i cant find a part number, but like i said, its off a 93 awd summit van. onto the pics!
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
figured id report back with some installation info. pulley will work great.

just make sure that you have the two timing cover bolts that go behind the water pump to hold it out of the way. i cut mine into a two piece and without the bolts it would rub the pulley and belt. other than that, should work perfectly
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top