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did not pass smog 95 GSX, too high hydrocarbons

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ApexVIII

15+ Year Contributor
812
5
Jan 12, 2008
Modesto, California
does any one have any suggestions on what to fix? the car only has 3" TBE with a cat, and a k&N air filter.

all suggestions are welcome!


thanks!

Edit: when i sea foamed the car, at idle, as soon as smoke came out of the tail pipe it started smoking from the turbo also. i didn't hear any exhaust leaks though



Edit: 1/31/08 fail smog again... the hydro carbons were 163 this time so a little higher. the guy said to try a new o2 snesor.
 
This is a driving (dyno) test, my hydrocarbons are high under acceleration. I was thinking of swapping out my MAS with someone else's but I don't know anyone with a DSM. I guess I could order one from the dealer, swap it out to test and then return it. :D

You don't need to get one from the dealer. I think On Green Performance sells them for $99. I think I got mine from Diamondstarmotorsport.com - Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, Dodge Neon SRT-4. Look around. See what is available in the classified ads if you want.

On your other comment, my reply still stands. I would look those web sites up and see what you can find. I know that ongreenperformance should have them available.

Once you get one on hand, try it out and let us know how it goes. When my mass failed, I was getting 5 miles per gallon. But, then again I really messed it up. This was several years ago when I wanted to clean my air filter and intake pipe (yes, I soaked it). If you have any questions - don't hesitate to ask.
 
Wow, I don't even know what it's like to have to worry about smog, and noise, and all that fun stuff...Bastrop, TX has NO regulations other than the basic exterior stuff. I nearly fell off my chair when I read that a BOV can fail you!

But I've heard about that fuel additive too. Austin has smog. A lot of people I know live by that stuff.
 
Wow, I don't even know what it's like to have to worry about smog, and noise, and all that fun stuff...Bastrop, TX has NO regulations other than the basic exterior stuff. I nearly fell off my chair when I read that a BOV can fail you!

But I've heard about that fuel additive too. Austin has smog. A lot of people I know live by that stuff.

Yeah, emissions control is a B*tch. My car has been off the road for months because of it.
 
My gas millage is pretty bad. Around 16 MPG. I have a gauge that hook up to my narrow band front O2. It cycles at idle but its erratic. When I cruise it also cycles and is erratic. At WOT the needle just maxes out on the rich side.

How can I check whether it's switching between open and closed loop properly? Pocketlogger?

Pocketlogger is the best way, basically you need to know what the computer itself is seeing because that's really all that matters to it. You need to see if coolant temps are going over 180F and see what the O2 sensor values look like when graphed. You'll also be able to see what kind of airflow readings you're getting at various operating conditions, so you'll have a better idea of the MAF's condition.
 
Pocketlogger is the best way, basically you need to know what the computer itself is seeing because that's really all that matters to it. You need to see if coolant temps are going over 180F and see what the O2 sensor values look like when graphed. You'll also be able to see what kind of airflow readings you're getting at various operating conditions, so you'll have a better idea of the MAF's condition.

Yeah I know. The only reason I held off on buying Pocketlogger is because I plan to go with DSMlink when I get my fuel setup. But unfortunately I need to find out why my care keeps failing. I've been looking for used Pocketlogger package with PDA but I haven't been able to find a decent set. I guess I'll keep looking.
 
Seeing as how i just got my state vehicle inspectors lisence yesterday, I'll help you guys out as much as possible. first off the two speed idle dosen't test the cat, a bad cat will produce more nox but not having a cat might affect the other numbers, and the tsi only tests hydro carbons and co. if you failed by a small amount check out the tune up stuff (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter) and check your o2 sensor if it looks as old as the car good idea to replace it. also my 95 gsx failed its last inspection, rich at idle lean at 2500, when i put a new fuel press regulator on it passed if you have an aftermarket one check to see if its set to factory pressure and if your check engine light is on find out why and fix that it usualy is directly related to emissions also if possible you want to get the car hot (running in closed loop) and have the test done asap, it dosn't make a difference if you have the car red hot but it sits in the parking lot for 2 hours before the test
 
Hmmm thats funny.. I run open downpipe and am deleting my EGR and charcoal canister.

Hehe

Missouri has emissions though. All the people just pay a shop to pass them though. I take it you can't do that in California?

You can pay them off...Finding someone willing to do it is another thing because they risk losing their license. California smog rules are pointless if you ask me. The best thing you can do is to save everything stock on the car (if you bought the car stock, that is) and restore it back to stock condition before you test. Of course, do a standard tune up as well. If you have anything aftermarket that they notice, I believe that it's an automatic fail on the visual end if I'm not mistaken...Even if it said "50-State Legal" when you bought it. Some stations are more lenient than others.
 
You can pay them off...Finding someone willing to do it is another thing because they risk losing their license. California smog rules are pointless if you ask me. The best thing you can do is to save everything stock on the car (if you bought the car stock, that is) and restore it back to stock condition before you test. Of course, do a standard tune up as well. If you have anything aftermarket that they notice, I believe that it's an automatic fail on the visual end if I'm not mistaken...Even if it said "50-State Legal" when you bought it. Some stations are more lenient than others.
only the big cities in missouri have emission stations . the small towns dont worry about it . i dont know if it will work for you in cali but i just moved down to MO from cincinatti and they do the same idle & 2500 rpm tests ,they only do the pipe tests on obd 1 and older. i passed with V-POWER 93 octane and a set of platinum +4 plugs . newer cars get the ecm scanned for codes . if there are none present the car passes . BTW my cat was hollow ! !
 
After reading all of these post, all I can say is I am glad I live somewhere that I do not have to worry about that. It seems that it would be a big headache.
 
First question I have is if this car is a true OBD2 car. Just cause its a 95 doesn't mean its OBD2. Find out the production date and see if it has a rear O2 sensor (behind the cat). If it was built after 10/94, take a peak under the car for that rear O2 sensor. The only reason I say this is b/c when I had my car tested, I had everything stock except intake, 1G BOV, and full exhaust w/ a hi-flo cat. I passed the visual and the two speed test. I ended up failing b/c the station connected to the OBD2 port on the drivers side and the car never entered closed loop. Well here is something interesting on the OBD2 Mitsubishi's, you have to go to the dealer to have them use their scan tool to force the ECU into closed loop. No matter how long or the how you drive the car the ECU will never enter closed loop. Once they use their scan tool and force it, they do the drive cycle to test each emission system for failure. If something is wrong, it would surely pop up during this forced closed loop. I had it done thru the dealer and it cost 150, they force it into closed loop and do the drive pattern. BTW, the drive pattern can take up to an hour. And it can not be shut off. Meaning when they are done and no light comes on, they can't shut it off and you have to get down there and take it to the smog station to test. Never turn it off until the test is done. Since the guy remembered me, all he did was connect it to his machine to check I was in closed loop. He passed me after that. Don't know why the Mitsubishi ECUs are like this but it's stupid and only the original scan tools can do this. No aftermarket scan tool can force it into closed loop. They can tell which tests have passed or if the fuel control is in closed loop, thats about it.:thumb:
 
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