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did my car just walk? p0335

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Outdorsman

Proven Member
338
0
Oct 17, 2012
Las Vegas, Nevada
Cps malfunction.

What causes it? My car had a few issues and then this came. I was receiving missfires in cylinder 3 for a couple days noe and it fixed itself. Anyway I've been hearing a clicking sound from the engine which I assumed was lifter tick. Now I read it could be the.crank. also when I press down the clutch, it makes a click, its noticeably loud. The clutch feels like its sticky too. It goes up slowly. My has been leaking oil from the valve cover but I stopped it. Oil light is on when the key isvin the on position. I assume thats nirmaoDid my car crankwalk? If so that would be a tragedy since I'm 18 and this is my car that I worked for.


Currently the car doesn't start at all.I always assume worst case scenario. Just preparing for the worst.


Edit: I'm going to try switching out the CPs and check for play. If that doesn't work then idle.
 
If you car does not start at all there is three things you need to check.

1. spark
2. fuel
3. timing

If you have verified all three of those and your car is still not firing. You need to do o a compression test. Followed by a leak down test. This will then tell you if your engine has internal damage.
 
If you car does not start at all there is three things you need to check.

1. spark
2. fuel
3. timing

If you have verified all three of those and your car is still not firing. You need to do o a compression test. Followed by a leak down test. This will then tell you if your engine has internal damage.

I probably should have mentioned that I checked those already. Timing is on spot, fuel is being delivered, spark is being delivered. The car doesn't even crank, I can hear the starter click but other than that nothing else is happening. I got the p0335 for the CPS which is why I assumed worst case scenario of crank walk although I hope its not the case since I've heard usually 99% of the time it isn't Cwalk.


I don't believe a compression test or leak down is in order either way, the car doesn't crank so no way of Compression testing it. Leak down test is possible but I know the bottom end as far as leaks go is fine because I would have hear something blow. Plus I don't have access to a leak down tester, I doubt any results from that would be beneficial at this point since it doesn't crank. Anyone else would like to chime in if I'm incorrect?


Also to be clear, the car will not start with the p0335 code on. I've read around and it has nothing to do with those no-start conditions. I believe its to prevent damage or something? I don't know but I know with this code on it will not start.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You have a CPS located on the opposite side of your cams for a 97+ engine. You don't have a crank position sensor located at the lower sprocket on the crankshaft. There is no way for you to know that you have crankwalk with that. Test and replace your CPS accordingly.
 
You have a CPS located on the opposite side of your cams for a 97+ engine. You don't have a crank position sensor located at the lower sprocket on the crankshaft. There is no way for you to know that you have crankwalk with that. Test and replace your CPS accordingly.

Isn't that the CAS:hmm: I've had the CAS malfunction and it is a completely different code. CPS = Crank Position Sensor and CAS = Cam Angle sensor.
 
I've got a couple of sellers for a longblock ready to sell me their engines LOL. Its just I've dumped so much cash into this machine that its past the point of keeping LOL. I've been trying to sell it for the past 2 months to no avail. I will do what you said tomorrow since the car is at another location because it doesn't move anymore.
 
Well the 97+ CAS gives the ECU signal for the crank position as well (that is why you have to set ignition timing to 5 degrees BTDC).


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/392708-ok-97-cas.html

***EDIT my bad, you are right you do have a CPS in the original location.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/396227-cps-install-help.html

95-99 Have the crank position sensor in the same place, just the cam angle sensor is different on 95-96 , 97-99. only a 1g sensor has both CPS and CAS in one.
 
might be just your crank shaft sensor or cam shaft sensor . unplug the battery or reset the check engine light and see if it ill start i had that problem bout a year ago
:rocks::hellyeah::thumb::aha:
 
might be just your crank shaft sensor or cam shaft sensor . unplug the battery or reset the check engine light and see if it ill start i had that problem bout a year ago
:rocks::hellyeah::thumb::aha:

tried it, even when the CEL is not illuminated, I hook up the scanner and it reads it p0335. I erased it and it still reads the code, I unplug the battery and it still reads the code, its just no longer illuminated. This car has been a curse to my family... I'm going to try and have it towed to my house tomorrow. The fact that no matter what I do, the code still reads is what freaks me out.
 
some times it does read it after u clear it try to start the car when its cold and see what happens
good luck hope its the sensors
 
going to check it out and swap in a new CPS.


Could the ecu do this?

Well ####, i changed the sensor and nothing.

I tried hitting the starter to see if it would work and no luck, it just clicks a lot when I turn the key, sometimes it doesn't click at all unless I press the gas pedal.
 
Try to jump the car. Even a car with CW will still try to turn over. The clutch depression issue could be a bad slave cyl. The best way to check for cw is to get a pry bar and pry between the harmonic balancer and the block(dont be too aggressive with it). If you get lateral movement, you might be up shits creek.
 
By jump the car you mean to jumpstart right not roll it and start it manually? I tried recharging the battery but its not dead. All I hear is the click from the starter and then it stops unless I put the gas pedal in, then it begins to click again. I was told my neg battery cable was smoking
 
Clean your terminals on your battery, you will have to probably jump the car. Check your clutch master cylinder fluid/rebleed if you need. It looks like a combination of problems that you have. Don't give up and part it out, you haven't really spent enough time check everything over.

If you are really worried about Crankwalk you should have been prying on the harmonic balancer 10 posts ago. People keep on telling you to do it, but so far you haven't and said anything about it (so I am assuming you haven't checked it).
 
Clean your terminals on your battery, you will have to probably jump the car. Check your clutch master cylinder fluid/rebleed if you need. It looks like a combination of problems that you have. Don't give up and part it out, you haven't really spent enough time check everything over.

If you are really worried about Crankwalk you should have been prying on the harmonic balancer 10 posts ago. People keep on telling you to do it, but so far you haven't and said anything about it (so I am assuming you haven't checked it).

I used my hands to move it in and out and what not, had no play whatsoever.(did it while replacing the sensor). I forgot to mention that haha. I'll clean the terminal and see what happens. I still get the code p0335, I heard with that code on, the car will not start however no one has told me if it will still crank or not. As of right now, its not cranking.
 
Good, its not a dead battery. Try a few things:
1. Pull the starter and check for gear damage
2. Ensure that you can turn the motor manually
3. I have never heard of a ground wire smoking, but check all your grounding connections
4. Check your fuses
5. Check lateral movement of the crank

Clean your terminals on your battery, you will have to probably jump the car. Check your clutch master cylinder fluid/rebleed if you need. It looks like a combination of problems that you have. Don't give up and part it out, you haven't really spent enough time check everything over.

If you are really worried about Crankwalk you should have been prying on the harmonic balancer 10 posts ago. People keep on telling you to do it, but so far you haven't and said anything about it (so I am assuming you haven't checked it).

This brings up another thought, try unplugging the clutch sensor(found above the clutch pedal). Cars with this plugged in will not try to start if it detects that the clutch isnt depressed.
 
Good, its not a dead battery. Try a few things:
1. Pull the starter and check for gear damage
2. Ensure that you can turn the motor manually
3. I have never heard of a ground wire smoking, but check all your grounding connections
4. Check your fuses
5. Check lateral movement of the crank



This brings up another thought, try unplugging the clutch sensor(found above the clutch pedal). Cars with this plugged in will not try to start if it detects that the clutch isnt depressed.

Did that free mod a month ago LOL. And I have been keeping up maintenance with the car.

Fuses are good, I can turn the motor manually with the ratchet. Will do the rest tomorrow. Any other suggestions to add to the list are welcome.
 
its your starter dummy

if your starter is just clicking but your battery is putting out 14.5v then your starter is not working.

connect a wire directly from the solenoid on the starter to the + terminal on your battery, if it continues to only click then you need a new starter. when you turn they key it should be whirling and cranking.
 
but why does it give me the p0335 code? I will change the starter tomorrow, another 50-150 bucks into the car :/. Does it give me the p0335 because the car doesn't crank thus not allowing the crank sensor to detect the crank or whatever it does?
 
When measuring end play on the crank use a dial.

But sounds like your starter if its not cranking.

Have you tested the harness leading to the CPS?
 
:thumb:Here is my Suggestion:

I had the same problem twice with my car. The first time It was clicking but not cranking so I hit the starter slightly about 3 time and then told my friend to turn the key and it cranked so it was my starter that was bad because the second try without hitting it it would not crank. The second time it was clicking but not cranking I did not know if it was my alarm energy cut off or the clutch sensor so I just connected a cable from the smaller cable in the starter solenoid and I would touch the positive side of the battery and it cranked (I still have the cable as back up). After checking everything I found out it was my clutch sensor so I disconnected it and my car cranks perfectly without the clutch being depressed.

My suggestion is, before you go spend money buying a new starter, get a cable and connect it to the solenoid of the starter and jump the starter with the battery and see if it cranks. You can leave it like that for a few days if it works (the only thing is u have to get in the car, turn the key to on and then open the hood and start the car from there every time LOL and make sure the car is in neutral)or you could also set up a push-start button for now... and for your info, the starter at advance or autozone is only about 60-70 bucks.

GOOD LUCK
 
What type of cable exactly, this guy has never changed a starter in his life but has rebuilt his head 2 times over... haha.
 
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